F27 
.M8H74 

1879 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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IF YOU AKE GOINQ 



MooBehead Lake, Kan^ Jey Lake, Mount Desert, Poland Springs, 

Boothbay, Oastine, Eastport, Bethel, Andover, Gorham, 

Bridgeton, Mount Pleasant, or to any other 

point in the STATE OF MAINE, 

YOU WILL FIND THE MOST CONVENIENT KOUTE VTA 

THE EASTERN RAILROAD. 



It is also the Shortest and ONLY LINE WITHOUT CHANGE OF 

CAES from Boston to Crawford and Fabyan's, through the 

White Mountain Notch, 

And for Wolfboro', Intervale, North Conway, Glen House, Bethlehem, 
Profile, and Jefferson. Swarapscott, Marblehead, Mnnchester-by-the-Sea, 
Magnolia, Gloucester, Rockport, Pigeon Cove, Salisbury, Rye and Hamp- 
ton Beaches, Plum Island, Isles of Shoals, Old York and Newcastle, are 
reached only by this route. 

PULLMAN PALACE CARS 

On day trains, Boston and Portland; and SLEEPING CARS, Boston 
and Bangor, on night trains. 

Observation and Palace Cars on White Mountain Trains. 

Through and Excursion Tickets on sale at all principal Offices. 

Send for Excursion List and Summer Time Table. 
DEPOT IN BOSTON ON CAUSEWAY STREET. 



JOHN HORNBY, LUCIUS TUTTLE, 

Master of Transportation. G. P. ^ T. Agent. 



THE MAINE CENTRAL 



Is the great Railway Thoroughfare of the State, and forms, with its own 
line and branches, the only rail route between 

PORTLAND AND BANGOR, 

Brunswick, Bath, Richmond, Gardiner, Augusta, Skowhegan, Waterville, 
Belfast, Dexter, and Farmington, and is the best and most direct route to 
AUBURN AND LEWISTONy and all parts of the State of Maine. 
It connects with all trains from and to New York, Boston, Worcester, 
Rockland, Houlton, Woodstock, Fort Fairfield, Caribou, St. Stephen, Fred- 
ericton, and is the most importa»t link in the line betweeit 

BOSTON, ST. JOHN, AND HALIFAX. 

It offers the best facilities for reaching all of the resorts of Maine east of 
Portland, and is the only route whereby 

MOOSEHEAD LAKE, 

With its beautiful scenery, delightful sailing, and excellen-t fishing and 
hunting, may surely be reached the day following departure from Boston. 

Tljr PnilTC P'roHi Boston is via morning trains of Boston & Maine 
• nt nUU I L or Eastern Railroads, and from other points via any 
route to Portland, thence by noon train of Maine Central Railroad to Ban- 
gor, and stop over night; or take the Night Express Train, with Pullman 
Sleeping Cars attached, leaving Eastern Railroad Depot at 7 P.M., and 
Portland soon after 11, arriving in Bangor about 6 the following morn- 
ing, connecting with Bangor and Piscataquis Railroad for the Lake. 

LAuUnulUH IIui\lIO Sonnd Lines, and from Providence, Wor- 
cester, and Nashua by the W. & N. R. R. 

FARES. 

From Boston to Mt. Kineo House and Return .... $15.00 

Portland, Brunswick, Bath, and Lewiston 12.00 

Gardiner $10,50. Augusta and Belfast . 10.00 



THE RANCELEY LAKES, 

Another of Maine's remote and romantic resorts, are reached in no way 
80 easily as by tlii« line; in fact, it being the only way whereby good, com- 
fortable public conveyance is afforded the entire distance; and the trip made 
this way is much quicker and cheaper than by any other route. Any line 
may be taken to Portland, from whence the Maine Central Railroad trains 
leave daily, at or about noon, for Farmington, making close connection 
with stages for Phillips and Rangeley the same evening. 

Fare from Boston to Kangeley and Return, $14.00; Portland, 
$11.00. 

MOUNT DESERT 

Will be reached this season daily (Sundays excepted) by the new and ele- 
gant steamer of the Rockland, Mount Desert, ami Sullivan Steamboat Co. 
" Mount Desert " leaving Rockland every afternoon, on arrival of trains 
leaving Boston in the morning and Portland at noon. Returning, will 
leave Bar Harbor every morning in season to connect with afternoon train 
from Rockland to Portland and Boston. Mr. F. O. Beal, proprietor of 
the Bangor House, will also run a daily line of stages between Bangor and 
Bar Harbor, thus forming an all-land route, far more preferable to some 
than the journey by water. The new Steamer "City of Bangor" will also 
make two or three trips a week between Bangor and Bar Harbor, touching 
at all intermediate landings. 

BOOTHBAY, MOUSE AND SQUIRREL ISLANDS 

Are reached via Steamers from Bath. 

CASTINE, 

Via Steamers from Belfast and Bangor. 

And besides being the best route to the resorts already mentioned, this 
line runs through or within easy distance of numbers of picturesque and 
healthful villages along the sea-coast, and in the interior, which, with their 
attractive scenery and invigorating atmosphere, are so rapidly and widely 
becoming known and appreciated as Summer Resorts, and drawing in- 
creased numbers of visitors each year. 



r. E. BOOTHBT, PAYSON TUCKER, 

General Ticket Agent. Superintendent. 



Portland, Me., May, 1879. 



THK 

BOSTON AND MAINE 

RAILROAD 

Tb the POPULAR :iii(i RELIABLE nnitp to the 

FISHING & HUNTING GROUNDS OF MAINE, 

Making dose coniu-ftions at r'tiiTLANl) with K;iilrMailr* mid 
St.nmHhii. Lim-H for tlu- RANGELEYmu\ MOOSEHEAD 
LAKES, ami tlu- umuy \ii\hh and htriHiiiH of NorthoHStern 

Mainr. 

EXCURSION TICKETS 

To the ali«>\e jH.mt.'*, and many others, anion^ uhiili art- Glen 
llouso (White MountainB), (iorham, Nil., Bethel, Amlover, 
Mryant'a Pond, Poland Springs, Bar Harbor (MiMjnt 

Disert), Fnbyan's and Oawford's (White Mountains), Sebugu 
Lakf. an.l KENNEBUNK and 

Old Orchard Beaches. 



Station in Boston : Head of Washiiigton Street. Haymarket Square. 



Send for List of Ercursions and Prices. 

JAS. T. FrKBKK, I). J. FLANDKRS, 

(;i\ Si PT. Gen. Tickkt Ao't. 




Haknibal Hamlin and Wm. H. IIayford, Tmsteet;. 



INTERNATIONAL ROUTE ! 

THE ONLY ALL-RAIL LINE 

BETWEEN THE 

United States and Maritime Provinces. 

loitMiNd, wrru ITS connkctkins, 

riii: MOST i)iKK("r kottk ni-yrwEKN 
BOSTON, MONTKKAL, FOKTLAND, BANOOR, 

AM) ALL POINTS 
TO ANr» KKOM 

St. John, Halifax, Fredericton, St. Andrews, St. 

Stephen, Uoulton, Woodstock, Fort Fairfield, 

Caribou, Grand Falls, Edmundston, 



ALL POINTS ime Al EAST. 

Tlic cnmplellon of the New HriiiiHuIck Kallwav to K<Irnnn(l.»roii bringH 
till' country of tlu- f.'rill.- Ar<H.Mt<Kik hji.1 St. .lolni Vallevi- ..f .anv accexH 
\\\\\\ all pariK of tin- L'niu-.| siai»'8. To tlu' Tourist and Sportsman, 
tlilj« rotuitry oflVrH Mipi-iior ailvaiitam-H. Kirli in natural attra. tion.-. s.-. n.ry 
luirivalli'il fur ^'raniifur afnl iK-aiity. Htrt'atn» anil lak«'>« alxtiinJinv; with 
palnion, tiilaile. toj^uc. tmut. an«l wl"iite-ti»»li. with wilti fowl in abiiiMlance. 
and forest!* hf.Kko«l with gaiuo, tht-n- \n nu other such field for HiMjrthnieu in 
America ea«t of the KcM-kv .Mountains. 



Through Tickets on Sale at all Principal Ticket Offices. 
J. F. LEAVITT, F. W. CRAM, 

Siipfrintrntlrnf, 



Gen 'I Tichrt Affrnt^ 

Bangor, Me. 



Bangor, Me. 



Maine*8 Great Summer Jieftort for Sportfini4H 
and Tourists^ 

MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY, 

Readied from Honton by Ka!*tcrn, t)r Hiwton ami Maine, ami Maine Central 
Hailroa^Is, or by Sanfonl'H Steamers, running direct to liangor, wbere con- 

ru-(-tl<)ii \t^ iiia<le with tlio 

BlNeOK & PISCIIIOUIS RlllBOiD 

Foil IJlanciiari), om-v Twklvk Milra rnuM tiik Lake. 

I•:l«.^, nu'or Tr.iln Iitivpw the D<'p<it of tiip European and North 
American Railway, 'iaily, at 7..'V) a..h,. ftrrivin;; ti BInnchard at I L-'O 
A.M.. where, AKTKR IHNNKIc. oninvliMii ir« m:i<lf wifh .MurriiMin u. Iliint- 
Inij's Concord Coarhi'it, which arrife at Or««nvlll«, r<M)t of tlu- \jike, thrre 
connecting with Steamer Tor the 

ivtouxT icrrsTTX) i rousE, 

TWKNTY MILES LI' TIIK LAKK. 

KrtiirnliiK. Steamer leavrn .Mount KiniH} Hnuw In the morninjj, reaching 
(Sreenville in time to connc<-t, aftK.U imnnkh, with Slav'O for HIanchanI, 
there c«nine«ting with the '2.40 i-.M. train, which rea«he« liangor at 7.10 i-.M. 
ill t«eaj)on to connect with night train for Portland and Ikwton. if du«lre<i. 

Ei:x:ovirsi<3rx Tioli.ots, 

To go and return, are for i»ale in B«mton at tin- Eastern aii<l Boston 
and Maine Railroad Offices. 

Fare from Boston to Mount Kineo House and 
Return, $15.00; Portland, $12.00. 



M. (ilDDINOS. AUTinR BROW^T, H. W. BLOOD, 

PrfBident, Supfrlnirndrnl, Treasurfr, 

BariKor, Me. Bangor, Mr. BanKor, Me. 



Campers and Lumbermen, Attention 



A NEW AND VALUABLE INVENTION. 



THE 



CROSB! PiTENT AXE COfER 



NO LUMBgRMAN NOR CAMPER SBOLLD B8 WITflODT IT. 

Made of stout leather, with brass trimmings. It is cheap, 
light, nnd durable; will not rust, and protects the edge of the 
axe from becoming nicked or dulled, and renders it safe to 
carry. Also, 

ff^DIAN J-fATCH£T^ AND ^VxE^, 



^ 



Witjj broad .steel heads, made specially for campers, and adapted 
for use in the woods. Three sizes. 

SEND STAMP FOR CIRCULAR. 



A. S. CROSBY & CO., Manufacturers, 

WATERVILLE. MAINE. 



Fishermen, Attention ! 
FINE SALMON AND TROUT RODS, 

Made of Split liamboo, Greenliart, Ash, or Lance- 
wood. Every rod tlioroughly tested before it leaves the 
shop. 

Split Bamboo Rods a Specialty. 

Prices /ienxonah/e, and Satigfaction fjunranteed. 



Orders ai-e particulaily desired from Wiiolksalk Dkal- 
ERS, to whom tlie very l)e.st of terms will be offered. 

JAMES REED, 
26 Banks Street, Cambridge. Mass. 



STEREOSCOPIC VIEWS. 

SCENERY OF NORTHERN MAINE. 

Views of MOOHKIIKAD LAKK mid the PKNOHSC'OT 
RIVKK, and u lar^je number of MOUNT KATAIIIilX 

taken from the Basin, Summit, and other favorable 

points. 

ALL AT 11EASONA13LE PRICES. 

ADDRESS 

A. L. HINDS, BENTON FALL?, MAINE. 



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SUMMER VACATIONS 

AT 

MOOSEHEAD LAKE 

AND VICINITY. 
31 iOractiral ©uitic=i3ook for tourists : 

DESCRIBING ROUTES FOR THE CANOE-MAN OVER THE PRINCIPAL 

WATERS OF NORTHERN MAINE, WITH HINTS TO CAMPERS, 

AMJ ESTIMATES OF EXPENSE FOR TOURS. 



Illustrated with Twenty Views of Penobscot and Kennebec Scenery, 

and accompanied by a large Map of the Headwaters of the 

Penobscot^ Kennebec, and St. John Khers. 



Bv LUCIUS L. HUBB 

>^^H>< OF co\^^ 

\ >^ 1879. . 

WILLIAMS AND c'om'P A N Y. 
THE AUTHOR, 6i COURT STREET. 
1879. 



I 8-7/ 



By Lucius L. Hubbard. 

1879. 




llluUr^ioM by Forbo Albertriw Co.. Bortoa. 



^(irnbs unb Companions 



WHO HAVE SHARED WITH HIM THE I'LEASURLS OF CAMPING OUT 
IN THE WOODS OF MAINE, 

THE AUTHOR 
AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATES THIS LITTLE VOLUME, 

IN THE EARNEST HOPE THAT, EVEN IF IT SHOULD CONTAIN 

NOTHING NEW TO THEM, IT WILL AT LEAST SERVE 

TO RECALL BRIGHT MEMORIES OF DAYS 

THAT ARE PAST. 



INTRODUCTION. 



To the carr-worii business man and ovens'orked stu- 
dent, no relaxation from the constant wear of their 
respective callings is so grateful as that which comes 
while camping in tlic woods. " The accompaniments 
of life are removeil, and selfishness, ambition, and care 
have here no place ; a man is most truly thrown upon 
his own resources. To be alone with nature, without 
book, without work, without care, without the slightest 
hindrance to wandering at your own sweet will, with a 
heart which beats * true to the kindred points of heaven 
and home,' and to be for this purj^ose in the very heart 
of the Moosehead forests, is more than all the trout- 
fishing, and almost the rival of the matchless views 
which meet the eye." * In the wild woods life is 
regenerated, and even after two weeks of camping out 
and canoeing one issues forth with renewed strength 
for the work of the coming year. Rest and recreation 
are an absolute necessity. A celebrated jurist of this 
country, no longer living, used to say he could do a 
year's work in ten months, but not in twelve. 

* Rev. Julius H. Ward, in Harper's Magazine, August, 1875. 



VI INTRODUCTION. 

It then becomes a practical question, how deep into 
the forests must one penetrate with his birch-canoe to 
find this seclusion and relaxation, and what arc the 
means of attaining them ? 

'ITie advantage to canoe-men of having some definite 
and tangible information concerning tiie dilTerent lakes 
and water-courses over which their routes may take 
them, is too well known l)y those persons who have 
camped out in the woods of Maine to need proof. It 
often happens that the tourist comes to a part of a 
stream where the difficulty of further progress seems 
insurmountable. After successful efforts made to over- 
come the obstacles which first appeared, others take 
their place, and the chain seems unending. 'Hie lurk- 
less canoe-man in ignorance turns back disap|>ointed, 
and seeks an easier route elsewhere, when, if he had 
but known it, smooth water and a pictures^iue and 
attractive course lay before him, within easy reach. 

With a knowledge of this need, gained by experience, 
the writer has prepared the following pages for the 
benefit of habitues of .\Ioosehead Lake, and of others 
who may have in view a visit to some of the wilder 
localities in its vicinity. 'ITie brevity necessarily re- 
quired in a iK>cket guide-l)ook has caused him to set 
forth facts without any attempt at embellishment, — 
plain, statistical facts, whose only function is to be use- 
ful. The book, aside from its illustrations, is not meant 
to be entertaining, and they who seek in its pages any 
elaborate or detailed descriptions of scenery will be 
disappointed. 



INTRODUCTION. Vil 

That part of the work devoted to camping is also 
merely an epitome. Many topics touched upon had 
to be passed over briefly, and left perhaps incomplete, 
while others of scarcely less importance had to be 
omitted altogether. The information and advice actu- 
ally given is, moreover, very much condensed, and, 
such as it is, the writer offers it to beginners in the 
art of camping, as a stepping-stone to a more extended 
knowledge, which can best be obtained by experience. 

He who goes into the woods to camp for the first 
time will be at a loss to understand many of the 
phrases in vogue among older campers and guides, 
some few of which, on account of their brevity, have 
been used in the following pages. The word " pitch " 
refers either to the resinous mixture used on canoes, to 
a small water-fall, or to the height of a stream. After 
a hard rain one may say, " There is a good pitch of 
water." " Rips " is a word used of a stretch of water, 
which is not long enough nor rough enough to be 
called *' rapids." To " drop " a canoe over a " pitch " 
is to let it float over it, the canoe-man guiding it from 
the shore with a setting-pole, and with the " painter," 
or Icading-ropc. 

A " landing " is a term used by lumbermen to de- 
note a place cleared of bushes and trees on the bank 
of a stream or pond, to which the logs cut in winter 
are hauled, in anticipation of the spring floods. 

*' Logon," probably a derivative of " lagoon," means 
a very shallow arm of a stream or pond, where lilies 
and grass grow profusely. 



VMi INTRODUCTION. 

" Wangen " is a shelter-tent, one might say, made of 
bark or boughs, and is perhaps oftenest used by " river- 
drivers " in the spring, when engaged in floating or 
" driving " logs down the rivers to market. 

In the vicinity of Moosehead Lake the expressions 
"East Branch," "West Branch," "North Branch" 
and " South Branch " refer to the Penobscot River. 
Moreover, the North and South liranclics are actually 
branches of the West Branch. 

On the Kennebec "The Forks " means the junction 
of that river with Dead River. 

The term " navigation " as used in the following 
pages refers to canoes, and rearlers will also note the 
difference between the right and left Ininks of a stream, 
and the same terms without the word " bank." 

The distances given are only approximate, but are 
founded on close observation and studied comparison. 

The accompanying map has been prepared by the 
writer with a great deal of care, so as to give as cor- 
rectly as possible the exact position of town lines, 
carries, and roads, as well as of mountains, lakes, and 
streams. Roads in the wild woods are often very ser- 
viceable, and to follow them sometimes recjuires great 
care. The older " spots " or " blazes " on the trees 
are usually more reliable than the fresher ones, as the 
latter most often indicate only a local logging-road. 

The author is under great obligations to Mr. A. L. 
Hinds of Benton Falls, Maine, for the use of many of 
his interesting photographic negatives, and to Messrs. 
Vose and Paul of Skowhegan for a like favor in respect 



INTRODUCTION. ix 

to negatives of scenery of the Kennebec valley. He 
also acknowledges himself indebted for valuable assist- 
ance to Dr. Attwood Crosby of Waterville, Maine, to 
Dr. Elliott Coues, U. S. A., for the use, kindly and 
promptly granted, of his Hygienic Notes, and to nu- 
merous other very obliging persons for timely and 
important information and assistance. 

Cambridge, July \st, 1879. 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



PACK 

Foot of Mooschcad Lake 6 

Mount Kinco, from Hirch Point .... .12 

Mount Kinco — Pebble Beach iS 

Mooschcad Lake — Squaw Mountain 24 

Mouth of Pine Stream .... -30 

('hcsuncook I«ikc 36 

Mount Katahdin, from Kipogcnus Lake 42 

Kipogenus Falls — Looking East 4.S 

The Uig Heater 54 

Mount Katahdin, from Sandy Stream . . .60 

Mount Katahdin — Southwest Slide . .66 

Mountain lirook — Path to Katahdin . . . .72 

Mount Katahdin, from Katepskonegan I^ke 78 

Millinokett Lake 84 

Mount Katahdin — Ix>oking towards the Basin .... 90 

Carratunk Falls — Solon 96 

Old Hill — Bingham 102 

Austin Brook — Bingham loS 

Dugway — Kennebec River 114 

Moxic Falls 120 



CONTENTS. 



PART FIRST. 

J^olD to (Tamp Out. 

PAr.K 

Time of Year , 

Number in a Party 2 

A Camper's Outfit, — Wlicre and How to Get it . . 3 

Camp "Kit" ^ 

Personal Luggage 7 

Provisions j. 

Canoes and their Usage i5 

Guides i^ 

Camp-Ground 22 

Camp-Fire 24 

Cooking 2c 

Dressing Game 28 

Hygienic Notes 20 



PART SECOND. 

fHoo3ff)fali ILake antj ITmtiutJiate Uicmitg. 

Routes from Boston to Moosehead Lake • • • • 39 

Moosehead Lake 44 

Mount Kinco ^^3 



FACB 



xii CONTENTS. 

Cours bcuoutj ittoosc|)catJ ILahc. 

West Branch of the Penobscot, — Going Down . . 62 

Jo Mary and Neighboring I^kes 76 

Northwest Carry 77 

West IJranch of the Penobscot, — Sceboomook Falls 78 

West Branch of the Penobscot, — Going Up . . . 79 

South Branch of the Penobscot 82 

North Branch of the Penobscot 86 

St. John Pond and Baker Lake 91 

Caucomgomoc Lake 93 

Allagash Lake 100 

Down the St. John River loi 

East Branch of the Penobscot 107 

Ebeeme Ponds and Pleasant River 109 

Katahdin Iron- Works in 

Sebec Uke H2 

Mount Katahdin from the East 115 

Forks of the Kennebec and Vicinity 117 

Moose River above Moose River Village . . . . 126 

Game and Fish of Northern Maine 129 

Digest of Game and Fish Laws 132 

Tables of Tours for Campers I35 

Expense of Tours • '38 

Advertisements '4° 

Index '41 



SUMMER VACATIONS 

AT 

MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 



PART FIRST. 
HOW TO CAMP OUT. 



TIME OF YEAR. 

All seasons have their respective advantages for the 
hunter or trapper, whether sportsman or not, according 
to the object he has in view. Each has its own disad- 
vantages as well, but for general purposes of camping- 
out September and October offer the most attractions 
and have the fewest drawbacks. Black- flies and mosqui- 
toes have then ceased their torments, the weather is apt 
to be settled and jileasant, the nights cool, and game is 
in its prime, and likely to be found everywhere. 

The best fishing is undoubtedly to be had — at least 
in places of most frequent resort — in early spring, just 
after the ice breaks up in the lakes and streams. The 
larger game frequents the feeding-grounds on the banks 
of streams, and shores of ponds, and comes down to the 
water at night, in the hot weather of midsummer. But 
these are the halcyon days of the black-fly and mosquito, 



2 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AXD VICINITY. 

the one a constant attendant l)y day, and the other by 
night, both combining to make life miserable for the 
reckless sportsman. Besides, the days are sweltering 
and the nights oppressive. 

Midwinter is not without its attraction, — ])rincipally 
that of novelty for him who ventures into the woods too 
far north. He is soon disabused of the fascination 
which drew him thither, and learns that it is much more 
comfortable to put up at some hotel or cabin at the 
outskirts of civilization, and to make hunting excur- 
sions on snow-shoes from these, and to fish through the 
ice under cover of a warm little fish-house, than to 
camp under a shelter tent with the snow four feet deep 
around him, antl the mercury at twenty-five below zero. 

NUMBER IN A PARTY. 

The number of persons of which a party should con- 
sist will depend more or less on the characteristics of 
the individuals and the object in view. Travelling — 
especially in the woods — is apt to show up the least 
amiable side of one's disposition, and the larger the 
party, the more dirtic ult will it be to have united coun- 
sels and action. If you are bent on having a jolly time, 
and are not particular about getting game and fish, nor 
where you go, you can well join a large party ; but 
when you go mainly for the enjoyments of hunting and 
fishing such as can only be had in the wild woods, go 
with one friend, — a tried friend, on whose good sense 
and unselfishness you can rely. The next best way, 
and you may prefer it, is to go alone, with a trusty and 
competent guide. Two men, each with a canoe and 



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 3 

guide, is an advantageous combination, for the pairs 
can separate for a time, if advisable, and occupy differ- 
ent grounds near together. For a short trip two men 
and one guide can go in one canoe, but for a trip of 
two weeks or more a canoe will only hold two men and 
luggage, and will have an ample load at that. 



A CAMPER'S OUTFIT, — WHERE AND HOW 
TO GET IT. 

As Mr. Ciould h:is hap|)ily suggested in his interest- 
ing book, '* How to Camp Out," you should begin l(i 
make preparations for your trip two or three months 
before you intend to start. To make small purchases 
of useful articles to be taken with you, and to dwell in 
anticipation on what is before you, affords almost as 
much pleasure as the later enjoyment of the woods. 
There is great satisfaction in picturing to yourself what 
part this and that article will play in your adventures, or 
in what sort of a place, whether lake or brook, moun- 
tain or meadow, it will first be called into recjuisition. 
Then, too, if you put off all preparation until the last 
moment, you may forget some of the most important 
parts of your outfit, — a sine qua non, — and the thought 
of what " might have been " will be quite aggravating. 
Collect your outfit, piece by piece ; appropriate a closet 
or a trunk to its exclusive use, and put the parts of 
your collection into it, day by day, keeping a list from 
which to check off each item as soon as obtained. 
Every time an article suggests itself to you as one that 
is likely to be indispensable, get it. Only be careful 
to make your load as hght as possible. Remember 



4 MOOSE HEAD LAKE A XD V/C/X/TV. 

that what one may consider a necessity at home may 
be regarded as a hixnry in the woods, and that to carry 
one pound of extra weight fifty miles is equivalent to 
carrying fifty pounds one mile. 

Get everything you need, in the way of personal lug- 
gage, at home. You seldom have time or inclination 
to stop over, by the way, and are not at all sure to find 
what you want at the last village on the verge of the 
forest. I?y '' personal luggage " the writer means every- 
thing exclusive of food, and of the camp " kit," a term 
explained below. 

It is very convenient, if you mean to use canned 
goods in the woods, to have them packed at home, in 
a box with rope handles on each end of it, and to take 
them with you as luggage. 

CAMT "Kir." 

Parties who go into camp with guides d(^ not usually 
have to provide what is termed the '* kit." This in- 
cludes, besides canoe and tent, axes, cooking utensils, 
and the like, — articles which nearly all guides own in 
quantities suffi( ient for parties of two or three. 

For persons who may be about to go into camp 
without guides, the following list of articles will be 
found useful, if not indispensable : — 

Party of Two. Party nf Four. 

Axe, one ; SJlbs two. 

Uaker, small medium. 

Brcadpan ; 2 qts 3 qt.s. 

Ikittor-box, wooden 

Can-opcncr 

Coffee-pot ; I qt 2 qts. 



IIIXTS TO CAMPERS. 5 

Forks, three five. 

Firkins, or bags, for provisions .... 

Frying-pans, two. medium two, large. 

Kettle, iron; 2 qts 3 l*^- 

Knives, three five. 

Molasses-can ; i gal 

Mop for dishes 

Pepper-shaker 

Pitch dipper, — handle riveted .... two. 

I'otato bag 

Rope for canoe, — " Painter " 

Salt-shaker 

Sponge for canoe two. 

Spoon, one, large 

Teaspoons, three six. 

Tent (-\) 7ft. X Sft 

Tin dippers, four six. 

Tin pails ; two, 2 qts three, 3 qts. 

Tin plates, four six. 

For parties of more than four persons, the capacity 
of the pails, pots, and pans will have to be proportion- 
ally larger, and the number of the more necessary table- 
dishes increased, so that there will be two or three extra 
of each kind. 

The cost of an outfit for two, such as is given above, 
will be about fifteen dollars, exclusive of tent, which may 
be bought for ten or twelve dollars. 

Of course, persons can get along with fewer things 
than those above enumerated. The hunter often goes 
into the woods, in midwinter, and his outfit consists of 
a thin blanket, an axe, rifle, sheath-knife, frying-pan, 
and large tin dipper. With these, a bag of flour, a 
l)iece of pork, and what he shoots, he sustains himself, 
and makes no complaint. In like manner, a cam])cr's 
" kit " can be crude, or elaborate, to suit his whims or 



6 MOOSEIIRAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

his pocket ; and he can direct his outlay in such a man- 
ner as to undergo a greater or less degree of '* roughing 
it," — and to his entire satisfiiction. 

For the benefit of parties who go to Moosehead Lake, 
it may be well to say that all of the above articles can 
be bought at Greenville, except bags for provisions, 
which will have to be brought from home. These should 
be strong, made of stout drilling, and of various sizes, 
according to the bulk of the articles meant to be car- 
ried in them. Moreover, a large canvas bag, or rubber 
navy bag, should make part of the kit, to hold the 
smaller bags, and keep their contents dry. 

It has been, and still is, quite common to carry pro- 
visions into the woods in wooden buckets or firkins. 
'J'hey answer very well for trips where little or no carry- 
ing is to be done, but are very much of a nuisance 
when the contrary is the case. The principal ad\an- 
tage in having bags is, that, as fast as your food is con- 
sumed, the (yulk of your luggage decreases, which with 
buckets is not aj)preciable. One bucket, for dishes, 
salt and pej)])er shakers, can-opener, condensed milk, 
and other odtls and ends, will more than compensate, 
in convenience, the trouble of carrying it. Axes and 
hatchets should l>e provided with some sort of cover. 
They are then less troublesome and harmful, and can 
be thrown int<j a canoe or on shore without danger, 
either of cutting something else, or of being themselves 
nicked or dulled. They can also be carried safely in 
one's belt, over carries and through the woods. 

One or two kettle-holders will prove extremely use- 
ful, and easy to carry ; a small whetstone and a crcoked 
knife, too, may well be added to the kit. 




FOOT OF MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 7 

An iron bean-pot will be found a great luxury, if it 
does not have to be " carried " much. Otherwise take 
canned beans. 

A farina boiler, which consists of two pails, the smaller 
set in the other, serves well to cook oat-meal and mush, 
without risk of burning, — either the food or the cook. 

A shelter tent is warmer than an A tent, if a fire is 
kept blazing before it all night, but it is otherwise less 
convenient, especially in stormy weather. 

PERSONAL LUGGAGE. 

The writer first began to camp out ten years ago. 
His i)reparations for his initial trip to the woods were 
crude. As beginners, we do not feel the need of many 
things, which want of experience, perhaps as much as 
lack of means, prevents us from getting ; but after a 
series of summers spent in the woods, we learn how we 
can, in many ways, add materially to our enjoyment 
and comfort, at trifling expense, and with only a slight 
addition to the weight of our luggage. 

Following is a list of articles the writer deems essen- 
tial to a tolerable degree of comfort and ease, while out 
for a two weeks' canoeing excursion : — 

One pair stout shoes, well greased. 

One pair stout slippers. 

One suit. — old, but stout clothes. 

One extra pair pantaloons (Scotch goods). 

Two woollen shirts with collars. 

One change of under-clothes. 

Slouch felt hat (gray). 

Two or three pairs heavy woollen socks. 

Two silk handkerchiefs. 



8 MOOS Ell EAD LAKE AND I'JCJXITY. 

A cardigan jacket (dark gray). 

A light rid)l>cr coat. 

Two riibl)cr blankets, — for each person. 

One pair heavy woollen blankets, — for each person. 

A blanket strap. 

Two carrying straps. 

Court and sticking plaster. 

.Small flask of brandy. 

Hotlle Jamaica ginger. 

lio.x of grease for boots. 

IJottle of mosquito mixture. 

Piece of soap in small tin-l)ox. 

Sponge, tooth-brush, coml), and two towels. 

Camp candlestick and candles. 

Two or three haversacks, or a knapsack. 

Moscjuito net for the head. 

A knit cap for sleeping. 

Pieces of rope and twine. 

Rags, and a small l)ottlc of gtm-oij. 

Needles, thnad, iKeswax, and a small awl. 

Compass, matches. 

Hroad l>clt, with strap for attaching tin cup, 

Gotxl sheath-knife. 

Carlridgc-lK).x (old army cap-lxix). 

Allen, or Winchester, rifle, and from 50 to 100 cartridges. 

Cheap fly-rod, four leaders, and a do/en flies. 

Six stout hooks. 

Reel, and fifty yards oiled-silk line. 

Pack of cards — for rairjy days. 

Pi»ckct-map of region to l>e visited. 

COMMENTS ()\ TlIK FORKC;OING. 

Do not wear boots into the woods. They arc cum- 
l)crsonie, and sure to get wet, and wlien in that rondi- 
tion are very hard to get off and on. \ ]>air of loose- 
fitting brogans, such as can be l)ouglU for about two 
dollars, or an old pair of Waiikenphast's shoes, if you 



HINTS ro CAMPERS. 9 

have them, will be found most comfortable. Shoes should 
fit snugly, without pinching. If your feet are going to 
be out of order for want of proper covering, you would 
better go back home at once. A piece of leather may 
prove of service in your " kit." The writer has of late 
years found rubber boots, which come up half-way 
between knee and hip, almost indispensable where 
wading is necessar)'. However, a pair of stout shoes, 
well greased, will answer the purpose, and when you 
return to camp with wet feet, the comfort of dry socks 
and slippers will be exceedingly grateful. If you take 
rubber boots, a change of pantaloons will not be neces- 
sary. 

An excellent substitute for heavy shoes and slippers 
will be found in moccasons, which when new are water- 
proof, and fit the foot easily. They are good either in 
a canoe, or when on the walk ; an extra sole on the 
inside heli)s to protect the foot from roots and stones. 
In this connection, when you dry your shoes or moc- 
casons, be careful not to expose them to too great heat. 
Greased leather, or the fatty hide of any animal, will, 
when exposed to the sun, or to a hot fire, burn very 
quickly, and before one would suspect it. It is a seri- 
ous thing to lose one's foot-covering in the woods. 

A heavy coat, or overcoat, will be found to be an 
incumbrance from its weight, and inconvenient when 
I)addling. A good cardigan jacket and a thick vest 
will be all the extra clothing needed for cold days in 
September. The suit one wears should be such as one 
does not expect to use again. Scotch goods are pref- 
erable, as they dry easily after a wetting. Their color 
should be dark gray, if possible, to resemble that of the 



lO MOOSEHKAD LAKE AND VIC/X/TY. 

trunks of the trees. The wearer will thus be less likely 
to attract the notice of game that may come in his 
way. 

A ])air of suspenders is a comfort one should not be 
withcjut. It does not matter if they do not look well 
over your woollen shirt. 

A light rubber coat in the woods is invaluable, and 
two or three extra rubber blankets are aj)t to be quite 
servi( eal)le, in more ways than one. Should a shower 
overtake you gn rout€y one of them thrown over your 
canoe-load protects it thoroughly. In camp two of 
them stretched overhead on either side of a horizontal 
l)()Ie make a good shelter both for your table and lug- 
gage, and they also make a warm covering to sleep 
under, on cold nights. 

.'\ good substitute for tent, and rubber blankets too, 
» onsists in pieces of cotton < loth, yfi. X 4ft-» soaked in 
boiled linseeil-oil. If made with eyelet-holes in the 
margin, they will answer the purpose of a tent, four of 
them being laced together in pairs, two side to side, 
and these pairs kiwA t(3 end. The two ends thus laced 
together are laid on the ridge-pole of the tent, and tri- 
angular pieces buttoned on at each mw([ complete the 
dwelling. 

(Jne pair of stout uik ut woollen blankets for eac h 
j>erson is none too many. For cold nights in Septeml)er 
more warmth and comfort can be had by having your 
blankets doubled over and sewed up on one ^W, and 
three (juarters up the side, like a bag, so that when in it 
you have two thicknesses of blanket over and under you, 
and your feet cannot become uncovered during sleep. 
The top of the blanket can, if necessary, be drawn up 



n/.VrS TO CAMPERS. II 

over the head, while that part of the side left unscwed 
will furnish a good breathing-place. 

Leather carrying-straps consist of a centre piece 
about a foot long and two inches wide, firmly sewed, 
at either extremity, to slightly tapering end pieces ten 
feet long and half an inch wide. 

To make a pack, spread out on the ground your 
blanket, tent, or whatever you intend to use for the 
jiurpose, and double it over, more or less, to suit the 
size of your load. One or two trials will enable you 
to judge accurately of the extent of covering needed 
for the pack. Lay the straj) on the blanket, &c., so 
that the centre piece shall be just over the edge of it, 
opposite the middle of the side, and the end pieces 
shall extend from the same side along the ends of the 
blanket, half-way from the middle of it to the ends. 
Then fold the ends of the blanket over the strap, let- 
ting them meet in the middle, or overlap, if necessary. 
The foundation of your pack is now ready. Make a 
I)ile of your luggage, buckets, provisions, &c. on the 
blanket, and when you think you have weight or bulk 
enough, take the ends of your strap, one at a time, 
and knot each to the corresponding end of the centre 
piece; pull tightly, so that the ends of your blanket 
will be drawn together like the mouth of a bag. After 
the knots shall have been made, bring the ends of 
your strap together at the middle of the pack under 
the centre piece, cross them and carry them around to 
the opposite side of the pack, where they shall be 
firmly and finally knotted. The pack thus made is 
slung on the back ; the broad part of the strap rests 
against the forehead, and by leaning forward, and 



12 MOOSEIIEAD LAKE AXD VICIXITY. 

holding the stmj) with both hands over the shoulders, 
a heavy weight can be carried with comparative ease. 
The Indians use this method almost altogether. 

The foregoing list includes a small quantity of 
brandy. This should be used only in case of sickness. 
People are supposed to go into the woods for the pur- 
j)Ose of gaining health and strength, and this inestima- 
l)le i)rivilege should not be prostituted by the use of 
iKjuor, merely to gratify an appetite for drink. The 
use of stimulants is sure to be followed by an unhealthy 
reaction, and in the woods, if nowhere else, there 
ought to be enough in Nature's charms to draw one 
away from a practice at once ruinous to health and 
to self-respect. For colds, or after a wetting of the 
body, Jamai( a ginger will be found an excellent r<Miiedy 
and preventive. 

Parties who camp out in July or August will need 
some mosquito-repellent, to put on their faces and 
hands. Various (omj)ounils are put up, and arc for 
sale, by druggists and others, which may answer the pur- 
I)Ose ; but the writer has never found anything l)etter 
than oil of tar, and sweet oil or glycerine, in ecpial c|uan- 
lities, and a little gum camphor and oil of pennyroyal 
mixed with it. .At first, renewed applications are neces- 
sary at short inter\'als, until the skin becomes moist, 
and saturated with the odor of the mixture. 

For ladies, a pair of thick buckskin gauntlets, and a 
^ood veil, are the best and most jjlea-sant substitutes 
for the above mixture. 

A mosquito net for the head, such as are for sale at 
sporting emporiums, will be a great comfort on warm 
nights, and especially al)out daybreak. 








MOl'N'l' KIXKO, 1 ROM Birch Poixt 



niXTS TO CAMPERS. 13 

Matches should be kept in a small tight tin box, in 
a dry part of your luggage. A water-proof pocket- 
match-box you should always carry with you, well 
filled. You may need it once in ten years, but might 
fare badly that one time if caught without matches. 

As to gun and fishing-tackle, some prefer one kind 
and some another. Usually campers-out take just 
what they can conveniently get. The Winchester gun, 
eight-shooter, is now the favorite. It is cheap, reliable, 
and can be fired and reloadetl from the shoulder, 
besides being of a desirable weight. The Allen gun is 
also a good gun for a cheap one, but, not having a 
magazine, cannot be fired so rai)idly as the Winchester. 
For a two weeks' trip fifty cartridges will be found more 
than enough, unless one expects to ignore the possible 
presence of large game, and to shoot right and left at 
anything which may furnish a good target. 

A shot-gun will generally be found a useless encum- 
brance. 

For fly rods, one made of ash and lancewood, and 
which weighs from eight to twelve ounces, and costs 
about five dollars, will answer well enough for ordinary 
fishing. Higher-priced rods can be had according to 
one's taste and resources, and afford, perhaps, more 
satisfaction to the scientific fisherman. They can well 
be taken care of, when the owner is at a hotel, but the 
camper-out will find it rather irksome to be continually 
putting his rod together, and taking it apart to avoid a 
rain-storm or the dews of night. 

For flies, the best are the Montreal, red-ibis, brown- 
hackle, and blue-jay. For spring-fishing additional 
varieties may be found good, such as the Jenny-Lind, 
the grizzle-king, the professor, and the gray-drake. 



14 MOOSFJIKAP LAKE AND I'/C/X/TV. 

Six-foot leaders arc long enough. They shcjuld he 
of a pale bluish tint. 

A map is desirable as a guide; it also serves to 
while away many an hour which might otherwise be 
dull. You become familiar with the character of the 
country, and, after study of the difierent water-courses, 
can often plan out trips, and post yourself upon their 
practicability, by (juestioning guides and others, when- 
ever opportunity offers. 

PROVISIONS. 

The following list of provisions will be found to con- 
tain all that is necessary for good camj)-fare, together 
with a little that may be regarded as a luxury. The 
acid in pickles, tomatoes, and dried or canned fruit, 
ser\x*s as a correc tive to the large amount of fat una- 
voidably eaten by campers, and just enough of these 
articles should be taken to ser\e this purpose, and 
vary one's diet, without adding too much extra weight 
to the necessary canoe-load. 

The fractions opjKJsite each article in the list repre- 
sent the amount of such article which a man of average 
" ( amp-ai>i)etite " will eat in one day, and are based 
on the writer's experience with ten different men on 
six different trij)s. To know aj)pro\imately how much 
to take for a given time, it is hardly necess:iry to say, 
multiply the number in your party by the number of 
days you are to be in camp, and this result by the 
several fractions. Of course there can be no absolute 
gauge of appetites, and during the last few days of 
your trip you may have to live on short rations ; or 



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 15 

you may find so much game as to have an overphis of 
{)rovisions. In either case, however, this list will be 
found to be not wide of the mark. 

Daily Amount per Person. 

leaking powder 1-15 box. 

licans I-16 qt., or 1-12 can. 

Hutter 1-12 lb. 

Chocolate 1-3" 'b. 

Coffee 1-45 Jh. 

Condensed milk 7-100 can. 

Corn 1-20 can. 

Corned l>eef 1-12 lb. 

Dried peaches 1-20 lb. 

Flour, white and Graham .... 1-2 lb. 

Hard bread 3-20 lb. 

Lard i-iolb. 

Molasses 1-30 q^- 

Oat meal \ 

Cracked wheat ' 2-25 lb. 

Pearled barley ) 

Onions 1-20 lb. 

Pepper 1-150 lb. 

Pickles optional. 

Potatoes 1-75 hn. 

Pork or bacon I -4 lb. 

Salt I-2S lb. 

Sugar 6-25 lb. 

Sugar, maple optional. 

Tea 1-150 lb. 

Tomatoes i- 12 can. 

It must be borne in mind that, if any one of the 
above articles is not taken, more of something else 
must be substituted. Maple sugar, dried or canned 
fruit, chocolate, and corned beef are luxuries, and will 
have to be used sparingly, if taken in the quantities 
given above. Canned meats will be found most ac- 



i'^' AfOOSE/fEAD LAKE AXD I'JC/X/TV. 

c;c'i>tablc for lunc h, when you arc on the move ami do 
not or cannot stop long enough to cook. Flour will 
generally he found preferable to hard bread, as the 
latter is apt to become crumbletl on lK*ing moved 
from place to place. 

Some parties go into the woods with a notion tliat 
they are sure to get all the game they need for sub- 
sistence, and that it is therefore unnecessary to take 
more than enough flour, tVc. to give a pleas;int change 
to one's diet. This is a great mistake. Rely on your 
own larder, not on Nature's, and you will l)e much 
better off. 



CANOES AND THEIR USAGE. 

A good birch-canoe should be matle of tough bark, 
the eyes of whi( h are not easily broken, and there 
should not l)e any inecjualities or ** humps " on that 
part which is usually in the water, for the water by 
swelling them makes the "humps" more prominent, 
and thus more likely to Ik.' scraped or broken by con- 
tact with rocks. Nor should a canoe l>e what is vul- 
garly called " hog-l)acke<i," that is, lower in the mid<lle 
than at the ends. For general use it should l)e flat- 
lioltomcd, rather than have a slight keel. It will then 
ride in shallower water, and l>e les5 tickli.sh and more 
manageable. 

One can, with a little practice, learn how to padM* 
a canoe ; the sec ret of keeping a straight course lies 
in feathering the paddle at the end of the stroke. To 
be able to use the setling-poU skilfully rerpiires more 
study, not only to learn the eflect on the canoe of 



///Xrs 70 CAMPERS. 1 7 

each position and movement of tlic i)ulc, but also the 
a(l(htional effect on it of the current or '*set" of the 
water, and of gusts of wind, all of which must be 
" compensated," 

At all times a canoe should be so loaded as to be 
" trim," or perfectly level. A slight displacement of 
equlibrium is very annoying. 

When poling through rapids, the chief points to be 
borne in mind are to keep the bow j)retty well loaded 
(more so when going uj) than when coming down), and 
to kicp it poiutcd in a line pariillcl with the eurrent. In 
sinking the pole into the water, it should be held away 
from the side of the canoe, and in pushing laterally it 
shoukl be used from that side towarils which you 
wish the bow to go. Much less strength is needetl to 
push the bow around in this way, than to ///// it around 
from the other side, besides which it is much less 
dangerous. In the latter case the current may swing 
the stern against and over the pole, and the jar and 
pressure may send the canoe-man into the water, or 
make him droj) his pole. You should stand erect in 
the stern, with the left foot in front, and both feet on a 
line with the length of the canoe. Gras}) the pole 
with l)olh hands, the right uppermost, so that on the 
end of the push the left will be free to take hold 
higher up. This position is for poling on the right 
side. The pole may be shifted from side to side, and 
either end used, as emergency requires, but the end 
that is shod with a pick is alone reliable among slip- 
pery rocks. 

The i^osture of the man in the stern of a canoe is 
usually sitting on the rear thwart and rails behind it. 



l8 MOOSEirEAD LAKE AXD I'/C/X/TY. 

The bow-man's best position is kneeling on the bottom, 
his thighs supported by the second thwart. More work 
can be done in this position than if sitting on the 
thwart or on a seat behind it, althougli the latter is the 
more comfortable. The more lightly a canoe is loailetl, 
the more easily it can be overturned, and for this rea- 
son it is best for both the bow-man and stem-man to 
sit on the bottom of the canoe while on stonny water. 

The scope of this work will not admit of more gen- 
eral discussion of this topic. A little practice, and a 
wetting or two, will give one sufficient insight into the 
theory to enable one soon to be quite at home in a 
( anoe. 

l-'or leaks in the canoe a mixture of resin, and tal- 
low or other fresh grease, is generally use«I. A small 
(|uantity of grease is needed, more or less, accoriling 
as the water is cold or warm. If your mixture should 
be too soft, boiling will make it harder. It can be 
tested by putting a few drops on a (hip, and dipping 
it in the water. The bark must be (juite dry when it 
is apjilied, whi( h condition is best i)ro<luced by turn- 
ing over the (anoe and exposing it to the sun, or by 
holding a fire-brand near the injured j)art. And in 
this connection it may be said, that a canoe, when not 
VMjuired for use, should always be taken out of the 
water and turned over. While afloat, its bark be- 
( omes saturated with water, and increases verv huk h 
in weight. 

F'or the same reason, do not get sand intu )<.)ur 
(anoe. It gets down under the ribs, and cann(jt be 
removed. Wash o(T the soles of your shoes before 
you step in, and do not step in when by so doing your 




MOUNT KINEO— Pehi'.lk Jjkach. 



I 



IIIXTS TO CAMPEMS. 1 9 

canoe will be depressed on to sharj) rocks or gravel. 
This rubs the bark and makes the eyes crack. A canoe 
should be treated as carefully as if it were made of 
glass. 

If you should unfortunately get out of pitch, and 
have a leaky canoe, look for a large pine-tree, and cut 
a small horizontal trough in one side of it, about three 
or four inches deep, into which the resinous sap will 
run. lioil this down to the proper consistency, add 
grease, and apjjly hot with a small flat stick. If you 
have not time to do this, a substitute for pitch may be 
found in spruce-gum. 

It is dangerous to attcmi)t to sail in a canoe. When 
your c ourse is straight, you can sometimes })rofitably 
lash two canoes together, not so close that they will 
chafe, and, by means of a rubber blanket or coat, sail 
before the wind. In a single canoe a thick bush 
planted or held in the bow will greatly helj) to acceler- 
ate your si)eed before the wind. 

It may not l)e out of place to say here, never allow 
The man in the stern of a canoe to have a loaded gun 
by his side while you are in the bow. The reason is 
too obvious to need exjjlanation. 

GUIDES. 

Well-informed and reliable guides can be secured at 
prices ranging from one to two and a half dollars a day, 
according to the locality, and according to the length 
and difficulty of the trip in view. At Moosehead Lake, 
for services rendered jjarties staying at any of the hotels 
on the lake, the regular price is two dollars and a half 



20 MOOSEI/EAn LAKE AXD VICIXITY. 

and board, or three dollars, the guide to " find " him- 
self. For services from Moosehead on a trip where a 
canoe is likely to receive hard usage, three dollars i)er 
day and hoard may be asked, while for a long and not 
difficult trij) less than two and a half dollars and board 
may l)e reasonable comi»ensation. 

Away from Moosehead I^^ike, guide-hire is rarely 
more than two dollars a day, while at the Forks of the 
KennelK'c and at Sebec Lake good guides may be had 
for from a dollar to a dollar and a half a day, and 
board. 

'liie laws of supply and demand ai)ply lo guides and 
their compensation, as well as to other marketable 
" commodities," and ^'<;r^/ guides in the "season" are 
a|>l lo have little spare time on their hands to disj)ose 
of at less than the usual lo(al rates. Inferior guides, 
lacking in knowledge of the various routes and fish- 
ing grounds, can l)e had at a very low price. 

(iui<les who receive the above-named prices furnish a 
canoe and the necessary camp "kit," e.\< ept blankets. 
Sjjorlsmen j)rovide all the food needed. 

Cases have been not uncommon where men of 
])rominence in their own neighborhood have know- 
ingly recommended as comjietent guides jiersons of 
notoriously bad character, temjier, or incapacity. 
.\gain, some guides have wilfully imposed upon parties 
engaging them, and by misrepresentation, apathy, or 
()l)lK)silit)n to their wishes, have made an utter failure of 
what could otherwise have been a delightful trij), — one 
on which perhaps the participants had been building 
hopes of pleasure for months previously. Such jjractices 
do great injury lo those guides who conscientiously try 



HINTS TO CAMTERS. 21 

to make their employers realize their expectations of a 
pleasant vacation, and are apt to reflect on the entire 
fraternity, to their great discredit.* 

In this connection it may not be out of place to say 
a word about the treatment of guides. They may pic- 
ture in exaggerated language the hardshij^s of this or 
that i)articulaj trip, and dwell upon the advantages of 
some others, which they well know will recjuire much 
less labor on their part. You thus may be imposed 
ui)on, and may miss having a great deal of enjoyment. 
( let your information well digested before you start, and 
when your mind is once made up, push ahead. Let 
your guide understand, at the outset, where you mean 
to go, and that you expect hin\ to devote all his energy 
and experience to getting there. 

On the other hand, do not harass him in trivial 
matters. Some persons stand over a guide, when he is 
cooking, and object to this way of holding the frying- 
pan, or that way of turning the flippers, and perhaps 
in a majority of cases thoughtlessly annoy him when 
there is no necessity for it. 

Give your guide plenty of time to select a good 
camp-ground, and to prepare for the night. Favor 
him when you can. Keep your end of the canoe trim, 
and do not hesitate to get out and walk now and then, 
if by so doing you can avoid tearing or scraping the 
bark. 

* Visitors at Moosehead Lake can obtain reliable informa- 
tion about guides, from the superintendent of the Mt. Kineo 
House, and excursionists will do well, in all cases, to engage 
their guides a month in advance. 



22 .SfOOSEIJEAP I.Ah'E AXD VICIXITY. 



CAMP-GROUND. 

It is of the utmost importance for tourists to stop 
early enough, at the enfl of each clay, to select a good 
site for their camp, to i)itch their tent, and to get wood 
enough together to last over night. Many i)eoi)le do 
not seem to think how hard it is to do all of these things 
in the dark. Only an absolute necessity should induce 
l;ile <am|)ing. An hour before sunset is late enough to 
< ease paddling. 

A good camp-ground will be one with a good land- 
ing, — not a steej), mu(hly bank, — where there is 
])lenty of wood, good water, and where the ground is 
dry and level. .\ small tree or two may have to be cut 
down, and all roots and " humi)s " should be removed. 
They make themselves very j)rominent before morning, 
even when covered generously with boughs. 

The tent should be i)itched with the head to wind- 
ward, so that the smoke from the fire shall not be blown 
into it. It should also be well uniler shelter, in antici- 
])aii()n of high winds or heavy rain, and in a position 
where a heavy rain would not be likely to flood it. 

The ridge-p(jle and uprights should be well trimmed 
of all j)rojecting twigs which might make a hole in the 
tent, exce|)t that the uprights may have left on one side 
several such, on which to hang belts, cups, and the like. 
The uprights should be cut about nine feet long, with 
a slight note h on the ui)j)er end, and the lower end 
sharjKned. Drive them into the ground, by their own 
weight, and work them from side to side, thus enlar- 
ging and deepening the holes until the ])oles are sunk 
sufficiently to stand cnit of ground the height of the 



niXTS TO CAMPERS. 25 

tent. Then lay the latter out flat on its side, put the 
ridge-pole in its place, along the top of the tent, take 
down the uprights and insert them under the side of 
the tent, up against the ends of the ridge-pole, and, 
with one person holding each of the two poles, lift into 
a perpendicular position, and set them into their holes. 
They will usually stand alone while the pins (notched 
sticks) are being driven into the ground. 

A string stretched across the tent, just under the 
ridge-pole, will make a good clothes-line for socks, 
towels, and the like. Guns and rods can l>e stacked 
around the pole at the head of the tent, at night, and 
made secure by a straj). 

Tiie historic camp-bed is made of fir-boughs, laid 
down in rows with the under side up, and overlai)ping 
each other shingle fashion, the larger part, or stem, 
being covered by the adjoining layer. It re(iuires some 
knack to break off boughs from fir-trees. A quick snap, 
accomplished by the thumb and fore and middle fingers, 
does it. 

Tables and seats can be improvised, and with a small 
amount of labor a camp can be considerably embel- 
lished. Two rubber blankets stretched over a ridge- 
pole, which is laid on, and tied to, the branches of 
adjoining trees, make an excellent canopy for the table. 
To provide a seat, select two trees about four or five 
feet apart ; with your axe cut into them on the same 
side for several inches, about a foot and a half above 
ground. Then make several perpendicular cuts into 
this part of the trees, into which drive a wedge, which 
shall project about a foot, and a little above a horizon- 
tal. On these wedges lay poles cut the proper length, 
and you have your seat. 



24 MOOSE II HAD LAKE AXD VICIXITY. 

A candlestick may be made, by taking a stick as 
large round as your thumb, sharpening one end, spHt- 
ting the other, and inserting the candle, which will be 
held in place by the elasticity of the wood. If not, it 
can be tied with a string or withe. 

CAMr-FIRK. 

The rami)-rire should be built about six feet from 
the door of your tent. The large trunk of a tree, say 
five feet long and two feet in diameter, (or two smaller 
logs, one on toj) of the other,) makes your back-log, or 
reflector, while two smaller and shorter ones, placed at 
right angles to it, about four feet apart, make your 
" hand-junks," all of them preferably of hard wood. 
The a( tive or burning part of the fire will be between 
the hand-junks, and it may readily be lighted with 
birch-bark. Dry soft-wood is usually abundant. Dead 
wood found lying on the ground is apt to be wet and 
soggy, and will not bum readily. Pull down two or 
three small dead trees, which can cjuickly be cut or 
broken up in lengths to suit. This serves well to kindle 
your fire, after which hard wood will be found hotter 
and less crackly. 

The following woods are good for cooking, when 
dry, substantially in the order named : pine, fir, cedar, 
hemlock, and spruce. The last four kinds crackle con- 
siderably, and make a great (juantity of ashes. A dead 
and ])artially decayed hemlock will burn well, and will 
not crackle very much. 

All of the foregoing, when green, have a good deal 
of gum in them, except cedar, which splits easily, and 
is much used for tables, skin-stretchers, and the like. 





MOOSEHEAD LAKE — Squaw ^Mountain. 



f 



inXTS TO CAMPEA'S. 25 

Of the hard woods, rock-maple and yellow-birch are 
the hardest found in Northern Maine. The latter, 
being very tough, and usually growing to a much 
greater size than rock-maple, is good for back-logs and 
hand-junks, while white-birch is easily split, burns 
freely, but does not give as much heat as rock-maple 
or yellow-birch. 

COOKING. 

Having given the kinds of food suitable for ramj), 
and the (juantities of each to be provided, it may not 
be out of place to give a few hints as to its preparation 
for the table. 

Fish chowder is one of the readiest of camp dishes, 
as well as one of the most palatal )le. Clean your fish, 
cut it into pieces about an inch long, peel and slice 
your potatoes, not too thin, and put into your pail 
alternate layers of fish and potatoes, together with a 
small quantity of pork or bacon cut into small squares, 
and a quarter of an onion chopped fine. S-^ason each 
layer, as you put it in, with salt and pepper, and cover 
the whole with water. Boil about fifteen or twenty 
minutes, after which stir in one or two table-spoonfuls 
of condensed milk, add hard-bread, soaked or not, to 
suit the fancy, and leave on the fire a few moments 
longer. After the hard-l)read shall have been added, 
gTcat care should be taken that the mixture does not 
burn. 

For duck, partridge, or musquash stew, cut the 
meat into small pieces, and place it in a pail, two 



26 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AXD VICIXITY. 

thirds full of water, where it can boil gently. After 
half an hour or more, arconling to the tenderness of 
the meat, season to the taste, add two handfuls of 
pearled barley, and boil twenty minutes longer, taking 
care that the barley does not burn on the bottom of 
the pail. In the absence of barley, thicken with a 
little flour previously dissolved in cold water. 

For white bread, a small (juantity of baking powder, 
according to direc tions whi( h accompany the latter, 
and a ])inch of salt, should be thoroughly mixed with 
the flour, r/ry. Then add cold water, stir vigorously, 
and knead ad lihitum. Bread can be baked in a regu- 
lar baker, or in a frying-pan. The latter method re- 
(|uires good coals and a hot fire. Put the dough in 
the i)an, which has been previously greased, and set 
the latter on a small bed of coals, a foot or more from 
the fire, l^eave it there a few moments, until the 
under side shall have hardened enough to retain its 
shape. Then tilt the j)an up, and suj)port it by a 
< rotched stick stuck into the hole in the end of the 
handle. 'I'he bed of coals behind and underneath, 
and the fire in front, will soon cook the loaf, which will 
need watching ami turning. 

** Flippers," or " flap-jacks," are mixed like bread, 
except that a little more baking powder is used, and a 
good deal more water. 

Graham bread is made like wheat bread, except 
tliat a little sugar is added to the other ingredients. 
Any farinaceous article which contains sugar or mo- 



IIIXTS TO CAMPERS. 27 

lasses will, when baking, burn much more easily than 
one without sweets, and therefore needs more careful 
watching. 

A good johnny-cake, or suet-cake, can be made of 
Cfjual parts of wheat flour and corn meal. First mix 
in your baking jjowder, then cut up into small scjuares 
a i)iece of pork, try out the fat, and pour the whole 
into your pan with molasses and a little cold water. 
Stir briskly, and bake before a hot fire. 

Some persons prefer " prej)arod " flour for camp use, 
but the writer has always had the best of success with 
baking powders. 

For baked beans you need an iron pot with close- 
fitting cover, and a good dry bean-hole. The latter 
can be dug with the blade of your paddle, near the 
camp-fire. A fire should be made and kept ablaze in 
it for an hour or more, so as thoroughly to heat the 
ground. Pine bark, cherry, or black-birch sticks make 
good coals. 

Pick over the beans, put them into a pail of water, 
and set on the fire after, or during, supper. Parboil 
until the skin can easily be rubbed off the beans, when 
the water must be drained off", and the beans trans- 
ferred to their iron pot. Put a good piece of pork in 
the middle near the top, add two teaspoonfuls of 
molasses, and cover the whole with water. The coals 
should then be shovelled out of the hole,- a few being 
left on the bottom, the covered pot set in and sur- 
rounded by coals, on top and on the sides. Cover the 



28 MOOSEIIEAD LAKE AXD I'/C/X/TV. 

coals, in turn, with earth, and be careful not to leave 
any j)art uncovered, for the wind may fan the coals 
into too rapid combustion, and in the morning you 
will fmd your beans burnt. 

It is hardly necessary to add directions for makint; 
tea and coffee, boilinj^ or frying potatoes, or frying fish, 
except that fish should be put into the frying-j)an only 
after the grease is thoroughly hot. livery one is sup- 
posed to know how these simpler dishes are prepared. 
Should any camper-out fail of the requisite knowledge, 
let him once become hungry, really " cami)-hungry," 
and he will need no instnu tor. i'lie art of cooking 
will come of itself. 



DRESSING GAMF. 

The larger game of the woods is skinned by cutting 
through the hide, under the belly, from the tail to the 
nee k, and laterally up the four legs and around the 
knees and hocks. The skin is then stripped or cut 
from the body, the animal lying on its back. The 
layer of flesh under the belly is deceptively thin, 
'i'herefore, in cutting through it to take out the entrails 
care must be exercised not to cut them. Their connec- 
tion with the body is severed just back of the breast. 
The carcass should finally be washed thoroughly, and 
hung up by means of the sinews on the hind legs. 
All refuse matter should be buried at a long distance 
from camp. 

The brisket, or breast, the " back-half," a part of 
the fore-cjuarter which runs on the ridge of the back 



IIIXTS.TO CAMPERS. 29 

on either side of the spine and above the ribs, And the 
hind-quarters, are generally the best parts of large 
game, while in the moose the tongue, nose, and lower 
lip, and in the beaver the tail and liver, are considered 
great delicacies. 

The smaller fur-bearing animals, such as otter, mink, 
and musquash, are skinned by cutting across the end 
of the body from the hock of one leg to that of the 
other ; then the lower parts of the hind-legs are cut off 
without being separated from the skin, which is pulled 
down, on all sides, over the body of the animal, after 
the manner of a stocking. 

Trout are prepared for the frying-pan by being cut 
lengthwise along the belly, and having the entrails re- 
moved and the head and tail cut off. A pleasant flavor 
is imparted to them by hanging them where they will 
be in the smoke of the camp-fire for several hours. 

IIVniENIC NOTES. 

[The lollowiiig pages are taken, with the kind permission of 
Dr. Elliott Cones, U. S. A., from that gentleman's valuable work 
on " Field Ornithology," (Salem, Naturalists' Agency,) and the 
advice given in them cannot fail to prove serviceable, both to 
those who go into the woods to camp out, and to those who 
stay at home. It is here offered again to the public by the 
writer of this little book, with a grateful sense of the obligation 
he, in common with many others, is under to its author.) 

ACCIDENTS. 

Ahcays carry a loaded i^mi at half-cock, unless you 
are about to shoot. Unless the lock fiiil, accidental 
discharge is impossible, except under these circimi- 



30 MOOSE HEAD LAKE AXD I'/C/X/TV. 

stances : a, a direct blow on the nipple or pin ; b, 
catching of both hammer and trigger simultaneously, 
drawing back of the former and its release whilst the 
trigger is still held, — the chances against which are 
simply incalculable. Full-cock, ticklish as it seems, is 
safer than no-cock, when a tap on the hammer or even 
the heel-i)late, or a slight catch and release of the 
hammer, may cause discharge. Never let the muzzle 
of a loaded gun point toward your own person for a 
single instant. Get your gun over fences or into boats 
or carriages, before you get over or in yourself,, or at 
any rate no later. Remove caps or cartridges on enter- 
ing a house. Never aim a gun, loaded or not, at any 
object, unless you mean to press the trigger. Never 
put a loaded gun away long enough to forget whether 
it is loaded or not ; never leave a loaded gun to be 
found by others under circumstances reasonably pre- 
supposing it to be unloaded. Never i)ut a gun where 
it can be knocked down by a dog or a child. Never 
forget that, though a gunning accident may be some- 
times intcrpretable (from a certain standpoint) as a 
"dispensation of Providence," su< h arc dispensed 
oftenest to the careless 

The secret of safe cUmbhig is ii«.\cr lo relax one 
hold until another is secureil ; it is in spirit eciually 
aj)i)licablc to scrambling over rocks, a particularly diffi- 
cult thing to do safely with a loaded gun. Test rotten, 
slippery, or otherwise suspicious holds, before trusting 
them. In lifting the body up anywhere keep the 
mouth shut, breathe through the nostrils, and go 
slowly. 

In sK<itnming, waste no strength unnecessarily in 




MOl rH OF PINK STREAM. 



inXTS TO CAMPERS. 31 

trying to stem a current ; yield partly, and land 
obliquely lower down ; if exhausted, float, — the slight- 
est motion of the hands will ordinarily keep the face 
above water; and in any event keep your wits col- 
lected. In fording deei)ly a heavy stone will strengthen 
your ])osition. Never sail a boat experimentally ; if 
you are no sailor, take one with you or stay on land. 

In crossing a high, narrow footpath, never look lower 
than your feet ; the muscles will work true, if not con- 
fused with faltering instmctions from a giddy brain. 
On soft ground see what, if anything, h:is preceded 
you ; large hoof-marks generally mean that the way is 
safe ; if none are found, inciuire for yourself before 
going on. Quicksand is the most treacherous, be- 
cause fiir more dangerous than it looks ; but I have 
seen a mule's ears finally disappear in genuine mud. 
Cattle-] )aths, however erratic, commonly prove the 
surest way out of a difficult place, whether of uncer- 
tain footing or dense undergrowth. 



MIASM. 

Unguarded exposure in malarious regions usually 
entails sickness, often ])reventable, however, by due 
])recautions. It is worth knowing, in the first place, 
that miasmatic i)oison is most i)owerful between sun- 
set and sunrise, — more exactly, from the tlamp of the 
evening until night vaj)ors are dissipated ; we may be 
out in the daytime with comparative impunity where 
to pass a night would be almost certain disease. If 
forced to camp out, seek the highest and driest spot, 
put a good fire on the swamp side, and also, if possi- 



32 MOOSKIIEAD LAKE AXD VICIXITY. > 

Mc, let trees intcnene. Never go out on an empty 
stomach ; just a cup of cofTee and a crust may make 
a decitled difTerence. Meet the earliest unfavorable 
symptoms with (juinine, — I should rather say, if unac- 
climated, anticipate them with this invaluable agent. 
Endeavor to maintain high heallli of all functions by 
the natural means of regularity and temperance in diet, 
exercise antl repose. 

"taking cold." 

This vague "household word" indicates one or 
more of a long v;iried train of unpleas;int affections, 
nearly always trai cable to one or the other of only two 
causes : sudditi change of temperature, and unct/uai 
distnhution of temperature. No extremes of heat or 
cold can alone effect this result ; persons frozen to 
death do not " take cold " during the process. IJut 
if a part of the body be rapidly cooled, as by evapora- 
tion from a wet article of clothing, or by sitting in a 
draught of air, the rest of the body remaining at an 
ordinary temperature ; or if the tem|)erature of the 
whole be suddenly changed by going out into the cold, 
or, especially, by coming into a warm room, there is 
much liability of trouble. There is an old saying, 
" When the air comes through a hole, say your j)rayers 
to save your soul " ; and 1 should think almost any 
one could get a " cold " with a spoonful of water on 
the wrist held to a key-hole. Singular as it may seem, 
sudden warming when cold is more dangerous than 
the reverse ; every one has noticed how soon the hand- 
kerchief is reipiired on entering a heated room on a 



IlfXTS TO CAMPERS. 2>Z 

cold (lay. Frost-bite is an extreme illustration of this. 
As the Irishman said on picking himself up, it was not 
the fall, but stopping so (juickly, that hurt him ; it is 
not the lowering of the temperature to the freezing- 
point, but its subsecjuent elevation, that devitalizes the 
tissue. This is why rubbing with snow, or bathing in 
cold water, is required to restore safely a frozen part ; 
the arrested circulation must be very gradually re- 
esUiblished, or intlammation, periiaps mortification, 
ensues. (General i)recautions against taking cold are 
almost self-evident, in this light. There is ordinarily 
little if any danger to be apprehended from wet clothes, 
so long as exercise is kept uj) ; for the " glow " about 
comjjensates for the extra cooling by evaporation. 
Nor is a complete drenching more likely to be injuri- 
ous than wetting of one part. But never sit still wet ; 
and in changing, rub the body dry. There is a general 
tendency, sjjringing from fatigue, indolence, or indiffer- 
ence, to neglect damp feet ; that is to say, to dry them 
by the fire ; but this i)rocess is tedious and uncertain. 
I would say especially, off with the muddy boots and 
sodden socks at once, — dry stockings and slippers, 
after a hunt, may make just the difference of your 
being able to go out again or never. 

Take care never to check persi)iration ; during this 
process the body is in a somewhat critical condition, 
and sudden arrest of the function may result disas- 
trously, — even fatally. One part of the business of 
persi)iration is to ecjuali/e bodily temperature, and it 
must not be interfered with. The secret of much that 
is to be said about bathing when heated, lies here. A 
person overheated, panting it may be, with throbbing 



34 MOOSEIIEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

temples and a dry skin, is in danger partly because the 
natural cooling by evaporation from the skin is denied, 
and this condition is sometimes not Hir from a " sun- 
stroke." Under these circumstances, a person of fairly 
good constitution may plunge into the water with 
impunity, — even with benefit. But if the body be 
already cooling by sweating, rapid abstraction of heat 
from the surface may cause internal congestion, never 
unattended with danger. Drinking ice-water offers a 
somewhat parallel case ; even on stooping to drink at 
the brook, when flushed with heat, it is well to bathe 
the face and hands first, and to taste the water before 
a full draught. 

It is a well-known excellent rule, not to bathe imme- 
diately after a full meal ; because during digestion the 
organs concerned are comparatively engorged, and any 
sudden disturbance of the circulation may be disas- 
trous. 

The imperative necessity of resisting drowsiness 
under extreme cold recjuires no comment. 

In walking under a hot sun the head may be sensi- 
bly protected by green leaves or grass in the hat ; they 
may be advantageously moistened, but not enough to 
drip about the ears. Under such circumstances the 
slightest gitldiness, dimness of sight, or confusion of 
ideas, should be taken as a warning of possible sun- 
stroke, instantly demanding rest, and shelter if practi- 
cable. 

HUNGER AND FATIGUE 

are more closely related than they might seem to 
be ; one is a sign that the fuel is out. and the other 



IIIXTS TO CAMPERS. 35 

asks for it. Extreme fatigue, indeed, destroys appe- 
tite ; this simply means, temporary incapacity for di- 
gestion. But even far short of this, food is more easily 
digested, and better relished after a little preparation 
of the furnace. On coming home tired it is much bet- 
ter to make a leisurely and reasonably nice toilet than 
to eat at once, or to lie still thinking how tired you 
are ; after a change and a wash you will feel like a 
"■ new man," and go to table in capital state. What- 
ever dietetic irregularities a high state of civilization may 
demand or render practicable, a normally healthy })er- 
son is inconvenienced almost as soon as his regular 
meal-time passes without food ; and few can work com- 
fortably or profitably flisting over six or eight hours. 
Eat before starting ; if for a day's tramp, take a lunch ; 
the most frugal meal will appease if it do not satisfy 
hunger, and so postpone its urgency. As a small scrap 
of practical wisdom, I would add, keep the remnants 
of the lunch, if there are any ; for you cannot always 
be sure of getting in to sui)per. 



STIMULATION. 

When cold, fatigued, depressed in mind, and on other 
occasions, you may feel inclined to resort to artificial 
stimulus. Respecting this many-sided theme I have a 
few words to offer of direct bearing on the [bird] col- 
lector's case. It should be clearly understood, in the 
first place, that a stimulant confers no strength what- 
ever ; it simply calls the powers that be into increased 
action at their own expense. Seeking real strength in 
stimulus is as wise as an attempt to lift yourself up by 



36 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AXD VICLXirV. 

the boot-straps. You may gather yourself to leap the 
ditch and you clear it ; but no such muscular energy 
can be sustained ; exhaustion speedily renders further 
exi)eniliture impossible. But now suppose a very pow- 
erful mental impression be made, say the circumstance 
of a succession of ditches in front, and a mad dog 
behind ; if the stimulus of terror be sufficiendy strong, 
you may leap on till you droj) senseless. Alcoholic 
stimulus is a parallel case, and is not seldom pushed to 
the same extreme. Under its influence you never can 
tell when you arc tired ; the expenditure goes on, in- 
deed, with unnatural rapidity, only it is not felt at the 
time ; but the upshot is, you have all the original fatigue 
to endure and to recover from,////v the fatigue result- 
ing from over-excitation of the system. 

'I'aken as a fortification against col<l, alcohcjl is as 
unsatisfactory as a remedy for fatigue. Insensibility 
to cold does not imi)ly prote( tion. The fact is, the 
exposure is greater than before ; the circulation and 
resi)iration being hurrietl, the waste is greater, and as 
sound fuel cannot be immediately supplied, the tem- 
perature of the body is soon lowered. The transient 
warmth and glow over, the system has both cold und 
depression to endure ; there is no use in borrowing 
from yourself and fancying you are richer. 

Secondly, the value of any stimulus (excei)t in a few 
exigencies of disease or injury) is in proportion, not 
to the intensity, but to the ecpiableness and durability 
of its effect. This is one reason why tea, coffee, and 
articles of corresponding tpialities, are i>referable to 
alcoholic drinks ; they work so smoothly that their 
cffe( t is often unnoticed, and they "stay by" well; 




CHESUNCOOK LAKE. 



HINTS TO CAMPERS. 37 

the friction of alcohol is tremendous in comparison. 
A glass of grog may help a veteran over the fence, but 
no one, young or old, can shoot all day on whiskey. . . . 
Thirdly, undue excitation of any physical function 
is followed by corresponding depression, on the simple 
principle that action and reaction are equal : and the 
balance of health turns too easily to be wilfully dis- 
turbed. Stimulation is a draft upon vital capital, when 
interest alone should suffice ; it may be needed at 
times to bridge a chasm, but habitual living beyond 
vital income infallibly entails bankruptcy in health. 
The use of alcohol in health seems practically re- 
stricted to purposes of sensuous gratification on the 
part of those prepared to pay a round price for this 
luxury. The three golden rules here are, never drink 
before breakfast, never drink alone, and never drink 
bad liquor ; their observance may make even the 
abuse of alcohol tolerable. Serious objections for a 
naturalist, at least, are that science, viewed through 
a glass, seems distant and uncertain, while the joys 
of rum are immediate and unquestionable ; and that 
intemperance, being an attempt to defy certain physi- 
cal laws, is therefore eminently unscientific. 



1 



PART SrXOND. 

MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND IMME- 
DIATE VICINITY. 



BOSTON TO I5ANGOR. 

OxE can leave Boston, via the Eastern, or Boston 
and Maine, and Maine Central Railroads, at half past 
seven o'clock in the morning, arriving in Bangor the 
same evening, where a good night's rest may be en- 
joyed at any of the comfortable hotels of that city. 
The most expeditious way, and one perhaps as comfort- 
able as any, is to leave Boston at seven o'clock in the 
evening, taking the Pullman train on the Eastern and 
Maine Central roads, and arrive in Bangor early the 
next morning, in time to eat a good breakfast at the well- 
kept restaurant in the depot, or at one of the hotels, 
before proceeding further. Luggage is checked through 
from Boston to Blanchard, the present terminus of the 
Bangor and Piscataquis Railroad. 

The train of the European and North American 
Railway, which carries Moosehead Like passengers 
from Bangor to Oldtown, is made up at the Maine 
Central depot, and leaves it some ten minutes before 
the time advertised for starting (7:30 a.m.). The 



40 MOOSEIIEAD LAKE AXD \'ICL\1TY. 

depot of the Kuroj)can and North American Railway is 
a (luartcr of a mile beyond, on Kxt han;;e Street. 

One can go by water from Hoston to liangor, leav- 
ing the former j)lace at five o'clock, p.m., and reaching 
Bangor about noon the following day. Hy this route, 
however, one day and night are lost, as the afternoon 
train from Hangor to Hlanchard is a mixed one, and 
arrives at Hlanchard late at night. There are no night 
stages to (ireenville, and no hotel accommodations at 
l>lan( hard station, except su( h as the restaurant offers. 

HANGOR ro rilK LAKi:. 

Ix-Mving l^angor at half j)ast seven in the morning, 
the train carries one along the west bank of the Penob- 
scot, over the Kuro|>ean and North American Railway, 
twelve miles, to Oldtown. Mere from the car-wind4)w 
(an soon be seen, across the water, the Indian islan<l, 
with its church and numerous dwelling-houses. — an 
object of curiosity to all strangers. 

At Oldtown the train divides, and an engine \\\ 
waiting is atta( hed to the Moosehead I*ike cars, which 
it hurries over the liangor and Piscatacjuis Railroad, 
as fiist as j)rudence, and a regard for stray cows, will 
allow. 

In clear weather good views of Mount Katahdin 
can be had from South I^igrange and from Milo. 

The country through which the cars pass is pretty, 
although not specially interesting, until they near the 
town of Hlanchard. Russell Mountain and other jjeaks 
then aj)j)car on the left, frowning down on the valley 
of the i'iscatacjuis. The r{xid-l)e(l lies (jn the brow 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 41 

of a high ridgc to the cast of the valley, and affords 
many a picturesiiue view of the valley and mountains 
beyond. 

The cars arrive at Blanchard station between eleven 
and half past eleven o'clock, and, after having had 
an opportunity to lunch in the restaurant at the depot, 
passengers mount the stage, and for five miles climb 
over a number of hills which lie between Blanchard 
and Shirley. At the latter place the horses are watered, 
fares collected, and with a merry crack of the whip 
the stage i>roceeds. The six miles of road between 
Shirley and (ireenville are better than the other five, 
the hills shorter and less tedious, and, when within a 
mile or two of the lake, the scenery unfolds charmingly. 
Scjuaw Mountain looms up on the left, and the count- 
less peaks of the Lily Ray and Ebeeme ranges stretch 
away to the east.* 

GREENVILLE AND VICINITY. 

Greenville, a small village with one church and about 
two hundred inhabitants, is at the southern end of 
Moosehead Lake, on an ami called the East Cove, 
and is the focus of the logging operations on the 
upper Kennebec and Penobscot waters. Supplies are 
hauled from here in winter over or around the lake to 
the various k)gging cam])s, and all travel to and from 
the camps is through (ireenville. 

* A telegraph line is being built from Dover to Greenville, 
and is expected to he completed during the present summer. 
The railroad l)ed is soon to be graded beyond its present 
terminus, and pushed through to the lake. 



42 MOOSEIIEAD LAKE AXD VICINITY. 

Apart from the arrival and departure of the stage 
there is nothing, in summer or winter, specially to 
interest strangers in Greenville, more than in many 
other favorite country resorts. The view of the lake 
from the village is pretty, although circumscribed, but 
perhajjs the mountain-to])s, and the snatches of water 
visible among the rocky and wooded islets near at 
hand, awaken a larger anticipation of the scenes and 
enjoyment still to come. 

There are two hotels in Greenville, the Eveleth and 
Lake Houses, at either of which visitors are atten- 
tively cared for anil hospitably entertained. Guests 
can obtain teams at reasonable rates, with or without 
a driver, to make excursions to Wilson Pond or else- 
where in the neighborhood. Campers-out will find 
several good stores at Greenville, where they can get 
almost all the necessary articles of ( amp fare, or of 
camp etjuipage, including canoes. 

Near (ireenville there are a number ot i)onds an«l 
streams in which trout abound, and whi( h si)ortsmen 
frequently visit. The most noteworthy are the 

WILSON POMXS, 

the nearer of which is three miles distant, to the east. 
A good wagon-roatl runs two miles of the way, to a 
farm where teams can be left and baited. The other 
mile must be walked, and the path leads over the farm, 
down a stee|) bank to the lower and larger pond. Fish 
are taken here almost exclusively with bait, and it is 
said that when they bite here, they will not rise in the 
lake, and vice versa. Boats can be hired at fifty cents 
a day. 




MT. RATAHDIK, from Ripchilnus Lake. 



KENXEBEC WATERS. 43 

A boat-ride across the lower pond, and a short walk 
over a good path take one to the upper pond. One 
day is hardly enough to include a visit to this pond, if 
the excursionist expects to fish much. 

Gerrish Pond lies west of Lower Wilson Pond, about 
two miles from Greenville, and also furnishes some 
bait-fishing. 

Eagle Stream, two or three miles from the hotels, 
affords good fly-fishing. 

From Greenville a variety of pretty trips may be 
made on the lake, by sail-boat or canoe, to occupy 
as much or as little time as one wishes, and one can 
spend a few days in this neighborhood very pleasandy 
and quietly. 

FITZGERALD AND SQUAW PONDS. 

From Greenville it is about seven miles by water 
to Johnson's Landing (a mile west of North Squaw 
Brook), whence a good road leads, half a mile, direct 
to Fitzgerald Pond. From this point the ascent is made 
of Squaw Mountain, one of the finest peaks, and perhaps 
the most prominent, around the lake. Squaw Pond 
can be reached from West Cove by a path two and a 
half miles long, or one can go the whole distance over- 
land from Greenville, perhaps a mile further. A boat 
is usually kept at the pond. Squaw Brooks are not 
navigable by canoes. Fishing is sometimes good at 
their mouths, and in the ponds of which they are the 
oudets. 



44 MOOSE II EM) LAKE AM) I'lCIXITV. 

MOOSEHKAI) I.AKi:. 

\\M'\\ renewed visit to Muoseliead l^ike attaches one 
more firnily to its magic presence and lovely views, 
every feature of which offers the returning traveller an 
iiidescrihable wehome. Stretching here and there in 
irregular and broken ( onfusion, its coves and hays 
grope about, as it were, like the arms of a cephalo|)od ; 
studded with islands numerous as the days of the year, 
from the tiny ro< klet with its scanty, half-starved off- 
s|)ring of bushes, to the more extended area, covered 
with i)rodigal growths of fir and spruce ; surrounded 
by mountains whose soft outlines and ever-varying 
tints are objects of untiring admiration ; —these and a 
thousand other beauties that steal unconsciously into 
the spirit, paint a wondrous picture, and fill one's being 
with fervent thanks to the Creator. 

Moosehead L;ike, nine hundred and >i\ty feel above 
sea-level, is about thirty-eight miles long, and varies 
in width from one to fourteen miles. Several hotels 
and taverns have sprung up, here and there, on its 
shores, and of late years the continuity of its dark 
green forests has been brcjken by the bright patches 
of farm lands, and white farm-houses j)eei) up in many 
pla( es, to indicate the thrift of their sturdy owners. 

At (ireenville will be found boats of all descripticjns, 
irom canoes to steamers. Tourists go up the lake 
either in sail-l)oats, which are to let by the day or 
week with the senices of their owners, and as many 
mcjre guides as may be necessary, or they take passage 
on one of the steamers which i)ly regularly between the 
foot of the lake and Kineo. They make two trips a 



KENXEliEC WATERS. 45 

day, in the season, between these places, and twice 
a week go beyond Kineo to the head of the lake. 
Their captains are very obliging, and to accommodate 
parties often go out of their regular course, to the East 
Outlet, Spencer I5ay, and other points less distant. A 
steamer may at times be chartered for a day, or trip, at 
reasonable rates. 

Soon after the arrival of the stage, the steamer leaves 
its wharf, and threads its way among a number of small 
islands past Burnt Jacket on the right, into a-n oi)en 
expanse of water below Deer and Sugar Islands. 
Touching at Capen's Landing on Deer Island, half 
the journey (ten miles) is accomplished, and as the 
boat emerges from the narrow jjassage between the 
two islands, it enters the widest part of the lake. On 
the left, are the 

EAST OUTLKT, AND DAM, 

where the Kennebec resumes its course, previously 
interru|)ted by the lake at the mouth of Moose River. 
A small hotel here accommodates a goodly number 
of guests, who fre(iuent this Hivorite fishing-ground in 
Sei)teml)er. 

The KenneJjec is very ra])id immediately below the 
dam, and although a part of the distance between the 
dam and 

INDIAN POND 

is easy to run, it is considered safer to be hauled 
across, five miles, over a good road. On the right 
bank of the river about two miles below the dam is a 



46 MOOSE f/EAD LAKE AX I) I'lCIXITY. 

farm, where a team can be ^secured, to do the neces- 
sary hauhng. A road runs from the same farm to 
Churchill Stream. Indian Pond is divided into two 
parts, connected by a thoroughfare, and altogether is 
over three miles long. There is good fishing at the 
mouth of West Outlet Stream, in the thoroughfare, 
and at the outlet of the pontl. Below this point the 
river is wild and ** raggeti " for seven miles, and canoes 
seldom venture to brave the perils of its navigation. 

On the opposite side of the lake, Spencer Bay 
extends eastward four miles from narrows of the same 
nanu-. Into its upper K:\\y\ ki\w\A) Spencer lirook and 
l\(»a( h Kiver. The latter stream (lows some six or 
seven miles from 



KOACII r()M), 

and is rapid, rocky, and hard to navigate. A road 
lies on the right bank. The better way to reach the 
pond is by road from (ireenville. \ tavern stands on 
tile shore of Lily Bay, near the mouth of North Brook. 
I'Yom here to Roach Pond is seven miles, and to 
( ireenville, thirteen. A team can be procured at the 
Lily Bay House to haul one to Davis's, at the outlet of 
Koach Pond, where there is a substantial hotel and all 
the comforts which care and attention can provide in 
this isolated region. At the dam in the river, near 
the hotel, and in pools below the dam, and also at the 
upper end of the pond, good trout-fishing is to be had. 
(Jn the north of the brook at this end of the pond is 
a small log-camp. From the mouth of the same brook, 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 47 

on the south side, a good logging road leads a mile 
and a half or more, southeast, to Little Pleasant Pond, 
where there is good fishing. A half-mile or more be- 
yond is a larger pond, where the trout are larger. 

Between the First and Second Roach Ponds the 
stream is not very rapid, but full of gravel-beds, and 
apt, in summer, to be very shallow. On the south 
shore of the Second Pond, on the road from Katahdin 
Iron-Works to Chesuncook Lake, is a farm where one 
can get a meal, and, if needed, a supply of flour and 
pork. 

SPENCER POND 

empties through Spencer Hrook, two miles, into the bay 
of the same name. In low water a canoe will have tc 
be dragged up the brook, or carried over a good road, 
which lies to the west of it. At the western end of the 
pond, which is about a mile and a half in diameter 
and substantially round, is a bog where cranberries 
grow in profusion. The usual camping-ground is on 
the northeast side of the pond, diagonally across from 
the outlet, and about midway between the fishing 
grounds, — two small streams which come into the 
pond, one on the north, and the other at the southeast 
corner. The north brook is sometimes hard to find. 
Its outlet is concealed by several small grassy islands. 
A mile up the brook is Little Spencer Pond. Spencer 
Mountains lie to the east of the pond ; the nearer rises 
perhaps half a mile from its shore. They are both 
very steep, and hard to climb. Into Spencer Bay, on 
the west, empties a brook which comes from 



48 MOOSEIIEAD LAKE AXD I'/iWY/rV. 



LUCKY POND. 

This litllc sIk'cI of water is rather narrow, and al)oiit 
three (juarters of a mile long. It is a boggy place, and 
good ground f(jr deer and caribou. A canoe can run 
up the brook some distance in dead water, and one 
then steps out into the road whi( h runs up the right 
side of the stream to the dam, where it crosses and 
goes around the pond. It is only about fifty rods from 
the head of the " dead " water to the j^ond, and little 
more than a mile from the latter to the lake. 

Until the steamer leaves Deer Island, Mount Kineo 
has been hidden from sight. Little Kineo, however, 
to the east of it, resembles it so mu( h, in the distance, 
as to be mistaken for it. Six miles from Cajien's the 
steamer passes Hog IJack and S.ind Bar Islands on 
the left, and as it approaches its goal the indistinct 
cluster of white buildings at the foot of Mount Kineo 
is more easily sei)arated into its com|)onent parts. 
Two miles from Sand liar, Moody Islands are passed, 
on the right, and after two miles more the boat steams 
into the cove just east of the hotel, and is soon moored 
to its wharf. 

MOUNT KINEO, 

one of the largest hornstone mountains in the world, 
is midway up the lake, and, connectetl with its eastern 
shore by a narrow neck of land, forms quite a prom- 
ontory. A sheer precipice on the south and east 
sides, it falls away less abruptly towarils the west, and 




RIPOGENUS FALLS — LooKiNc. East, 



I 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 49 

slopes gradually to the north, aflbrding at its base very 
good farming land. On this slope, at Hard-Scrabble, 
is raised, each year, a considerable quantity of grain 
and hay, on which the Kineo House stock is fed. 

The eastern cliff of the mountain hangs over Kineo 
Bay. Its i^erpendicular heiglit above the water is over 
eight hundred feet, and the lake at its base is, in 
one place, more than eight hundred feet deep. 

From the clifl', skirting around northeast, runs a 
very i)retty beach, divided, by a stretch of rocky, 
wooded shore, into two parts, — Chff Beach, less than 
a mile from the hotel, and Pebble Beach, a mile and a 
half from it. From Table Rock off Cliff Beach, a few 
yards from shore, good fishing may be had late in the 
season. In fact, good fishing may be had, from canoes, 
all around Kineo Bay, and all the way around the 
mountain. 

The south cliff is inaccessible except in one place 
near the western end, up a rift in the rock, where by 
the aid of trees men can find foothold for a very steep 
climb. The descent of the mountain by this route, to 
the hotel, can be made in half an hour. 

The usual ascent is made from the southwest corner 
of the mountain, — Kineo Point, — and necessitates a 
boat-ride of about a mile from the "Three Sisters," — 
a group of pine-trees on the beach west of the hotel. 
Two and a half or three hours are enough to accom- 
plish the round trip comfortably, and the view one 
gets from the summit well repays the toil of climbing. 
A cool spring on the top furnishes refreshing drink to 
the thirsty. 

From a point on the water, between Kineo Point 
4 



50 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AXD VICIXITY. 

and the Throe Sisters, or perhaps a little further from 
shore than on the direct line between them, may 
be seen a good ])rofilc, on the southeast corner of the 
mountain. 



LEGEND. 

Moosehead I^ke, like many other places, has its 
Indian legends, and has been the scene of many a 
blootly encounter between dusky trilx?s of the past. 
At the nanows between Sugar Island and the main- 
land, parts of the St. John ( ?) and Penobscot tribes are 
said to have met in a battle, in \vhi( h the former were 
almost annihilated. 

The legend of Kinneho, the gloomy chief, and of 
his sciuaw-mother, Macjuaso, each of whom h:Ls given 
name to one of the prin( ipal mountains near Moose- 
head Lake, is not without pathetic interest. Kinneho, 
as a boy, grew up with more than usual Indian taci- 
turnity, and with ever-increasing gloominess of dispo- 
sition. His mother watc hed the (levelo|)incnt of these 
characteristics with anxiety and disappointment. He 
gave little heetl to her solicitude, neglected and 
avoided her, and even shunned the companionship 
of the members of his tribe. 

One morning Matiuaso disappeared. SMSj>icion of 
foul play at once fell on the undutiful son. Kinneho, 
although a brave warrior, was henceforth excluded from 
the councils of his tribe. He went forth, and for a 
long time was seen no more. One day, however, he 
suddenly reappeared in the midst of a severe fight, in 
which his old companions were being worsted. His 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 51 

efforts turned defeat into victory, and he disappeared 
again, as mysteriously as he had come. Months went 
by. A soHtary fire shone out, night after night, on the 
top of a mountain near the village of Kinncho's tribe, 
whose sides were all but inaccessible. No one dared 
approach the frowning rock, nor brave the anger of 
its dread inhabitant. 

The exile lived on alone, in remorse lest he had 
been the cause of his unhappy mother's disappearance. 
Night after night he kept vigil, his uneasy glance scan- 
ning the horizon, as if impelled by an unseen power. 
One night, afar off to the south, against the side of a 
mountain twenty miles away, he spied a twinkling light. 
The thought seized him that his mother must be there. 
Through the forest he made his way towards it. The 
next night the fire shone out again through the trees. 
He neared it, and there before him stood his long-lost 
mother. Leaping to her side, he grasped her aged 
form in his strong arms, only to see the gleam of recog- 
nition in her eyes, and to hear her dying sob, as the 
broken spirit passed away, peaceful at last. 

THE MT. KINEO HOUSE 

is on flat ground south of the mountain, and with its 
stables and dependencies, all painted white, stands out 
in marked contrast to the wildness of the surrounding 
scenes. Its spacious walls are capable of accommo- 
dating four hundred people, and in the season the 
house and grounds are alive with pleasure-seekers from 
the busy world without. 

Walking, boating, canoeing, bowling, croquet, and 



52 MOOSE HEAD LAKE AND VIC I XI TY. 

billiards are the principal pastimes of its guests. Be- 
sides the walks to Cliff and Pebble Beaches, which 
lead partly through pasture lands and partly through 
woods, and the climb up the mountain, there is little 
walking to be done. 

The Mystic (Grotto, a mile and a half from the 
hotel, where a cliff thirty feet high hangs over a shady 
spot in the woods ; the gold mine, a mile and a (juar- 
ter from the hotel ; and the Devil's Delight, at the foot 
of the cliff, are all near Cliff and Pebble Beaches, and 
serve to give a slight variety to one's ramblings. 

About a mile and a quarter from the Three Sisters, 
southwest, and off Birch Point, is a buoy, kept well 
baited in summer, where white-fish and " lakers " of 
considerable size are often caught. In nearly the 
same direction, a little more westerly, and a mile and 
a half from the Three Sisters, is the mouth of Moose 
River, ])roperly the Kennebec. Up the river for a 
mile and a half the water is *' dead," and offers a pretty 
morning or afternoon excursion. 

The paddle or sail around the mountain — six miles 
— is somewhat more of an undertaking, but enjoyable. 
A small boat is usually to be found on Cliff Beach, 
whi( h ])arties who walk over the neck can use, to row 
\mder the cliff, — i)erhaps a good substitute for a pad- 
dle around the mountain. 

In the other direction, east, one can paddle a quarter 
of a mile to Little (iull Rock, a mile and a quarter to 
Big (iull Rock, and two miles and a half to Cowen's 
Cove. The latter is principally noted for the abundance 
of frogs which live in the grassy land at its head. In 
the same direction, on the shore beyond Little Gull 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 53 

Rock is a miniature pond, separated from the lake by 
a strip of land a few feet wide, and at its upper end is 
a cranberry bog. This is the narrowest part of the 
neck. 

Moody Islands, two miles south of the hotel, furnish " 
at times good deep-water fishing. 

Guests of the Mount Kineo House, who go into 
camp for a few days, can have their rooms locked 
up during their absence, and are provided with pro- 
visions for the excursion. These include all the usual 
articles of camp-fare, such as pork, potatoes, flour, 
baking powder, hard bread, butter, sugar, coffee, tea, 
salt, pepper, and the like, but no canned goods. No 
reduction is made on the bills of persons who go in 
this way. The alternative is to give up one's room, 
buy one's provisions, and trust to good fortune to 
secure a room on one's return. 

Connected with the hotel at Kineo is a store, where 
all staple articles of food, and some luxuries, can be 
bought. The prices asked are just enough above 
retail prices at Greenville, or anywhere else, to cover 
the extra cost of transportation, and to leave a small 
margin for profit. 

Fishing tackle of good quality can be bought or 
hired of the superintendent of the hotel. 

It is to be hoped that the conservative spirit domi- 
nant thus far at Kineo, among its habitues, will still 
continue to shape its customs of plain dress and reason- 
able hours of rising and retiring. Gendemen can hve 
in woollen shirts, and appear in them at all times, with- 
out giving offence or appearing discourteous, while 
ladies are not obliged to make a change of toilet for 



54 MOOSEIIEAD LAKE AND VJCIXITY. 

each meal. Saratoga trunks and elegant dresses are 
deservedly frowned down, and are utterly out of place. 
Man comes here to renew his vital energy ; and his 
every impulse — let it be said to his credit — is to 
throw aside the questionable requirements of fashion, 
which in most summer resorts hamper his freedom, and 
tend to sap his vitality instead of quickening it. 

Besides the short excirrsions by water, already noted, 
one can paddle — or ride in the " Day Dream," a tiny 
steamer belonging to the Kineo House — about three 
miles south of the hotel, to the 



WES I" OUTLET. 

Much less water passes out of the lake here than at the 
other outlet, and consequently the stream, which runs 
nine miles to Indian Pond, is rapid, shallow, and rocky, 
except where broken by ponds. Of these there are 
eight or nine. The first lies within twenty-five rods of 
the lake, and is hardly more than a " logon." A like 
distance beyond the first is the second pond, which is a 
mile long and half as wide. The third is a small round 
j)ond, or perhaps more j)roijerly only a stretch of " dead " 
water in the stream. Beyond it, half a mile from num- 
ber two, is number four, twenty-five rods wide and half 
a mile long. Twenty rods more bring one into num- 
ber five, which is half a mile long and nearly as wide. 
T'he sixth lies twenty rods beyond, is round and deep, 
and has a rocky shore. The seventh is three quarters 
of a mile from number six, and is a mile long and 
about half as wide. At its foot used to be a dam, at 
Bodfish Falls. Canoes can be " drojjped " over the 




THE BIG HEATER, 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 55 

ledges here, which together are about six feet high. 
The mouth of Churchill Stream is just below the falls, 
and one must paddle up it a mile and a half to the dam, 
where the best fishing is to be found. 

A mile below Churchill Stream is a stretch of " dead " 
water, by some called the " Alder Ground," and by 
others Long Pond. It is a mile and a half long, and 
perhaps thirty rods wide. A short distance below it is 
Round Pond, the last of the series, and one of the 
largest, above which, on the left, at the mouth of a 
small brook, trout are to be found. It is a mile and a 
half or more from Round Pond into Indian Pond. 



BRASSUA I>AKE 

lies to the west of Moosehead, and its lower end is due 
west of Kinco. One goes up Moose River for a mile 
and a half, through " dead " water, to a small island, 
opposite which non-working members of a party take 
to the path on the north side, while the canoes push up 
the stream two and a half miles, through rapid water, to 
the lake. The worst places are the dam, and Sam's 
Pitch, a few rods above it. At the former it is well for 
the inexperienced canoe-man to get out and draw his 
boat up by the " painter " ; at the latter promptness of 
action only is needed. 

Brassua Lake is six or seven miles long, and from 
one to two wide. At its southwest corner, opposite 
the outlet, is the mouth of Miseree Stream, once, and 
even now, a good fishing-ground. It is navigable for 
only a short distance. The favorite camp-grounds 



56 MOOSE UK AD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

have always been on the south shore of the Lake. Into 
its northeastern end empties 



BRASSUA STREAM, 

quite a pretty little river, and which, with the exception 
of a short stretch of rapids two miles from the mouth, 
is navigable for three or four miles. In a little pond 
above the rapids, and in the stream beyond, are good 
feeding-grounils for ducks. Just below the raj>ids are 
good trout-holes and fair cami)ing sites. 

Midway up the lake, and flowing into it from the 
west, is 

MOO.sk RIVKR 

again. About two miles of smooth, deep water bring 
one to the mouth of Tom F'letcher Brook, a good fish- 
ing-ground, named after a trapi)er who was drowned in 
the rapids up the river. Report says he was trapping 
in the woods with two companions, and, at the close of 
the season, returned alone to camp one day, took all 
the fur, and hurried down stream with it. The judg- 
jnent of Heaven seems to have overtaken him, for his 
body was soon found some miles ])elow camj), and was 
buried at the mouth of tiie brook. 

.\ short dist;mce above this sjjot the river widens and 
forms Little Brassua Pond. Here are a number of 
gniss-islands, which afford play-ground to muskrats and 
hiding-places to ducks. 

From this point up, the river is rapid, and it re- 
quires a good deal of energy to stem its current with a 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 57 

loaded canoe. The Rolling Dam Ledge, a mile and a 
quarter above Little Ikassua, and just below Coburn's 
Farm, is an obstacle over which a canoe will have to 
be lifted. 

Three miles more of strong, and in some places rapid 
water, intervene before the dam is reached. Above it, 
for two miles and a quarter or more, the current is 
strong, but navigation is good. Stony Brook Rapids are 
about one hundred rods long. At the dam, and at the 
mouths of the several brooks which flow into Long 
Pond, good fishing may be had. 

LONG POND 

is some ten miles long, and of irregular shape. Its 
shores are attractive to the camper-out, and afford some 
very pleasing glimpses of landscape, with mountains in 
the background. Seven miles of a winding and sub- 
stantially smooth water-course lie between Long Pond 
and Wood Pond, although it is only four miles by land 
from one to the other. Moose River Bridge is half a 
mile below the latter pond, and over it passes the 
Canada Road.* 

TOMHEGAN RIVER 

empties into a cove about six miles from Kineo, on 
the west side of Moosehead Lake. It is an interesting 
stream, and well repays a visit. About two miles from 
the mouth, or perhaps less, are some "rips," above 
which " dead " water reappears for a time, and open 

* The description of Moose River above Wood Pond will 
be found in another place. 



58 MOOSE HEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

alder-land soon takes the place of dark, overhanging 
banks. A canoe will have to be carried arounel these 
"rips." Fishing can be had at the mouth, and in pools 
near it. From the " rips " a good road runs, some 
seven miles, up the left bank of the stream to the pond, 
around whose shores great (juantities of cranberries 
grow. 

Four miles from Tomhegan, and about seven north- 
west from Kineo, in an extensive bay, is the mouth of 



SOCATEAN RIVKK, 

one of the prettiest streams that empty into the lake. 
Its water near the mouth is without jierceptible current, 
black, antl apparently deej), and its banks are sj)rinkk(l 
with graceful hackmatacks, and fringed with bright- 
hued grass, mingling, at the water's edge, with lily- 
j)ads. 

Four miles uj) the stream are the Falls and Pool, 
formerly a fiivorite resort for camping j^arties, but not 
so popular since the ravaging fire which ran through 
the forest there several years ago. Fishing is good 
at the mouth, and here and there up the stream, es- 
pecially above the Pool and at the upper Falls, which 
are three miles from it. A good road runs up tlie east 
side of the stream. 



DUCK COVE, 

on the east shore of the lake, midway between Kineo 
and the Northeast Carry, and about ten miles from 
the former, lies under the shadow of a small mountain. 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 59 

Back of it, and on an open road half a mile long, is a 
pond, where of late years fishing has been good. The 
road begins on the south side of the brook. 

Baker Brook, in a deep cove just above the mouth 
of Moose River ; Moose Brook, above Socatean Point, 
and Williams Stream, opposite Centre Island, — all of 
them on the west side of the lake, — afford more or 
less fishing, but the " catch " is apt to be small in size, 
if not in numbers. 

The lake, after growing wider near Kineo, narrows 
again at Socatean Point, between which and Farm 
Island is a stretch of water known as the Devil's Blow- 
hole. The wind is ever contrary here, causing " chop- 
waves " in profusion, and is consequently annoying to 
canoe-men. 

Beyond Socatean Point is one unbroken expanse of 
water, almost as far as the eye can reach, the land at 
the head of the lake being so low as to be scarcely 
distinguishable. 

Shaw's farm-house, opposite Socatean Point, is the 
only habitation on the lake above Kineo, until one 
reaches the Northeast and Northwest Carries. 




MT. KAIWMDIN, i ko.m Sant>\ Sirkam. 



TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 



NORTHEAST CARRY. 



A SMALL hotel stands on the shore of Moosehead 
Lake, at the end of the Northeast Carry, and affords 
comfortable accommodation and good fare to a limited 
number of guests. The steamer lands its passengers 
here twice a week, on Tuesdays and Fridays, and they 
dine at the hotel. 

Tourists can have their canoes and luggage hauled 
over the carry, two miles, to the Penobscot, for a dollar 
and a half each. There are two teams to be had, one 
at the hotel, and the other from Joe Morris's farm, at 
the other end of the carry. Each team can take two 
canoes and their luggage at a load. The road rises 
gradually towards the middle from each end, and is 
pretty level, but wet and muddy after a rain. 

Blueberries grow in profusion in this neighborhood, 
and the remains are still visible of an old tram-way 
over which formerly lumbermen's supplies were hauled 
to the Penobscot. 



62 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

WEST BRANCH OF THE PENOBSCOT, GOING 
DOWN FROM NORTHEAST CARRY. 

Leaving Morris's, where the river is deep and skig- 
gish, a two-mile paddle through *' dead " water brings 
one to the mouth of Lobster Stream. Below here there 
is a strong current with some '* rips " for two miles and 
a half more, when a small island is reached, where the 
water again becomes " dead." Three and a half 
miles more of unvaried still water bring one to Moose- 
horn Stream, a small tributary on the right. From this 
l)oint to the head of Pine Stream Falls (seven miles), 
there is very little still water, the distance to Chesun- 
cuok L:ike being made up of the following stretches, 
viz. : — 

Mooschorn to Sears's Clearing (on the riglu) 2m. 

Sears's to Ragmuff Stream (on the left) . . %\w. 

RagmufT to head of Big Island \\^x\\. 

Big Island to Fox Hole +/^m. 

Fox Hole to head of Rocky Rips .... 2^m. 
Head of Rocky Rips to foot of Bine Stream Falls i '/^m. 
Foot of Pine Stream Falls to Chesuncook Lake 2m. 

Go to the right of Big Island, at the head of which, 
for a few rods, the river is rather shallow, but, except 
in dry seasons, there is depth enough to carry at least a 
canoe and luggage safely through to Fox Hole. Here 
the channel turns sharply to the left, lying within two 
feet, or less, of the left bank, and soon deepens again. 

All the way from Morris's to Chesuncook Lake 
there runs along the right bank of the river a good 
road, which will be found very convenient to those 
who have to walk past shallow parts of the stream. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 63 

From the head to the foot of Rocky Rips is, per- 
haps, half a mile. Looking back from below them, 
when the river is at its ordinary summer height, no 
water can be seen in it at all, so thickly is its bed 
sprinkled with rocks and boulders. 

A short stretch of dead water, containing several 
small grass-islands, separates Rocky Rips from Pine 
Stream Falls, the worst place in this part of the river, 
lliere are three principal *' pitches," or falls, followed 
by perhaps three quarters of a mile of strong rapids. 
The writer's experience has been that it is better to go 
over the first pitch in the middle of the stream, then 
to the left over both the second and third pitches, but 
the height of the water at different times may make it 
expedient to change this course. In very high water, 
an easy passage by all diree pitches may be found 
close to the left bank. 

Rounding a bend about a mile below the rapids, 
one comes upon a huge pier in the river, and' at about 
the same time bursts upon one's sight the glorious 
Katahdin group of mountains, twenty miles to the 
east. 

Fair camping-grounds may be found here and there 
along the river, a convenient one being just above 
Pine Stream Falls on the left bank, nearly opposite the 
mouth of Pine Stream. 

Of all the tributaries of the West Branch, passed in 
these eighteen miles. Lobster Stream is the only one 
navigable for any considerable distance, the water in 
it being deep enough to admit of easy passage to 
Lobster Lake, two miles away, even in times of 
drouth. 



64 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

There is little fishing to be had on this route, except 
at Fox Hole, in a small inlet on the left, where there 
are supposed to be cold springs, and on the right and 
left among some small grass-islands below Pine Stream 
Falls, where there is quite a gravel-bar in the river. 

It takes, ordinarily, a little more than two hours to 
go from Morris's to Moosehorn, and from there to 
Chesuncook Lake from four to five hours more. 



LOBSTER LAKE 

is so called from the little fresh-water lobsters, or craw- 
fish, with which its waters abound. So level is its 
outllowing stream, that, after a heavy rain and rise of 
the West Branch, the former flows back. The lake is 
elbow-shaped, and its northern shore is marshy, while 
that of the lower arm is bolder, and rocky formation 
predominates. Several cold streams flow into it from 
the south, and jjleasing camp-grounds offer themselves 
on the west. Few fish are to be found there. Fine 
views of Spencer Mountains and Mount Katahdin can 
be had from the middle of the lake. 

A trip of three or four days, to this place, makes a 
pleasant excursion from Kineo. 

CHESUNCOOK LAKE, 

a " bulge " in the Penobscot, as it has been properly 
called, is eighteen miles long, and from one to three 
miles wide. It is without special attraction, save the 
glorious view it offers of old Katahdin, and, when 
head-winds are blowing over its surface, becomes quite 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 65 

an obstacle to rapid, or even moderate progress, on 
the part of the canoe-man. 

From five to six hours are usually consumed in pad- 
dling over this lake, which time is increased or dimin- 
ished according to the direction of the prevailing wind. 

A temporary camping-ground may be found near 
Weymouth Point, or opposite and a little above it, on 
a small sandy point, near which is a cold brook. 
Meals and lodging are provided at Murphy's (now 
Hatheway's), at the head of the lake. 

Among other streams flowing mto Chesuncook Lake, 
and not elsewhere described, are Moose Brook and 
Caribou Stream. 

MOOSE BROOK 

flows from a pond of the same name about a mile 
from the lake. Its water is dead, and a canoe can be 
taken up through it into Moose Pond, and from there 
through more or less quick water to Cuxabexis Lake. 
Between Moose and Duck Ponds it is somewhat 
harder for a canoe to go. There is a dam at the out- 
let of Cuxabexis Lake, and good camping-ground may 
be found near its western end, towards the south. 
This group of ponds is seldom visited by sportsmen, 
and little is known of their attractions in the way of 
fish and game. 

CARII30U LAKE 

lies to the southwest of Chesuncook Lake, and is 
connected with it by a "dead" stream about two 
miles long, which in some places is broad and covered 

5 



66 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEIIEAD LAKE. 

with lily-pads, and makes a good feeding-ground for 
ducks. The lake is seven miles long. Its shores 
offer few inducements to campers. Several streams 
empty into it, in which there is some fishing to be had 
early in the autumn. 

RIPOGENUS LAKE. 

At the lower end of Chcsuncook I^ake the river 
narrows again for half a mile, flows over a succession 
of falls, and again widens into Ripogenus Lake. At 
Chesuncook dam, and in pools below it, good trout are 
often taken, and occasionally a salmon. 

The carry lies several rods south of the dam, and is 
a good solid road. Canoes may be put into the 
stream at the end of half a mile, but the most of one's 
load will have to be carried a quarter-mile further to 
the shore of the lake, in order to avoid the dangers 
of the intervening rapids. From and at the head of 
Ripogenus Lake loegins a series of views of Mount 
Katahdin and the Sourdnahunk range, which fairly 
enchant the lover of nature. Ever shifting as one 
moves on, now hidden by forest or intervening ridge, 
now bursting suddenly forth again in greater majesty, 
old Katahdin's silent and more vivid presence excites 
our awe and commands our admiration. 

Ripogenus Lake is two miles long and a mile or 
more broad. It is a favorite camp-ground for tourists 
going down the river, and, aside from the picturescjue- 
ness of its situation, has ciuite an attraction in the 
wildness of the river at its foot. 

Good lishing may be had off the mouth of Frost 




- ' • "C 



MT. KATAHDIN — Southwest S 



LIDE, 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 67 

Brook, and in pools below the lake. There is a cold 
spring in a cove on the south shore near the outlet. 



HARRINGTON LAKE. 

Into the northwest corner of Ripogenus Lake flows 
a stream of the same name, whose bed in summer 
ordinarily contains too little water for successful navi- 
gation. At high water, however, a canoe can be poled 
and led over rapids for four miles to the dam. Island 
Falls, a pitch four feet high, is about midway between 
Ripogenus Lake and the dam. Above the dam there 
is dead water for nearly two miles, then half a mile of 
quick water, followed by a small pond, and a rocky but 
smooth stretch of water which opens into Harrington 
Lake. A good path runs on the right side of the 
stream up to the dam, where it meets the road from 
Chesuncook Lake and continues on the same side up 
Harrington Stream almost to the lake, crossing between 
the latter and the small pond already mentioned. 
From this point it follows Soper, or Wadleigh, Brook 
on the west for two miles, crosses at a dam, and runs 
up the east side, along a three-mile bog, nearly to 
the source of the stream. It runs within two miles of 
Sourdnahunk Lake. 

Harrington Lake is about three miles long and one 
mile wide, and lies prettily surrounded by hard-wood 
ridges, which afford many good camping-grounds. On 
the southwest shore, about two thirds of the way up 
the lake, and over a ridge, is a small pond where trout 
are said to abound. 

Flowing into the lake at its head is a small stream, 



68 7VUKS BEYOND MOOSE HEAD LAKE. 

which connects it with two small ponds a mile or 
less apart, the second pond being half a mile from 
Slaughter Pond, whose waters flow into the West Branch 
through Sourdnahunk Stream. Harrington Lake is 
reached, perhai)s most easily, from Chesuncook Lake, 
by the road above mentioned. 

FROST POND 

lies about two miles north of Ripogenus Lake. A fair 
road leads to it from near the mouth of its outflowing 
brook, and to the east of it. The pond contains plenty 
of small trout, but without a canoe or raft it is hard to 
get at them, so densely wooded are the shores, to the 
very water's edge. The top of Katalidin is visible from 
the west shore of the pond. 

WKST BRA NX H OF TlIK PFXOliSCOT, liFLOW 
RIPOGENUS LAKE. 

The outlet of Ripogenus Lake is ordinarily a narrow 
and deep gorge, where the water foams and hisses in 
its rapid course between walls of rock. After freshets, 
the river flows over a broader channel to the right, or 
south, of the entrance to the gorge, leaving quite a high 
and wooded island between the two. From this point, 
for a mile and a half, a good path runs along the river- 
bank, and enables one to get a fine view of j^erhaps the 
most wonderful, if not the most interesting, part of the 
Penobscot. Nearly the entire distance is a gorge with 
steep cliffs on either side, over a hundred feet high, in 
some places overhanging the stream, and with isolated 
masses of precipitous rock between them, whose tops 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 69 

are level with the banks on either side, and covered, 
like them, with ferns and blueberry-bushes. The water 
seems to have worn away the rock and soil around 
these islands, giving them the shape of an old-fashioned 
flat-iron, whence they derive the names of Big and 
Little Heater. The river pitches through this gorge in 
a succession of rapids, — none very high, but together 
making a fall of two hundred feet or more. 

The carry from Ripogenus begins at the lower end 
of the lake, to the right of the outlet. At the end of a 
mile one descends a short hill, and on the right can 
be seen from the road 



CARRY POND, 

which used to be famous for its trout. In the absence 
of canoes a raft formerly served indifferently to bear 
people across the pond to the spring-hole where the 
fish lay. This pond has been so thoroughly fished of 
late years, that its supplies may not now always prove 
equal to the demand made upon them. 

Half a mile from Carry Pond, on the road, is a large 
boulder on the brow of a steep descent. It lies in the 
middle of a small clearing, and from its top one gets a 
wide prospect over the valley below, and a fme view 
of Katahdin. 

At the foot of this steep descent, and beyond a small 
brook, a path turns off to the left and leads to the 
" putting-in place," below which is a cold spring. 
Half a mile further brings one to an old river-drivers' 
camp, from which another path leads down the bank 
to the "Arches," — another difficult and dangerous 



yo TOURS BEYOND MOOSEIIEAD LAKE. 

impediment in the river. From here it is a mile to the 
end of the carry. 

Canoes may take to the water again at tlie "put- 
ting-in place," but the stream below is dangerous, and 
there are three places where one has to lift over. 
Around one of them, the Arches, one must carry for 
thirty or forty rods on either bank. It is safer and 
more expeditious to carry over the whole three miles 
of road, than to attempt to run the river below the 
'' ])utting-in ])lace." A brook, the outlet of Carry Pond, 
empties into the river at the last-named point ; the path 
to the latter crosses it twice after leaving the main road. 

Once fairly embarked below the carry, one glides 
easily down stream through ra})id water, lifting over 
one rocky pitch, and at the end of two and a half 
miles or more reaches Gulliver Pitch or Ambajemacko- 
nuis Carry. This carry is about one hundred rods long, 
and begins at the foot of a steep descent in the river- 
bed, in a very rocky bend on the right. 

Below Ciulliver Pitch begins the dread " horse-race," 
which extends for nearly two miles, to within half a mile 
of dead water. The river is impetuous, and its bed 
ledgy, — refusing setting-pole hold. On all sides are 
dangerous rocks to be avoided, which call forth the 
canoe-man's skill, and put his nerve to the test. With 
care, however, one can run these rapids in safety, and 
will soon find himself in 



SOURDNAHUNK DEAD-WATER, 

one of the most attractive camping-grounds on the 
route. The river widens out considerably, and par- 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 71 

takes of the character of a miniature lake, with a grassy 
" logon " on the right. It is a mile and a half to its 
lower end, where one gets a very fine view of Katah- 
din to the east, and a pretty but less pretentious picture 
to the west. 

A good path follows the river on the right bank, as 
far as the dead water. There is a good spring on the 
same side, at the foot of the " horse-race." 

Leaving Sourdnahunk (sometimes pronounced Sowa- 
dehunk) Dead- Water, a short run brings one to the 
carry of the same name, on the left. Care should be 
taken not to overlook and run past it, as the stream 
immediately beyond looks smooth, and a canoe once 
in the current might easily be swept along and over the 
falls (five feet), with serious consequences. Just below 
the carry, which is less than thirty rods long, and on 
the same side, is a good spring. Half a mile below the 
falls is the mouth of Sourdnahunk Stream, below which 
for two miles one finds good canoeing, mostly through 
" dead " water, to the mouths of Aboljackomegus and 
Sandy Streams. At this point parties usually camp 
who intend to make the 

ASCENT OF MOUNT KATAHDIN. 

From a short distance up Sandy Stream — the more 
easterly brook — the path runs four or five miles over 
intervening ridges to the base of the mountain ; the 
ascent thence continues up the slide on the southwest 
side of the mountain. It is perhaps less fatiguing to 
leave one's camp on the river bank early in the after- 
noon, with blankets, axe, and enough food for two 



72 TOi'RS BEYOND MOOSE HE AD LAKE. 

days, — as light a load as possible, — and camp that 
night at the foot of the slide, or at the brook about a 
mile from it. With an early start the next morning, 
one can in three hours climb (at an angle of about 
sixty degrees) to the broad table-land, near the lop of 
the mountain. 

Here will be found, under and at the sides of several 
large rocks, springs or j)ools of water, cool, but of indif- 
ferent taste. There is said to be another and better 
spring |)art way up the slide, and to the east of it. As 
one ascends the mountain, vegetation becomes stunted, 
and disappears almost altogether just before the table- 
land is reached. A thick bed of dry moss covers the 
table-land, and a few dead and snarly roots scattered 
over it furnish scanty fuel to those who wish to make 
a cup of tea, or to warm themselves. The summit of 
the mountain is about a mile east of the springs, and 
the ascent to it is gradual and easy. A flat surface of 
not more than twenty feet in diameter forms the west- 
ern peak. To the west of it lies the table-land. On 
the east, perhaps a quarter of a mile, is another i)eak, 
said to be ten feet lower than the first. Between the 
two is a ridge so narrow, that one step towards the north 
would send one into eternity over a sheer precipice 
hundreds of feet high. On the south side, the moun- 
tain, although not so precipitous, is exceedingly steep, 
and a misstep might result in as certain, though not so 
quick, a death. When the wind blows with any consid- 
erable force, one can cross from peak to peak only by 
creeping. From the eastern peak a spur of the moun- 
tain runs northeast for some distance, and has appar- 
ently the same general characteristics as the ridge just 




MOUNTAIN BROOK — Path to Katahdix 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 73 

described. Surrounded by these walls and by Wassa- 
taquoik or Pomolah Mountain on the northwest, is a 
deep basin containing several ponds, one of which with 
no visible outlet is said to be so deep as never to have 
been fathomed by any ordinary sounding-line. 

On a clear day, it is said, one can see from the top 
of Katahdin five hundred distinct and separate pieces 
of water. Millinokett Lake and Katahdin Pond are 
perhaps the prettiest bodies of water near at hand. 

They who go up the mountain should be provided 
with extra warm clothing, as the change of temperature 
from below is apt to be very marked, and sometimes 
severe. At other times, however, the sun seems hot- 
ter on top than at the bottom of the mountain, but 
this is very exceptional. Ladies have climbed Katah- 
din, but only the strongest can do it. 

From the summit to the foot of the slide one can 
descend in an hour and a half, and from the latter 
point to the river in two hours and a half more. 

There is fishing at the mouth of Sandy Stream, — 
for eels as well as for trout. 

Half a mile below Abol. Stream one comes to Abol. 
Falls, and a mile beyond to Pockwockamns Falls. At 
each place the carry is on the right, and less than half 
a mile long. Pockwockamus Dead- Water, above the 
falls of the same name, is narrow and crooked, and 
contains two or three islands. From it, as well as 
from varrous other points on the river below it, good 
views are obtained of Katahdin, which slowly recedes, 
and whose oudines gradually grow more dim. Below 
Pockwockamus Falls is Katepskonegan, or Debsco- 
neak Dead-Water. It extends about three miles, to 



74 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEIIEAD LAKE. 

falls of the same name, around which through the 
woods, on the right, is a good carry, three quarters of 
a mile long. 

The river is substantially " dead " below these falls, 
for four miles, and in one place is almost a mile wide, 
and has several islands in it. 

Passamagamock Falls, at the foot of the dead water, 
may be run on the setting-pole, or the carry on the 
left can be used. Above and below them ponds cmi)ty 
into the river through streams navigable by canoes. 
Two miles intervene between I'assamagamock Falls 
and Anibajcjus Falls, which can also be run, at low 
water. In high water, however, it is dangerous for 
heavy-laden canoes to attempt i)assage. The carry 
lies on the left, and is about half a mile long. Below 
the falls, a half a mile, the river opens out into Am- 
bajejus Lake, a pretty sheet of water some four miles 
long. It is in two j)arts, connected by a thoroughfare, 
the lower part being much the larger. 

A narrow i)a.ssage divides Ambajejus Lake from 
Pamedomcook Lake, tjuite a large body of water, 
only one end of which is crossed in going down the 
river. 

Two miles or more lead one into another passage 
between Pamedomcook and North Twin Lakes. The 
shores here are so cut up into bays and coves, reach- 
ing here and there in confusion, that it is hard to tell 
when one is going amiss. 

Four miles through North Twin Lake, and two miles 
down the river, bring one to the dam, where at a house 
on the bank one can oljtain a good meal. 

From the North Twin dam ])assing through Quakish 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 75 

Lake one mile, and through a mile of rapid water 
below it, one comes to Fowler's Carry. This is two 
miles long, and at the other end of it a team can be 
obtained to haul canoe and luggage across to Milli- 
nockett Stream. A mile of easy canoeing down this 
stream takes one into Shad Pond, the last " bulge " of 
any consequence on the river. Twelve miles of rapid 
water, accomplished in three hours, bring one to the 
mouth of the East Branch, whence it is twelve miles 
more to Mattawamkeag, where one takes the cars for 
Bangor. 

By making the carry at Fowler's, one avoids twelve 
miles of very rapid water, and saves much time and 
lal)or. Grand Falls, on this part of the riv^r, is about 
twelve or fifteen feet high, and can be visited most 
easily by i)addling through Shad Pond and up the river 
for a mile and a half. 

To the lover of scenery, this tour down the West 
Branch offers perhaps more attractions than any other 
in that part of Maine. There are, to be sure, many 
carries to make, but the wildness of the river, the pic- 
turesqueness of the lakes within easy access of it, and 
the grandeur of Mount Katahdin, which continually 
discovers some new feature, together form a combina- 
tion of enjoyments seldom to be found. 



RfiSUMfi. 

Chesuncook Lake to Dam lynri. 

Dam to Ripogenus Carry i^^nx. 

Ripogenus Carry 3m. 

Ripogenus Carry to Ambajemackomus Carry . lyivcv. 

Ambajemackomus Carry to Sandy Stream . . 6}4m. 

Sandy Stream to Ambajejus Falls I5ni. 



76 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

Ambajejus Falls to North Twin Dam .... 14m. 

North Twin Dam to Shad Pond 5m. 

Shad Pond to Mattawamkeag 25m. 

JO MARY LAKES. 

There are three lakes in this chain, — West, South, 
and Big Jo Mary. The first, or West Jo Mary, Hes 
southwest of the others, and is over half a mile from 
South Jo Mary. Canoes have to be carried across 
from one to the other. Between South and Big Jo 
Mary there is a thoroughfare of forty rods or more in 
length. At times the water in it is substantially " dead," 
— at others, quick. 

From Big Jo Mary to Pamedomcook Lake is a mile 
and a half or more, by the stream, which is partly 
navigable by canoes. A good road runs from one lake 
to the other near the stream. 

NAHMAKANTA LAKE 

is most easily reached from Pamedomcook Lake. 
The stream which connects the two is about seven or 
eight miles long, and for two or three miles is navi- 
gable. Canoes and luggage will have to be carried 
about four miles over the old carry road, on the north 
side of the stream. The lake is a very attractive sheet 
of water some four miles long, and into its northern 
end flow two streams. The more easterly comes from 

RAINBOW LAKE, 

and is four miles long. Its water is " dead " for about 
a mile and a half from the mouth, up to a dam. Above 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 77 

this point the stream is shallow, but the monotony is 
broken by several small ponds, which lessen one's 
labor considerably. A good road runs up the east 
side of the brook, and it may be advisable, if the 
water is low, to carry from the head of dead water to 
the lake. Rainbow Lake is considered one of the 
prettiest in the neighborhood, both from its own in- 
herent charms, and from the fine views of surrounding 
mountains to be had from its shores, and from a ridge 
just north of it. If one follows up for two miles the 
other brook which empties into Nahmakanta Lake, 
one comes into Female Pond, whence it is easy to 
reach, by canoe, Pollywog and Muskrat Ponds, and 
to ascend for some distance the stream which comes 
from Penobscot and Wadleigh Ponds. 

MILLINOKETT LAKE 

is most easily reached from Ambajejus Lake, by a 
short carry which begins at the head of a grassy cove. 
The lake is very picturesque, and is studded with 
pretty islands, which, in combination with the glorious 
views of Katahdin and surrounding mountains, make 
it a very attractive spot for artists. No trout are in 
its waters, and the brook which is its outlet is about 
twelve miles lonsr and unnavi enable. 



NORTHWEST CARRY. 



Carry Brook, a small stream in which abound sunken 
logs, stumps, and snags, empties into the northwest 
arm of Moosehead Lake, in its upper left-hand corner, 



78 rOURS BF.VOXD MOOSEHEAD LAk'E. 

and to the left of Ferd. Lane's clearing. Paddling up 
this brook for nearly a mile, to the head of navigation, 
one comes to a landing on the left bank, from which 
one reaches, a few yards distant, the direct road from 
line's to Seeboomook Meadows. This road runs north- 
west, and for some distance covers the same ground as 
the Old Canada Road, which leads from Lane's to 
Canada Falls, and beyond to Canada. 

From the landing to the meadows is a Kjug mile and 
a half, the road being good, except after a rain, when 
the walking is soft. Ferd. Lane promi)tly appears at 
the landing with a horse and sled, if previously asked 
to do s(j, and hauls canoe and luggage across the carry, 
charging from a dollar and a half to two dollars per load. 

Seeboomook Meadows consist of a small tract of 
ground lying near the West Hranc h, and the pond which 
covers a part of it, from a (luarter to three eighths of a 
mile in diameter, is connectetl with the river by a shal- 
low and narrow stream flowing northeasterly for a quar- 
ter of a mile from its east side. 

WKST imWCH OK rilK PENOHSCOT. — SEEBOO- 
MOOK PALLS. 

This part of the river is j)retty difficult of navigation, 
and parties find it e:isier and shorter to be h.iuled across 
the Northeast and Northwest Carries, and to paddle 
over the lake between them, than to attempt to accom- 
plish the same distance on the river. A visit, however, 
to Seeboomook Falls is (juite worth while, if one has the 
time. 

Just below the foot of Seeboomook Lsland arc the first 



r 




MT. KATAHDIN, from Katepskone(;an Lake. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 79 

falls, past which, on llic left, one must carry for a quar- 
ter of a mile. Two miles and a half of crood canoeiu'jr 
follow, — good except in one place, the Dam Pitch, 
where one must lift one's craft over. Then come the 
long falls. At high water one must carry at least three 
quarters of a mile, in low water nearly double that dis- 
tance, the path being on the right. Some three miles 
below the rapids is the mouth of Russell Stream, and 
from there to the Northeast Carry, or Morris farm, is 
two miles more. Seeboomook Falls is a wild and dan- 
gerous place, and the dread of log-drivers on the Upper 
Penobscot. 

RUSSELL STREAM 



is rather small, and for four miles, from its mouth uji 
to the pond, rapiil ; but a canoe can be worked up its 
channel slowly. Al>ove the pond the stream is dead, 
and crooked, for some miles. Russell Pond used to be 
good moose and caribou ground. 

ELM STREAM. 

A small island marks the mouth of Elm Stream, just 
above the lower Seeboomook Falls. For twelve miles, 
up to Elm Pond, the brook is substantially dead water, 
but, being choked in many places by logs and trees, is 
practically unnavigable. 

WEST BRANCH OF THE PENOBSCOT, GOING UP 
FROM NORTHWEST CARRY. 

Opposite the mouth of Seeboomook Stream, on See- 
boomook Island, is a good camp-ground. The river 
here is black and deep, a character it maintains for 



8o TOURS BEYOND MOOSEIIEAD LAKE. 

some seven miles above, as far as Swan's flirm, and is 
in places very picturesque. 

A half-mile brings one to the head of the island, 
above which the river widens considerably, and after 
another mile and a half Nelhudus Stream is reached. 
This brook has two mouths, one natural and the other 
artificial, and is navigable for some distance. Good 
fishing is to be had, late in the summer, in pools here 
and there among its windings. 

From the opposite or right bank of tiie river, just 
below Nelhudus, a good tote-road leads into the Old 
Canada R )a 1, — it being about six miles from the river 
to Lane's. 

From Nelhudus five miles of paddling, past pictu- 
resque Camj) Pocahontas and around several sharp 
bends in the river, bring one to Swan's farm, on the left. 
( )\\ the high bank, along w'nich at the west enil of the 
clearing leads the path to S van's *' shanty," is a con- 
venient camping-ground, without, however, a very boun- 
tiful supply of good fire-wood. 

Above S.van's the river for half a mile is shallow and 
the current strong, rendering it necessary, in low water, 
to wade and to drag canoes. At the end of this half- 
mile is the first or lowest pitch of Oulliver Falls, be- 
tween which and the next pitch — a few rods — Gulli- 
ver Stream empties into the river on the right. The 
second pitch is at the foot of a smiU island, going to 
the left of which one so::)n passes u[) over the third 
pitch, — the head of the rapids. In moderately high 
water two men can take a loaded canoe up over these 
rapids without much difficulty ; but in low water resort 
must be had to the dragging process. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 8i 

Two miles and a half of deep " dead" water intervene 
between the head of Gulliver Falls and the foot of Big 
Island, passing up the right side of which, five eighths 
of a mile, to the head, one comes to open land, and to 
more shallow and in some places " strong " water. The 
passage around the left of the island is narrower, and a 
ijuarter of a mile longer. 

On the left, a few rods above the island, is the mouth 
of a "logon," pushing up which for forty rods a pool 
will be found encircled by lily-pads, where small trout 
are abundant. 

From Big Island a mile of paddling brings one to 
King's High Landings where from ledges on the left 
there is also good fishing. From this point it is less 
than a mile to Knights's farm and shanty, at the forks 
of the North and South Branches, where the canoe- 
man's hard work begins in earnest. 

RfiSUMlE. 

Lane's to mouth of Seeboomook Brook 3m. 

Mouth of Seeboomook Brook to Nelhudus Stream . 2m. 

Nelhudus Stream to Swan's Shanty 5'"- 

Swan's Shanty to head of Gulliver Falls ^m. 

Gulliver Falls to head of Big Island 3im. 

Big Island to Knights's, — the Forks 2m. 

It takes from five to six hours to go from Lane's 
across the carry, and up the river as far as Swan's, and 
from four to five hours from Swan's to the forks. In 
low water it may take the better part of a day to accom- 
plish the latter distance. 



82 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 



SOUTH BRANCH OF THE PENOBSCOT. 

Leaving the forks, and ascending the South Branch 
(much narrower than the main river), a mile and a half 
of swift water over a bed of rocks, in places so thickly 
strewn as to render the passage of a canoe almost im- 
possible, bring one to the foot of Canada Falls. More 
or less wading will be found unavoidable over this stretch, 
except in high water, the worst part being immediately 
below the falls. The river here makes a very marked 
bend, having flowed for two miles and a half in almost 
a semicircle northwards, and then sweeping off at a 
sharp angle towards the east. Canada Falls consists of 
a succession of deep, narrow gorges, down and through 
which the water froths and roars. This part of the 
river is well worth seeing ; but to take through it a loaded 
canoe, by alternate dragging and carrying, will require 
the better part of a long day. It takes much less time 
to make the long carry — a mile and a half — over the 
Old Canada Road, which leaves the foot of the falls, 
runs up the steep bank, then southwest by south, and 
at the end of three eighths of a mile turns sharjily to 
the right. A mile and a half over a good road, hard 
and dry except in one place, is a pleasant substitute for 
an all-day's journey along and through the river. Put 
in at a dam at the head of the falls, and after a long 
half-mile through a very rocky stream, and past one 
" pitch " where the " painter," or leading-rope, will 
be needed, another dam marks the place where smooth 
and deep water finally becomes a reality. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. ^Z 

On the left bank just above the foot of the falls, and 
again just above the head of the falls, cold-water brooks 
will be found. 

From the upper and larger dam it is half a mile to 
IJog Brook.' Until well away from the dam, look out 
for large rocks just under water. 

Passing by Bog Brook, which seems to be the slug- 
gish outlet of a small bog about a quarter of a mile from 
the river, one paddles two miles, — the latter of which 
is around an ox-bow, — and bending sharply to the 
west, comes to the mouth of Alder Brook. Up the 
river, about a mile from here, is the mouth of Hale 
P>rook, opposite which is a flat ledge projecting half- 
way across the stream, and below the ledge a deep pool, 
where trout of medium size abound. A good camp- 
ground lies just over this ledge. It affords plenty of 
hard wood and good water, and the hunting-grounds 
of Alder Brook are conveniently near it. A " logon," 
a few rods up the river on the same side, is a favorite 
feeding-ground for ducks. A logging-camp back of 
the " logon " will afford dingy shelter to parties not 
provided with a tent, and cool brook-water is near at 
hand. A good road runs back from this camp to the 
Old Canada Road, which it joins about a mile from 
the river. 

A few rods above Hale Brook the character of the 
river banks changes, from a densely wooded to an 
open grassy elm-land, which character they maintain 
for a mile and a half. The sportsman's course is 
generally west ; and two miles from Hale Brook, the 
water begins to be shallow in places, over which wading 
and dragging may be necessary. A mile and a quar- 



84 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

ter of this sort of navigation gives place to a mile 
of shallow, rock-strewn, dead water separated into two 
stretches by a short interval of quick water, and then 
for two miles more follow a succession of pools alter- 
nating with gravel and sand bars, when the mouth of 
Penobscot Brook is reached. This small stream, 
about five feet wide, flows out of l^enobscot Lake, 
several miles through swami)y ground, is choked up 
with fallen trees, and is entirely unnavigable. Its vol- 
ume of water is about one fourth that of Bald Brook, 
which pro])erly is the Penobscot, and should so be 
called. 

Above this point canoeing is out of the question, 
excepting, i)erhaps, immediately after a very heavy 
rain, when, by dint of energetic poling, a canoe might 
ascend this boulder-strewn stream to apiece of "dead " 
water and alder ground, a mile or more above the junc- 
tion of the two brooks. A tote-road, however, follows 
the stream, on its right bank, beginning three miles 
or more below Penobscot Brook, and becomes (.juite 
good a short distance above it. It crosses several 
ridges, and passes three decayed logging-camps, until, 
bearing off to the south, to the west of Bald Mountain, 
it fm:illy joins the Canada Road in Sandy Bay town- 
shij). 

Penobscot Lake is best reached by taking to the Old 
Canada Road, and carrying canoe and load over it, 
from some point on the river near the road. The 
road, be it said, above the old camp near Hale Brook, 
has not been much used of late years, and is there- 
fore "grown up" in places. 




MILLINOKETT LAKE. 



(PENOBSCOT WATERS. 85 

RfiSUMfi. 

> of North and South Branches to Canada Falls . 1/2 >t». 

; of Canada Falls to Upper Uam 24n. 

Upper Dam to Penobscot Brook loni. 

It takes about five hours to go from the Forks to 
the upper dam, and from six to seven hours more to 
the mouth of Penobscot Brook. 

ALDKR BRUUK, 

twenty years ago a favorite feeding-ground for moose, 
runs through a stretch of country for the most part 
open and flat, and aflbrding the best opportunity in 
the neighborhood for " still-hunting." I>ong grass 
covers its banks, with plenty of alder-bushes and somt 
scnibby willows interspersed. For about two miles a 
canoe can run up the stream with ease, the general 
direction being south, and, beyond that point, west. 
The writer, on his only visit to this brook, in 1878, 
found a new beaver-dam about two miles from its mouth, 
which so raised the water as to render the passage 
very good for nearly a mile and a half further. The 
water alx)ve the dam was so deep, however, that he 
does not hesitate to express an opinion that very little 
difficulty in ascending the stream would be met by the 
canoe-man, even in the absence of such a dam. CJood 
camping-ground will be found on the right, just below 
a short piece of shallow water, over which the canoe 
must be carried. Above these " rips " the stream is 
deep again for a mile, followed by a mile of shallow and 
deej) places alternating. An old " landing " is at the 
foot of the cjuick water, which now appears in earnest, 



86 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

and here the canoe must stop, unless the brook should 
be high. The bed of the stream above this point is 
very rocky, and continues so for a mile and a half to 
an old dam. On the right a road leads up the stream, 
at the landing blindly to be sure, but above the dam 
it opens out and affords good walking up to, and be- 
yond, a ridge which runs north to the pond. The 
brook above the dam appears to be dead for about 
two miles and a half, its course being nearly east. 
It comes from the pond southerly, three quarters of 
a mile, to the point where the road crosses it ; the 
latter goes a quarter of a mile further before it reaches 
the ridge spoken of above. Along the top of this 
ridge is a good path. The water of the pond is not 
cold, and the locality seems to promise litde, either for 
fish or for game. Bald Mountain lies four or five 
miles southwest. 

This excursion, from the mouth of the brook to the 
pond and back, can be made comfortably in one day. 

NORTH BRANCH OF THE PENOBSCOT. 

The ascent of this stream is difficult and slow, at and 
from its very junction with the South Branch. Wide and 
shallow, it flows over bars of gravel and sand, which 
lie a few rods apart and separate stretches of decep- 
tively smooth water. Large rocks strewn thickly over 
the bottom make it difficult to find a channel for even 
a lightly laden canoe. 

P'rom the forks to Big Lane Brook, on the left, is 
about a mile and a half; thence three quarters of a 
mile to Leadbetter Brook on the same side ; thence 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 87 

three quarters of a mile to an old camp (Spencer's) 
on the right, and from there to Leadbetter Falls, about 
three quarters of a mile further, — or nearly four miles 
in all. 

Leadbetter Falls consists of several short pitches, 
over which a canoe can be pulled up or let down by 
the " painter " without much trouble, except, perhaps, 
in high water, when they can be run, coming down, 
on the paddle. The carry is only a few rods long, 
and lies on the right, going up. The tote-road follows 
the river here, and as far up as High Landing, two 
miles above, where one branch leaves it and runs 
north and northeast, until it again nears it within three 
miles of the foot of Abacotnetic Bog. The other 
branch follows the stream up to the mouth of Dole 
Brook. 

The river immediately above the falls is somewhat 
deeper, and navigation a trifle easier. Three and a 
half miles from the falls one comes opposite West 
Green Mountain, pleasing glimpses of which are had 
from time to time, from below. There are now more 
stretches of dead water, and the stream grows percep- 
tibly narrower. Up to this point it has seemed shut 
in, as it were, and its banks have been lined for the 
most part with soft-wood ridges. Now, however, the 
country grows more open, and hard wood predomi- 
nates, while the rocky character of the river-bed 
changes for several miles to that of sand and gravel. 

A few minutes' walk brings one in sight of East Green 
Mountain, a half-mile higher up the stream, which at 
its base winds abruptly from the west, and the canoe- 
man's course tends more northwesterly. Following, 



88 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEIIEAD LAKE. 

for a mile, a ridge which descends from the western 
mountain northerly, one comes to an island half a mile 
long, on the left side of which, going up, will be found 
the better channel. From the head of the island it is 
about a mile to the mouth of Dole Brook, fifty rods 
below which, in a deep pool, good fishing will be found. 

Three miles more bring one to the mouth of Norris 
Brook, from which to the foot of the Alder (Ground is 
about nine miles. Abacotnetic *' Lake " is a narrow 
sheet of water with boggy shores, and is about a mile 
long. Of its sluggish character and ai)i)earance the 
stream partakes for four or five miles below the outlet. 
From the end of the dead-water, however, to the mouth 
of Dole Brook, there is hardly any water at all, and, 
diificult of passage as are the ten miles below Dole 
Brook, the navigation immediately above it is still more 
difficult and almost impossible. Indeed, it is only after 
a hard and continuous rain of a day or two, or during 
a wet season, that the ascent of the North liranch is 
accomplished at all, and that too by hard pushing. 

In the absence of high water, wading, and dragging 
of canoes will be the order of the day, with scarcely 
any intermission, — a process tiresome to the voyager, 
and ruinous to the canoe. 

ICxcept in the i)ool already mentioned, and jjossibly 
in some others nearer (ireen Mountains, and in one a 
mile below them, there is little fishing in this stream. 
Caribou and deer abound just below Dole Brook, and 
caribou are plenty around Abacotnetic Bog. 

The road from the Forks to the bog, after leaving 
High Landing, runs a mile and a (juarter to Spencer's 
camp of 1 8 78-9 ; thence five and a half miles to Trues- 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 89 

dell and Hildreth's camp (1878-9), which is at the 
east end of a shallow pond, about a mile and a half from 
the mouth of Norris Brook. It soon descends a steep 
hill, crosses a cedar swamp, and runs over another long 
hill, a mile from the foot of which is Spencer's camp of 
1877-8, partly burnt. The road goes to the left of the 
camp, northwest, towards the stream, which is about a 
quarter of a mile away. From this camp it is two 
miles to the end of the carry to St. John Pond, and 
two miles more to the head of the bog, the road skirt- 
ing around it at some distance from the water, to avoid 
soft ground. 

Forks to Leadbetter Falls 4^- 

Falls to Dole Hrook 6m. 

Dole Brook to Norris Brook 3m. 

Norris Brook to Alder Ground Qni. 

Alder Ground to Head of Bog 5m. 

Ordinarily it will take two days to go from the Forks 
to Dole Brook. Beyond that point it is impossible to 
give an estimate of time. It might take a day to reach 
the bog, or it might take a week. 

DOLE BROOK, 

or Middle Branch, will be found generally impracticable 
of navigation, and, aside from the falls, of little interest, 
either by way of scenery or promise of game. The 
main fall is about a mile and a half from the mouth of 
the brook. The water here trickles down the rock 
about ten or twelve feet. An eighth of a mile above, 
there is quite a long ledge, which slopes from the left 



90 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

bank to the centre of the stream, and forms its bed in 
times of freshets. It is worn into all sorts of basins 
and fissures and odd shapes, by the action of the 
water. 

At high water, that part of the stream above the falls 
will not [)resent many obstacles to the canoe-man, and 
is chiefly used, at such seasons, either by lumbermen or 
smugglers. A tote-road nms from the mouth of the 
brook, on the north side, to Canada. It is as a whole 
(juite good, lying through groves of soft wood, " burnt- 
slash," and over hard-wood ridges. It runs pretty near 
tile brook as Air as the falls, then half-way over the 
** slash " nears it again, soon leaves it a second time, 
however, and, veering to the north, meets an old road 
( Lee's) from Dole Pond to the upper North Branch. 
] lere it turns at a sharp angle, leads southwest and 
uest, and again comes out to the stream just below 
1 )ole Pond. Plunging again into the woods, and cross- 
ing Robert Brook, one soon comes out at an old clear- 
ing. The old storehouse, the skeleton of whic;h still 
remains standing on the bank of the pond, was built 
years ago, when lumbering was good in this region. 
Sui)plies were brought here from Canada, and grain 
and hay raised on the clearing during the summer, and 
distributed in winter to the neighboring lumbermen. 

DOLE POND, 

about a mile and a half long, and one mile broad in its 
widest part, is shallow and uninteresting, as is also Frost 
Pond, its counterpart, two and a half miles beyond. 
Jjetween the two is an extensive " logon " frequented 




Mr. KA TAHDIX — Loukix\(. iowards the Basin. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 9 



by caribou. No thoroughfare connects this " logon " 
with Dole Pond, the stream in summer disappearing 
ahiiost wholly in one place, in or beneath a bog. 

RfiSUMfi. 

Mouth of Dole Brook to Falls ijl^m. 

Falls to Burnt Land ^m. 

Burnt Land 2m. 

Burnt Land to Uam 4X'""- 

Dam to Storehouse X*"- 

Storehouse to Frost Pond 3X"^- 

There seem to be no fish in these ponds and streams. 

LONG POND. 

To the south of and emptying into Dole Pond by a 
small stream navigable in high water, and about two 
miles in length, lies Long Pond, a charming little sheet 
of water between two and three miles long, and vary- 
ing in breadth from a half-mile to a mile. It is shut 
in by high wooded hills on every side, and seems to be 
quite deep. There is said to be good fishing in its 
waters. 

ST. JOHN POND 

is an attractive sheet of water about three miles long, 
and a mile or more broad. It is reached from the 
North Branch of the Penobscot, by a good carry two 
miles and forty-four rods long, which leaves that stream 
at an old "landing" on a rather low but steep bank. 
The end of the carry is about ten minutes' walk below 
the mouth of a small brook on the same side, and seems 
to follow up the course of the brook until within a 



92 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

sliort distance of St. John Pond. Two brooks at the 
upper end of the i)ond afford good fishing. One of 
them is the outlet of seven small ponds, picturesquely 
ensconced among surrounding mountains. A canoe 
can penetrate almost to the first of these ponds, but 
the others are rather hard of access. 



BAKER LAKE. 

From Abacotnetic Bog, Baker Lake may be reached 
by two routes. The shorter route leads from a point a 
few rods up the brook which flows into the bog at its 
upper end. An old stump, some eight feet high, marks 
the place where the carry begins. Two miles of rather 
soft walking l)ring one to Baker Brook, down which a 
canoe can be propelled without much difficulty to Baker 
]iog, two miles and a half of the way being " dead " 
water. Between this bog-pond and Baker Lake, how- 
ever, navigation is more difficult, and the water in the 
brook for nearly three miles "tumbles down hill," as 
the guides say, in a way that is discouraging. 

The other route is by way of St. John Pond, whose 
outlet, the Woboostook or Baker ^/r^^w, flows eighteen 
miles, in an almost semicircular course, to Baker I^ake. 
For six miles canoeing is said to be pretty good, then 
come about eight miles of carrying and dragging, be- 
tween which and the lake are four miles of " dead " 
water. 

The first of these routes is always j)referable, because 
even in low water there is about one third as much car- 
rying and dragging to be done over it as there is in the 
second, while in the latter some parts of the stream are 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 93 

choked by logs and driftwood ; and when diere is an 
abundance of water and good canoeing in one stream, 
there is also enough for as good canoeing in the other. 

From Baker Lake there is " strong " water, but plenty 
of it, to Seven Islands, some sixty or seventy miles dis- 
tant, from which place parties can be hauled across to 
Long Lake, on the Allagash, and come back to Moose- 
head by way of Chamberlain Lake and Mud Pond, or 
else descend the Allagash into the St. John again, thus 
avoiding the dangers of Black River Rapids. 

Baker Lake has a good reputation for fish and game, 
which certainly ought to be abundant there, owing to 
the difficulty of reaching the place. 

One day is enough in which to go from Abacotnetic 
Bog to Baker Lake, or two days from St. John Pond 
to the lake, and from that point Seven Islands may be 
reached in less than two days. 

CAUCOMGOMOC LAKE 

empties its waters through a stream of the same name, 
about twelve miles long, into Chesuncook Lake. With 
the exception of the upper three miles of the stream 
and two short falls, the water is smooth and navigation 
unrestricted. Until within a few years this region has 
been little visited, but from its accessibility and pictu- 
resqueness it is fast becoming a popular resort. 

Leaving Chesuncook Lake, paddling about a mile, 
past the mouth of the Umbazooksus and over a small 
" rip," brings one to a miniature pond, at the north- 
east corner of which, to the left of the falls, is the end 
of a thirty-rod carry. There are two main pitches to 



94 TOCRS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

these falls, some three and four feet high respectively. 
Putting in cither at the head of the upper pitch, or fur- 
ther up the stream, around a bend at the foot of a very 
steep bank, a mile and a quarter intervene before the 
second fall is reached, — a single pitch of seven feet. 
Brandy Brook, between these two dills, furnishes good 
fishing after the first of September. 

From the upper falls to Black Pond is a mile and a 
half, and across the pond a mile and a quarter more. 
'I'hus far the water is deep and black, and the river 
banks pretty wide apart. Beyontl Black Pond the banks 
converge, the water is clearer, and a current is appre- 
ciable. For three and a half miles, past Little Scott 
Brook, no obstructions exist. At its mouth, and in the 
river above, trout may be taken in a number of places. 
Half a mile above this brook " rips " appear, two or 
three rods long, and here passengers will have to walk, 
and, in low water, carry canoes and baggage. At the 
foot of the bank, around the bend, is another good 
trout-hole. 

Half a mile more brings one to the foot of the 
" horse-race," two and a half miles long, up which a 
canoe with a light load may be poled or dragged, with- 
out great difficulty, unless the water is very high or very 
low. There is only one place to be lifted over. 

A good road runs from opposite Murphy's on Che- 
suncook Lake, up the Caucomgomoc River, touching 
it at the second falls, and again about three miles from 
Caucomgomoc Lake. The last two and a half miles of 
this road are excellent, being on high ground, and dry. 
Fishing may be had in a pool just below the outlet of 
the lake. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 95 

The lake is one of the prettiest spots in Maine. It 
is about seven miles long, and three miles broad at its 
widest part, is of irregular shape, and has several small 
islands at its upper end. A charming camping-ground 
will be found on either side of a small point of land, 
which juts out from the west shore, some five miles 
from the outlet. On the north and south sides of the 
point are long stretches of sand-beach, back of which 
is good level camping-ground and plenty of wood, and 
on the north an icy cold brook. From the south side 
the view is fine, taking in a wide expanse of blue water. 
On the north, the lake narrows considerably and the 
view is much more limited, being broken by pretty 
islands, and overshadowed, as it were, by forest-clad 
mountains on the west, — a decided contrast with the 
other view. 

The shores of the lake are in many places rocky and 
covered with cedars, and, excepting at the upper end, 
offer few good camping-places. 

AVERY BROOK 

empties into the head of Caucomgomoc Lake, to the 
west of a broad piece of meadow-land and "logon." 
It comes from a small pond of the same name about a 
mile and a quarter distant, and varies in width from ten 
to thirty feet. For half a mile it is deep enough for a 
canoe, but for the rest of the way quite shallow, and 
will give abundant opportunity to wade, and perhaps 
to make two or three short carries over its bed. The 
pond is quite small and almost completely overgrown 
with sedge-grass and lilies, but contains an inexhausti- 



96 TOURS BEYOND MOOSE/IE AD LAKE. 

ble supply of small trout, which rise freely in the morn- 
ing and evening. Good fishing may also be had at the 
mouth of Avery Brook. 



LOON LAKE 

is even prettier than its neiglibor, but much more diffi- 
cult of access. It is quite deep, and some three miles 
long by from one to two miles broad. Its outlet into 
Caucomgomoc Lake is a shallow and rocky stream 
about four miles long, hard to navigate even at high 
water. A good road runs along the south bank, begin- 
ning at the head of the dead-water (a half-mile from 
the mouth of the stream). It soon passes an old log- 
ging camp, crosses the brook three quarters of a mile 
above it, and runs direct to the lower end of the lake, 
some two miles further. 



HURD PONDS 

are connected with Loon Lake by narrow and unnavi- 
gable brooks a few rods long. The lower pond is quite 
pretty, but the second one is shallow, and its shores 
dreary and uninviting. 

ROUND POND. 

On the other side of Caucomgomoc Lake, and con- 
nected with it by a deep stream (called the "Sis," 
abbreviated from Caucomgomocsis or Little Caucom- 
gomoc) three miles long, and rocky only at its mouth, 
is Round Pond, a body of water a mile and a half 




CARKATUNK FALLS — Solon. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 97 

long by one mile wide Good camping-ground will be 
found on the northwest side of the pond at the foot of 
a hard-wood ridge, or on the northeast side. Good 
fishing may be had in a spring hole near the mouth of 
a small brook on this latter side, or at the mouth of, 
and in, Poland Brook. 

DAGGETT POND 

is connected with Round Pond by a small stream a 
mile and a half long, through which at high water 
a canoe can easily be paddled. A beaver dam at the 
mouth of this stream for several years kept back 
enough water to answer all the purposes of the canoe- 
man going to Daggett Pond. This sheet of water, about 
a mile and a half in diameter, offers no special attrac- 
tions except, perhaps, in the way of cranberries, which 
grow in profusion on its northwest and southwest 
sides. 

A mile and a half intenene between Daggett Pond 
and Shallow Lake, the connecting stream being too 
small for a canoe, but furnishing good walking in its 
bed for three quarters of a mile, past a miniature fall, 
to an old dam. Above this dam a canoe can be led 
and carried to a second dam, and from there paddled 
among sharp rocks to 

SHALLOW LAKE, 

whose shores on nearly all its sides are swampy and 
covered with grass and hackmatack growth. 

The lake is about two miles long and a mile and a 
quarter broad, and with the exception of a part, about 
7 



98 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

a mile in diameter, towards its eastern end, is only 
from six inches to a foot deep, and covered with lily- 
pads and sedge-grass. The bottom is mud unadulter- 
ated, and the waves and ripples made by the progress 
of a canoe will bring bubbles of gas in great quantities 
to the surface of the water, on all sides, even ahead of 
the canoe. 

The lake lies diagonally north and south, and has 
two small islands at its west central end. A good road 
leads from its eastern extremity to Chamberlain Lake. 

Black ducks are found here in great (juantities, and 
cranberries are plenty. At tlic northwest end of the 
lake, near the outlet, there runs along the shore a nat- 
ural ridge about four feet high, a sort of embankment, 
behind which the land falls two or three feet again. 
There are no trout in Shallow Liike, but some have 
been taken at the mouth of Shallow Lake brook in 
J)aggett Pond. I'he boggy shores of both ponds are 
cut up with caribou tracks. 

POLAND BROOK 

for a quarter of a mile from its mouth is deep, this 
character then giving place for another quarter-mile to a 
succession of " rips " and shallow places, through which 
some wading must be done. A miniature foil of three 
feet marks the reappearance of smooth water, which ex- 
tends up to Poland Pond. Above the falls the stream 
widens considerably, and on either side are hackma- 
tack bogs covered with grass and low bushes. Lily- 
pads cover the water except in the middle of the 
stream. These features predominate for two miles. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 99 

The stream then resumes its old appearance, narnnvs 
a good deal, and exchanges a muddy for a sandy and 
rocky bottom. One mile more brings one to 



POLAND POND, 

a pleasing little sheet of water about three quarters of 
a mile long and half a mile broad. There is some 
swampy ground at its western end, which makes isl- 
ands of two pieces of high land jutting out into the 
pond. A narrow channel which runs through this 
swamp leads over a succession of beaver dams, to 
quite an extensive beaver pond. 

Wadleigh Brook, which empties into the northern 
end of the pond, is clear and cold, and at times affords 
good fishing. 

Parties who wish to visit and explore this region can 
best do so by camping on Round Pond, and taking 
one day for Poland Pond, and one for Shallow Lake 
and Daggett Pond. A light load, consisting of pro- 
visions for two days, an axe, kettle, frying-pan, and 
blankets, can be taken from there with canoe to Alla- 
gash Lake, and a very pleasant and easy excursion 
made. 

RjesUMfi. 

Chesuncook Lake to Caucomgomoc Lake . . 12m. 

Caucomgomoc Lake, length 7m. 

Caucomgomoc Lake to Loon Lake 4m. 

Caucomgomoc Lake to Round Pond .... 3m. 
Caucomgomoc Lake to Avery Pond .... \%vc\.. 

Round Pond to Poland Pond S'-^m- 

Round Pond to Shallow Lake 4/^ni- 



lOO 7VUKS HEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 



It takes about a day to go from Chesuncook I.ake 
to Caucomgomoc Lake. The carry around the *' horse- 
race " can easily be made, canoe and baggage, in three 
hours. 

ALLAGASH LAKE. 

At the head of the dead-water near the mouth of 
Poland IJrook begins the carry which leads to Alla- 
gash I^ike. 'I'he path runs along a ridge of low moun- 
tains, perhaps half or one third of the way up their 
sides, and is thn-e miles long and (juite dry and open. 
I'lom the end of the carry it is about three miles 
around to the mouth of Allagash Stream, a quiet, cold, 
narrow, and deej) brook, with a sandy and rocky 
bottom, and navigable for several miles with compara- 
tive ease. There are no rai)ids, and but few " rips," for 
some distance from its mouth, but the current is (juite 
strong. The stream, not having been ''driven" of 
late years, is, higher uj), somewhat choked with logs 
and drift wood. At and near its mouth there is good 
fishing. 

Tile northeast shore of the lake is low and sandy, 
that on the west is rocky, and often precipitous to a 
height of fifty or seventy-five feet. West of the lake 
several mountains, the Toulbah range, appear quite 
strikingly ; the country on the other sides, however, is 
Hat and uninteresting. 

Several small brooks empty into Allagash I^ake, 
none of which are navigable. Good camping-ground 
may be found on the west side of the lake about a 
mile from the inllowing Allagash, beneath a ^precipitous 
wall of rock. 



?i 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. lOi 

Parties sometimes ascend Allagash Stream to Mud 
Pond, and carrying across, over an old road, to Chem- 
quasabamticook (pronounced Jim-se-bem-se-cook) 
Lake, go down the stream of that name into Long 
Lake. 

Chamberlain Lake may be reached by going down 
the Allagash. The stream is rapid for about two miles 
and a half, to Allagash Pond. ]>elow the pond, half a 
mile or more, there is a fall. Then, for a mile, rapid 
and '*dead " water alternate, as far as another fall, be- 
tween which and the lake there is half a mile of smooth 
water. \\\ places the water is quite rough, and, where 
carrying is necessary, the paths, having of late years 
been little used, are obstructed by a thick undergrowth 
of bushes. However, when the water is moderately 
high, no very gTeat difficulty will be encountered in 
going either down or up the stream. 

DOWN THE ST. JOHN RIVER. 

The first part of this route has already been described 
on pages 62 and 63. 

From the head of Chesuncook Lake, and mouth of 
Caucomgomoc Stream, it is but a fraction of a mile to 
the mouth of the Umbazooksus, — a stream which for 
three or four miles winds sluggishly, but with provok- 
ing pertinacity, through low meadow-lands which yield 
a yearly abundance of hay to the Chesuncook farmers. 
There is a cold spring on the right about a mile from 
the mouth of the stream. Above this stretch of " dead " 
water there is quick and shallow water for a mile and 
a half, or more, through which a canoe may be poled, 



I02 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

or led, without much difficulty, except for perhaps a 
quarter of a mile, where carrying may become neces- 
sary. A good road runs on the right up to Umbazook- 
sus Lake. 

Paddling a mile across the southeast corner of the 
lake, one comes to the beginning of the famous Mud 
Pond Carry, the dread of guides, and abomination of 
sportsmen. This carry is two miles long, and in many 
places has the ai)pearance of the bed of a brook, with 
water and mud enough almost to float a canoe. Ex- 
cept in very dry seasons the traveller here sinks in 
mire up to his ankles, and without a pair of rubber 
boots is indeed " at sea." This hardship once over, 
the rest of the St. John trip is so comi)aratively easy 
and pleasant, that the remembrance of one's toil is 
soon lost, for the time, in keen enjoyment. 

MUD POND, 

whose naine carries with it its chief characteristic, is 
nearly round, and about a mile wide. Lifting over a 
dam at its outlet, wading again becomes necessary for 
about a mile down tiie brook, which for a mile or more 
near its mouth broadens into a sort of " logon," where 
ducks congregate. A run of two miles and a half across 

CHAMBERLAIN LAKE 

brings one to Chamberlain farm, where the most neces- 
sary articles of camp fare are usually to be had. 

The shores of this lake are very unattractive. Some 
years ago a large dam was built at its natural outlet, and 



^Z^r^W-^T-^a^'^^ 




OLD HILL — Bingham 



ST. JOIIX WATERS. 103 

the water forced back and through an artificial " cut " 
or canal between Telos and \V'ebster Lakes. This en- 
al)les the kimberman to take his logs down the East 
liranch of the Penobscot River to a home market, 
instead of having to go into New Brunswick. The 
consecjuent rise of water in the lake flooded its shores 
and killeti the trees on them for several yards back. 
Some of the withered trunks still stand with bare arms, 
in marked contrast to their living neighbors, while 
others have f;illen, and help to make impenetrable any 
camping-ground which may be within. The tourist 
gladly passes on to the dam and lock, some three miles 
and a half from the farm. Two short carries must be 
made past these obstacles, — on the right, — and after 
running through some quick water and a pleasing little 
lakelet, one emerges into 

EAGLE LAKE. 

This is a pretty and irregular sheet of water, with 
attractive shores, and contains two or three good-sized 
islands. Several brooks emi)ty into it, which are par- 
tially navigable, and through some of which access may 
be had to ponds beyond. 

SMITH BROOK, 

the outlet of Haymock Lake, is smooth water for three 
miles or more from its mouth, to the head of an island, 
and pretty broad in places. About four miles up, there 
are some falls and shoal water, past which, on the left, 
canoes must be carried, and above which " dead" water 
agam appears. 



I04 TOrRS BEVO.VD MOOSFJfEAD LAKE. 

Russell, Sopcr, Snare, and Thoroughfiire Brooks are 
nav igable for some distance, and afford good fishing in 
l)laces, one of which is off a sandy point at the head of 
a small pond or *' bulge " in Snare Hrouk. 

From the locks to Eagle Lake Narrows is about ten 
miles, and to Thoroughfare Ikook six miles more. 

CHUK<'iIILL LAKK 

is about six miles long and three or four broad in its 
widest part. Into it empty the 1 win lirooks. An old 
and dititicult carry of about two miles and a half leads 
to Spider Lake on the right of the brook, beginning in 
a ])iecc of burnt land, or second growth. A canoe can 
be put into the brook just below 

SriDI'.R LAKK. 

This is quite a pretty sheet of water, deep and sur- 
rounded mostly by high ground. A short carry leads 
to a j)ond just south of it. A succession of carries and 
l)onds begin at its northeastern comer, and lead event- 
ually into Munsungan Lake, and thence down int(; the 
Aroostook River. 

,\t the foot of Churchill Like are the remains of 

CHASE'S DAM, 

burnt, it is said, by parties from New Brunswick, who 
were angry at the prosj)ect of losing all advantages 
which might accrue to them from logs which would 
otherwise naturally be sent down the river from Eagle 
and Churchill Like waters. It is hardly necessary to 



.sv: 70//X irA77:KS. 105 

say, that it was intended l)y means of this dam to raise 
the water, so that it would be level with that of Cham- 
berlain Lake, when logs could pass south, instead of 
having to go down the Allagash. 

At the dam begins, on the left, Chase's Carry, where 
it is expedient for such persons, at least, as are nov- 
ices in the management of a canoe, to carry both their 
canoe and luggage. They thus avoid the Devil's Elbow, 
one of the worst places in the river, where in the midst 
of rocks and foaming water a canoe must shoot across 
fnjm one side of the stream to the other, or swamp. 
The carry is about three quarters of a mile long. 
Immediately below it the water is quite rough for 
some little distance, antl one must be continually on 
the alert to avoid shipwreck. This over, however, a 
canoe glides smoothly down the river past meadow- 
land and grassy islands into Umsaskis Lake, — some 
eight or nine miles, in all. 

From here, continuing through Lcjng Lake, sixteen 
miles, to the Depot Farm, through which passes the 
road from Seven Islands, one paddles ten miles more 
into Square Lake. No obstacles to rapitl progress in- 
tervene between Square Lake and Allagash Falls, — 
twenty miles, — nor between the latter and Grand Falls, 
on the St. John, about one hundred miles apart. 

Allagash Falls are a mile or more below a point 
where the river widens, and where there are a number 
of islands. A farm-house (formerly M'Clellan's) stands 
on the right bank, opposite the head of this "bulge." 

At the falls there are two carries, on the right, or 
rather one carry, part of which in high water need not 
be used. The river here, however, is full of sharp- 



Io6 TOr/^S BEYOND MOOSE HEAD LAKE. 

pointed rocks, and great care must be taken to avoid 
ihem. 

The falls are ([iiite pretty, and consist of one broken, 
ragged, narrow pitch, some thirty feet or more high. 
The water, as it i)asses over it, is almost as white as 
milk. The carry is short. It is about twelve miles from 
the falls to the moiKh of the Allagash, thirty-two more 
to Fort Kent, twenty more to the mouth of the Mada- 
waska River, and thirty-seven more to Orand P'alls. 

Two or three days will take one to Grand Falls, where 
canoe and luggage will be hauled past the rapiils, for a 
dollar or two. 

The falls are some sixty feet high, one unbroken 
pitch, followed for a short distance by lesser falls and 
swirling hissing rapids. \ i)relty suspension bridge 
spans the chasm below the f:ills, and from it one obtains 
a charming view of the latter. 

From (irand Falls it is about twenty-seven miles to 
Tobi(pie, twenty more to Florenceville, and twenty 
more to \V\)odstock. 

Two days are all that is recpiired to paddle from 
Grand Falls to Woodstock, where one can continue by 
canoe, or, in high water, by steamer, seventy miles to 
Fredericton, thence a hundred miles to St. John, and 
thence by steamer to Portland or Boston. \\y rail one 
can reach St. John, a hundred and fifty miles, or, in the 
other direction, Ibngor, in one day. 

The last week spent on this trip is apt to be monoto- 
nous. The river banks present the same scenes, day 
after day, and at the mouth of the .Mlagash one feels 
that he has left the luoods behind him, and is rapidly 
nearing home. 



j'/-:xo/;sco/' h-ateks. 107 

Fishing will be found in the Allagash in different 
places between Chase's dam and the junction with the 
St. John. 

RfiSUMfi. 

Greenville or Kineo to Moosehorn .... 28-48111. 

Umbazooksus Lake 20m. 

Chamberlain Lock icm. 

'rh(jroughfare lirook, or Chase's Carry . . 16-22n). 

Umsaskis Lake, or Long Lake 9-25ni. 

Allagash Falls 30m. 

ALidawaska 64111. 

Grand Falls 37'i'' 

Woodstock 67ni. 

323«". 

The above table makes no allowance for delay caused 
by rain, low water, or for stops made for recreation. 

E.\ST P>RANCH OF THE PENOBSCOT. 

The route from Moosehead to Chamberlain Lake 
has been previously described, on pages loi and 102. 
Near the upper end of Chamberlain I^ke, at the 
■ heel of the boot," is the natural mouth of a stream 
which now flows back into Telosmis (Litde Telos Lake). 
The water in this stream is " dead," and a canoe passes 
easily into and across Telosmis and Telos Lake, some 
five miles, to the *' cut " which was made some years 
ago to connect the latter body of water with Webster 
Lake. A canoe can run through this canal, which is 
over a mile long, at almost any time in summer, and 
without great difficulty. The water is quite rapid, but 
sufficiently deep for purposes of navigation. 



io8 7'OrA'S BEYOXD MOOSEIIEAD LAKE. 

WEBSTER LAKE 

is al)out two miles long and perhaps half as wide. It 
furnishes good camping-ground and capital fishing. 
The brook, which is its outlet, is a very turbulent 
stream, and on its course of ten miles there are a 
great many " pitches " and falls, around which canoes 
must be carried. They are mostly short stretches, 
with no regular carry-paths, and in many cases all that 
is necessary is to lift over a ledge. The principal carry, 
and the last one on tiic brook, is about three quarters 
of a mile long, and lies on the left bank. 
A short run below it takes one into 

SECOND LAKE, 

where Webster Brook joins the main East Branch. 
Three miles across this lake, and about as far again 
tlirough the river, which is nearly all " dead " water, 
bring one into 

GRAND LAKE. 

There is a farm near the mouth of Trout Brook. 
Five miles across the lake bring one to the dam at its 
foot. At this point appear a range of mountains on 
the southwest, which give one the impression of follow- 
ing the tourist, as it were, in his course down the river 
for six or eight miles, from which circumstance they 
take their name, — the Traveller Mountains. 

Below Grand Lake navigation is very much like that 
of Webster Brook, except that it is less difficult. The 
stretches of " dead " water are longer, and the rapids 




AUSTIN BROOK — BiNdHAM. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 109 

are deeper and less dangerous. Besides several smaller 
ones, there are two principal falls, between the lake 
and the junction of the river with the West Branch. 
The first is about fifteen miles below Grand Lake, and 
is known as (irand Falls. It extends over considera- 
IjIc ground, and in its course there are four " pitches," 
around which canoes must be carried. The other carry 
is about a mile long and on the right bank, about twelve 
miles from the mouth of the stream. It runs around 
tlie (Irindstone Falls. From the junction of the East 
and West Branches in Medway it is twelve miles to 
Mattawamkeag. 

For wildness of scenery this route surpasses even 
that down the West Branch, and is perhaps more diffi- 
cult. It has the charm, moreover, of being seldom 
visited by tourists, and offers many a good trout pool, 
and not infrec^uently an opportunity to secure large 
game. 



EBEEME PONDS AND PLEASANT RIVER. 

Leaving the cars of the Bangor and Piscatacjuis 
Railroad at Milo, one takes stage five miles north to 
I'rownville, whence leads a good stage-road, fourteen 
miles, through some interesting slate quarries, to Ka- 
tahdin Iron-Works. K mile beyond Brownville, a 
branch road leads to Schoodic Lake, and also into a 
good logging road, which in turn runs past Lower 
Ebeeme (pronounced Eb-ee-my) Ponds, to Jo Mary 
Lakes. A pair of horses can haul canoes and luggage 



no VVCKS nEVOXD MOOSEIIEAD LAKE. 

through from Brownvillc to AVcst Jo Mary Lake in one 
day. 

The upjjer and lower ICheeme ponds lie about four 
miles apart, measured on the east branch of Pleasant 
River, which flows through them before its junction 
with the other branches. A canoe can be paddled and 
poled uj) the connecting stream for two miles without 
much difficulty, but above that i)oint will have to be 
carried half a mile, and poled the rest of the way to the 
up|)er ])ond. The ponds and surrounding country are 
quite picturescjue, several wooded mountain peaks 
being near at hand on either side. 

The lower group of i)onds consists of West Ebeeme, 
connected by a narrow thoroughfare with Horseshoe 
Pond, into which empties, by a small brook on tin 
north. Pearl Pond, and on the east, K:Lst Hbeeme I'ond. 
the latter being three (piarters of a mile from Schoodi< 
I^ke, and connected with it by a good path. There 
are numerous coves and inlets around the shores of 
these ponds, whi( h, besides being pretty, make good 
shooting-ground. .\ gootl farm, cultivated by Elisha 
Norton, lies on the Jo Mary road near Schoodic I^kc. 

Into the U|)i)er 101)eeme empties, on the north, 
Wangen Brook, which for two miles from its mouth is 
navigable by canoes. From the head of the dead 
water a good road leads into the Jo Mary road, and it 
is only four miles to Jo Mary Lake. 

Horace Falls, two miles above Ui)per Ebeeme, is a 
pretty little cascade fifteen feet or more high, with a 
small island perched in the middle of it. 

Persons who visit Ebeeme Ponds leave the stage at the 
house of William Tufts, seven miles from lirownville. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. HI 

KATAIIDIN IRON-WORKS. 

This township is northwest of Brownville, and the 
focus of the mining operations carried on in it is at a 
small pond east of Ore Mountain. Fifty men are 
employed at the furnace, whose annual capacity is 
about thirty-five hundred tons. 

A small hotel, which is soon to be enlarged so as to 
accommodate seventy-five people, stands in the neigh- 
borhood of the furnace, and from it good fishing- 
grounds and picturescjue resorts are of easy access. It 
is four miles to the top of Horseback Mountain, and 
the same distance to the top of Chairback, from 
each of which fine views may be had. The principal 
fishing-grounds are Little Houston Pond, two miles ; 
Big Houston, three and a cjuarter miles ; Houston 
Dead-Water, two miles; Kast and West Chairback 
Ponds, six and seven miles resi)ectively ; Long Pond 
and Spruce Mountain Pond, each eight miles. Mum- 
mer-Nunncr-Lungen Pond is in sight of the house, and 
the Mineral Springs are a mile from it. 

From Katahdin Iron- Works the road leads north, 
past B Pond, which is ten miles away. There is said 
to be good trout-fishing here, and at one time caribou 
frequented the shores of the pond in large droves. 

A branch road leads west from the Iron-Works for 
six miles, along the west branch of Pleasant River, 
nearly to the foot of the '' Gulf," where for three miles 
or more the river passes through a wild and narrow 
gorge, highly picturesque, and of wonderful formation. 
In low water, one can follow up the stream, to a certain 
extent, along the water's edge, and get a good idea of 



112 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEIIEAD LAKE. 

this natural phenomenon. A good road also leads to 
Houston Ponds. 

On the east branch of Pleasant River, above Upper 
Ebeeme Pond, is a similar gorge called the " Gauntlet," 
very wild, but not quite equal to the " Gulf." A tote- 
road runs from Lower Ebeeme Pond, from the mouth 
of Babel Brook to the Gaundet, which is also four 
miles from Horace Falls. 

Crawford and Cedar Ponds lie near an old obscure 
path called " Caribou Road," which branches off from 
the Jo Mary Road, a few miles south of Jo Mary Lake. 
Both ponds are hard of access, but the former furnishes 
good trout-fishing. A fine view of the surrounding 
mountains and lakes can be had from Cedar Moun- 
tain.* 



SKIJIX LAKK, 



an oddly shaped body of water, and a very pretty one, 
lies near the line of the Bangor and Piscata([uis Rail- 
road, and can be reached conveniently by either of 
three routes. The first is by way of South Sebec, the 
second lies through Foxcroft, and the third begins at 
Abbot, — all stations on the Bangor and Piscataquis 
Railroad. 

From South Sebec to Sebec Corner is a mile, and 
thence it is four miles to Sebec Village, at the extreme 
east end of the lower lake, or pond. Stages connect 
with the regular trains, and the fare to the village is 
twenty-five cents. 

* For nruicles,and infmination about this region, address Luther 
M. Gcrrish, Browiiville, Me. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 113 

At Foxcroft one can go by stage, or private convey- 
ance, at 7 A. M., due north four miles and a half 
to Blethen Landing, at the west end of the lower 
pond. There is a small mill here, as well as several 
farm-houses where one can get a meal if needed, 
and await the arrival of the steamer, which is due at 
8 : 15 A. M. The fare from Foxcroft to the head of the 
lake is fifty cents, or about a dollar if by private convey- 
ance. The road from Abbot runs nine miles to the 
Lake House, at the mouth of Wilson Stream. 

Blueberries grow in profusion near the lake, and 
during the time when they are ripe a small steamer 
makes the round trip up and down the lake every day, 
and runs pretty regularly during the rest of the summer 
season, — say from July 25th to September ist, — leav- 
ing Sibec Village in the morning, and returning from 
Wilson Stream in the afternoon. Campers-out will 
find guides, canoes, and the ordinary articles of an out- 
fit at Sebec Village, and all at reasonable prices. Good 
guides charge about a dollar and a half a day for their 
services, including canoe. Sail-boats, canoes, and tents 
are to let at the village, where Mr. Frank M. Ford will 
attend to the wants of sportsmen. 

In the spring, when the ice first breaks up, the fish- 
ing at Sebec Lake is very good. Land-locked salmon 
abound in its waters, and furnish capital sport to the 
angler. They average about two and a half pounds in 
weight, and are very "gamy," sometimes leaping out 
of water two feet or more. People may be dis- 
appointed who visit the lake in summer or autumn, 
expecting to catch them right and left ; but after having 
learned their habits, one can reasonably expect to be 
6 



114 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEIIEAD LAKE. 

well repaid for a visit of a fortnight. In July and 
August pickerel and white-perch are the fish caught 
most abundantly in the lake. 

The lake is twelve miles long altogether, its lower 
arm six miles long and averaging a hundred and fifty 
rods wide, and its upper or larger part about four miles 
from east to west. It is surrounded by high ridges, 
among which Pine, Birch, Slate, and Granite Mountains 
rise here and there into prominence, and give an air of 
wildness to its lovely bays and dark blue waters. 

Besides the lake proper there are a number of ponds 
and streams near by, which contain trout in abundance. 
A. G. Crockett's hotel, the Lake House, is situated 
near the mouth of Wilson Stream, and from it a good 
wagon-road leads three miles through a small settle- 
ment, to within three quarters of a mile of Grindstone 
Pond, one of the favorite fishing-grounds. Wilson 
Stream is navigable for about a mile from its mouth. 
Parties who wish to go over into Buck's Cove can save 
paddling some three miles by carrying a few rods 
over Uncle Jim's Carry, just east of Wilson Stream. 
Some persons think of building a house for sportsmen, 
this season, near the mouth of Ship Pond Stream. If 
the plan is carried out, it will doubtless result success- 
fully, as Buck's Cove is one of the best localities on 
the lake for land-locked salmon, and a number of 
good trout-ponds can easily be made accessible from 
that point. The Lake House has accommodations for 
twenty-five guests, at reasonable rates, and its proprie- 
tor can furnish parties with canoes or boats and food 
for camping. Ship Pond Stream is impassable for 
canoes, and at present there is no road along either of 



'Vi£ 



^«*^. 






tistv^aftaiE^^t:-^';'^^ 




^mmmm' 


h,:^mrr^'^ :)cim^^^ 


y-y 


r^,„„. 





DUGWAY — Kennebec River. 



PENOBSCOT WATERS. 115 

its banks. Parties can most comfortably go to Ship 
Pond by way of Wilson Stream and Grindstone Pond, 
some six or seven miles, the road thither being good 
enough for teams. Ship Pond surpasses Sebec Lake 
in the beauty of its situation and scenery. 
, The largest Buttermilk Pond is reached by a road 
perhaps a mile and a half long, which leaves Buck's 
Cove east of Ship Pond Stream. A road also leads 
from Ship Pond, a mile and a quarter, to Big Benson 
Pond, and thence down to the north shore of Butter- 
milk Pond. The stream which is the outlet of Benson 
ponds is by some persons said to flow into Ship Pond, 
and by others into Ship Pond Stream. Good fishing 
is to be had at almost all seasons, both in Ship Pond 
and in many of the smaller ponds near it, and both 
deer and caribou are plenty in the neighborhood. 



MOUNT KATAIIDIN FROM THE EAST. 

If one is fonder of " tramping " through the woods, 
than of gliding over lakes and down streams in a canoe, 
there is a route, other than that already described, by 
which the ascent of Mount Katahdin can be made. 

One goes by the European and North American 
Railway from Bangor to Mattawamkeag, where the 
cars connect with good stage-coaches for Sherman 
Village, some twenty-four miles away to the north. 
The stage-fare is two dollars, and the drive is a very 
pleasant one, and not very tiresome. At Sherman Vil- 
lage one can put up at the tavern, or, if early enough, 



Il6 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

push on by private conveyance, over a good road, six 
miles to Stacyville. At this place one can put up at 
the house of Mr. Mitchell. 

It is six miles, over a rough wagon-road, from here 
to the East Branch of the Penobscot, where there is a 
house at which canoes and guides can be obtained. 
At Stacyville it may be well to hire a horse to carry 
one's load in to Katahdin Lake. 

The road — an old tote-road from here — crosses 
the East Branch a mile below the mouth of Wassata- 
quoik Stream, crosses the latter not far from its mouth, 
and runs up its north, or left, bank for seven or eight 
miles. The scenery along this stream is quite wild 
and striking. Recrossing it, the road runs westerly, 
five or six miles, to Katahdin Lake, from which a mag- 
nificent view is had of the mountain in all its majesty. 
The best place to camp is at the head of the lake, — 
a mile from the outlet, — at Reed's old lumber-camp 
on Sandy Stream. 

From here to the Basin, or " crater," is about six 
miles. The path runs up Sandy Stream past several 
dams, crosses it at a long dam, and becomes quite 
good, until one is near the Basin, when the climbing 
grows difficult. 

The wildest part of Katahdin scenery is had from 
this neighborhood, and a better idea of its grandeur 
and stupendous magnitude is obtained here, than from 
any other point. Almost surrounded by perpendicu- 
lar walls of rock, the tourist never ceases to wonder at 
what is before him. 

Good fishing is found in Katahdin Lake and Sandy 
Stream, and trout have been taken from the Basin 
pond. 



KENNEBEC WATERS. n? 



FORKS OF THE KENNEBEC 
AND VICINITY. 



FIRST ROUTE. 
NORTH ANSON. 

Another way of reaching Moosehead Lake and 
the head-waters of the Kennebec is by way of Skow- 
hegan, or North Anson, and thence up the Kennel )ec 
valley. 

The tourist leaves Boston at 7 : 30 a. m. by the East- 
ern, or by the Boston and Maine Railroad, and, con- 
necting at Portland with the Maine Central Railroad, 
continues by way of Lewiston and Auburn to West 
Waterville. At this place those who wish can connect 
with the Somerset Railroad, and go to North Anson, 
or one can without change of cars continue to Skow- 
hegan. 

By the former route one crosses the Kennebec at 
N.orridgewock, an interesting old town on its banks, 
which was settled early in the eighteenth century. A 
short distance above it the cars pass, on the left, 
a granite obelisk erected to Father Rasles and the 
Norridgewock Indians, who were slaughtered there 
in 1724. The pious father had come from Canada, 
a missionary to this wild tribe, and had succeeded in 



Il8 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

gaining a great ascendency over them. At his insti- 
gation they committed depredations on the settlers 
near by, at the time when the French and English 
were not on very good terms. Finally, Captains Har- 
mon and Moulton were sent with two companies of 
soldiers to punish them. Coming on to the high 
ground east of their village, they divided the party, 
surrounded the unsuspecting Indians, and, after a brief 
resistance, killed most of them, and burned their chapel 
and village. 

The railroad runs along and near the left bank of 
the river, crosses to the right bank at Madison, where 
there is quite a waterfall, and continues on the same 
side to North Anson. It takes about an hour and a 
quarter to go from West Waterville to North Anson, 
and the flire is one dollar. 

North Anson, at the junction of the Kennebec and 
Carabassett Rivers, is a thriving little village, and at 
present the northern terminus of the Somerset Rail- 
road. It lies on lx)th sides of the Carabassett, a 
stream which runs noisily through it, over rapids of 
considerable length and interest. From the village 
a fine view is had of Mount Abraham and Mount 
Bigelow, to the west. The cars arrive here about half 
past five, and the tourist can have supper, and push 
on, the same evening, seven miles, to Solon, or he can 
stop here over night and leave for Solon the next 
morning at half past seven. It is forty miles from here 
to the Forks, the junction of Dead River with the 
Kennebec, and teams connect at Solon, in the morn- 
ing, with the regular stage from Skowhegan, or vice 
versa from Solon, with the morning train from North 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 1 19 

Anson to West Waterville. The fare to Solon is fifty 
cents. Parties can procure, at reasonable rates, a team 
to carry them through to the Forks, the same night. 

From North Anson a good road runs twenty-seven 
miles to 



DEAD RIVER. 

Here, at Parsons's hotel, in Dead River Village, one 
can get canoes and staple provisions, and go up the 
river eleven miles, or by land nine miles, to Flagstaff 
Village, which is between the pond of the same name 
and Dead River. Seven or eight miles up the river 
from Flagstaff is Eustis, a small village with a mill, 
above which on the north branch of Dead River one 
can paddle twelve miles to Chain Ponds. Only one 
carry, and that only twenty rods long, has to be made, 
about four miles above Eustis, around Ledge Falls. 

From Chain Ponds one crosses the Canada line, 
and soon descends into Lake Megantic. This is the 
route taken by Arnold in his famous march to Canada 
in October and November of 1775, he having come 
up the Kennebec until opposite Carrying Place Ponds, 
over which he crossed to Dead River, camped some 
time at Flagstaff, and then proceeded up the north 
branch through Chain Ponds into Canada. 

Below Dead River Village there are six miles of 
"dead" water to Long Falls, one mile to the west 
of which is Long Pond, a good fishing-ground. In 
fact, the whole of this Dead River region, being out 
of the usual range of sportsmen, affords very good 
trout-fishing. 



I20 TOURS BEYOND MOOSE HEAD LAKE. 

Around Long Falls there is a carry of three quarters 
of a mile ; then come six miles of " dead " water, at 
the foot of which are Grand Falls and a dam. Below 
the dam there are wild rapids for seventeen or eighteen 
miles, — all the way to the Forks. 



SECOND ROUTE. 
SKOWIIKGAN. 

The route through West Waterville and Waterville 
to Skowhcgan is perhaps more convenient than the 
first-named, as it involves no change of cars. Skow- 
hegan is the head-cjuarters of the regular and only 
Kennebec stage-line, and one is more likely to get a 
good seat in the stage there, than if one should con- 
nect with it at Solon. 

The night train from Boston fails, by two hours, to 
connect with the stage, unless there should be at least 
six persons aboard who are going up the river, and 
who shall have previously notified the stage to await 
their arrival. By this plan, however, one who wishes 
to buy an outfit at Skowhegan has no time to do so, 
and for such a person the morning train from Boston 
is the better, provided one can afford to lose the day 
spent on the cars. 

Skowhegan is quite an attractive place, and the falls 
in the Kennebec there are well worth seeing. The 
Turner House, a spacious hotel, is well kept and com- 
fortable, and within pistol-shot of the depot. 

The stage leaves the hotel, for the Forks, forty-six 




MOXIE FALLS. 



KENNEBEC WATERS. I2i 

miles away, at half past six o'clock every morning. 
I'he road up to Solon — fifteen miles — runs through 
broad and undulating country, and discloses now and 
then pretty glimpses of distant mountains and hills. 
One of the prettiest views is from Robbins Hill, ten 
miles from Skowhegan. Moxie Mountain stands out 
prominently, to the north. 

From Solon the road follows the course of the river 
up its left bank to ]5ingham, eight miles beyond, where 
stage-passengers dine. This is the terminus of the 
telegraph-line. 

Above Bingham the hills which flank the river ap- 
proach it more nearly, and the road winds around its 
pretty curves, now through stretches of woodland, and 
again through " dugways," on the very edge of the 
bank. It is comparatively level all of the way to the 
Forks, and in good weather the entire distance through 
Solon, Bingham, Moscow, Carratunk, and the Forks 
Plantation, is made in about ten hours, stops included. 

Between Skowhegan and the Forks a stage runs each 
way every day. From the Forks to Hilton's, in Sandy 
Bay township, a stage runs every Tuesday, Thursday, 
and Saturday, arriving at Moose River Village at three 
o'clock p. M., and at Hilton's, fourteen miles beyond, 
the same evening. The stage returns on the alternate 
days of the week. Should the amount of travel render 
it expedient, the proprietors are ready to run a stage 
every day over this route, both ways. Passengers to 
Canada connect at Hilton's with the Canada stage 
down the Riviere du Loup to St. Joseph, thence they 
go by rail to Quebec. 

From Solon a stage runs every morning, and con- 



122 TOURS BEYOND MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

nects with the cars at North Anson, at 7:45 a. m. 
The stage from the Forks reaches Skowhegan in the 
evening, in time, if required, to catch the night train 
for Boston. Excursion tickets from Boston to the 
Forks and back, by this route, cost fourteen dollars. 

THE FORKS OF THE KENNEBEC 

has long been a favorite resort for fishermen. A well- 
kept and commodious hotel is prettily and conveniently 
located in the centre of a large tract of fine trout-coun- 
try, and the smaller game of the woods abounds in its 
vicinity. One of the best fishing-grounds near at hand is 

MOXIE POND, 

which is between ten and twelve miles long, and from a 
mile to a mile and a half broad. Two roads lead to it 
from the Forks, one on either side of Moxie Stream. 
That on the south side is five miles long, and the more 
direct ; the other is two miles longer, and passes near 
Moxie Falls, a cascade ninety-five feet high, which 
should by all means be visited. Both roads come 
together at the dam which is at the outlet of the pond. 
Moxie Stream is " dead " from its mouth almost up to 
the falls, sixty rods above which is another fall of fifteen 
feet, called Rankin's Falls. From the latter point to 
the lower dam it is a hundred rods. Two miles inter- 
vene between the lower and upper dams, three fourths 
of which is " dead " water. At the lower dam there is 
a farm and a very neat cabin, kept by Tom Morris ; at 
the upper dam Frank Heald has a camp. 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 123 

Going up the pond one comes, at the end of a mile 
and a quarter, to Caribou Narrows, a charming spot 
for camping. Tall pines stand out above their forest 
companions, and with the mountains and rocks look 
wild and weird. Black Narrows are two and a half 
miles further up the pond, and Mosquito Narrows 
about two miles beyond them. A canoe can run up 
Mosquito Stream to Mosquito Pond. 

Bald Rock is a mile above Mosquito Narrows, just 
opposite Sandy Stream, which is navigable for about a 
mile from its mouth. Baker Brook empties into the 
l)ond at its head, and is unnavigable. The Devil's 
Table, nine miles up the pond, is a large flat rock in 
the middle of the water. For two or three miles the 
upper part of the pond is narrow, and boulders and 
sharp rocks lie concealed just below the surface of the 
water. 

Good fishing is to be had in Mosquito, Sandy, and 
Alder Brooks. Cranberries and blueberries grow in 
profusion on the shores of the pond, and deer and 
caribou are frequently seen near it. 

Nine miles below the Forks a good road leads from 
the Kennebec, three miles, to 



PLEASANT POND, 

where there is quite a setdement. The water of this 
pond is deep and clear, so clear that one can fish suc- 
cessfully until quite late at night. The trout in it are of 
a peculiar kind, very silvery, round, plump, and deli- 
cious eating. The road continues from the north end 
of the pond four miles to Mosquito Pond. 



124 TOURS BEYOND MOOSE HEAD LAKE. 

Carrying- Place Ponds, and Otter and Peirce Ponds 
are reached from Carratunk, and are said to afford 
good fishing, the trout in them running as large as 
four and five pounds. 

Fish Pond, six miles from the Forks, and two miles 
from the lower dam on Moxie Stream, also affords 
good fishing. 

Black Pond, a mile from the Kennebec, has some 
togue in it, but few brook-trout. A convenient way 
of reaching Indian Pond from the Forks, by canoe, is 
through Black Pond, then two miles, partly by carry- 
ing, to Knight's Pond, thence one mile over a carry to 
Little Indian Pond, and through its boggy outlet, with- 
out serious difficulty, almost down to the mouth of 
Indian Stream, where some more carrying will have to 
be done. Elbow Bog empties into the head of Knight's 
Pond. 

A group of ponds which furnish good fishing, and 
which lie pretty near together, are Wilson's Hill or 
Tomhegan Pond, Long Pond, above it, Horseshoe and 
Ellis Ponds, and the Ten-thousand-Acre Ponds. The 
first named is reached by going up the Canada Road 
three miles from the Forks, then turning to the right 
up the lower Cold Stream road through the Coburn 
field, and thence walking seven miles. A good way is 
to camp on the old farm on the border of Wilson's 
Hill Pond, and to make excursions thence, on different 
days, to the other ponds named, which are within a 
radius of two miles or less. 



KEXXEBEC WATERS. 125 

From the Forks to Indian Pond is fifteen miles, 
thence ten miles to Moosehead Lake. The better 
road is on the left bank of the Kennebec. 



PARLIX POXD. 

Fifteen miles north of the Forks, on the Canada 
Road, is a group of buildings, — custom-house, post- 
office, and hotel, — which are a mile from the head of 
Parlin Pond, and which for many years have been a 
stopping-place for sportsmen. The fishing in the pond 
is good, and canoes and guides can be had at reason- 
able rates. 

Five miles beyond, on the Jackman-Parlin line, is a 
hotel kept by A. F. Adams, the proprietor of the stage- 
line which runs from the Forks to Hilton's. This house 
is said to be very well kept, and its proprietor is atten- 
tive and obliging. It is only three miles fi-om the foot 
of Parlin Pond, to which a good road runs from it. 
This road crosses at the dam just below the pond, and 
continues down the stream, and up Lang Stream to 
Lang Pond, where trout are abundant. Good fishing is 
also to be had at Parlin Pond dam. A good path runs 
directly from Adams's to Long Pond, — four miles. 

MOOSE RIVER VILLAGE 

is fifteen miles from the head of ParHn Pond, on the 
same Canada Road. Two small hotels flourish here, 
together with all the appurtenances of a well-regulated 
New England village. Provisions and outfit can be 
obtained here for a trip into the woods, but, as has 



126 TOURS BEYOND JIOOSEIIEAD LAKE. 

been remarked elsewhere, one must not be disap- 
pointed if one does not find on the verge of the forest 
everything that is needed. 

Leaving the village, and paddling up Moose River, 
one soon comes into 

WOOD POND, 

along whose eastern shore one goes four miles to the 
head of the pond. One McKinney has a farm and 
house here, and he can provide parties with boats, 
and^ if need be, with a guide, too. 

On the west of Wood Pond are Litde Wood and 
Big Little Wood Ponds. The latter is half a mile 
from the former, and a mile wide and nearly three 
miles long. A good road leads from Moose River 
Village to the latter, and, touching it midway of its 
length, runs up to its head. Both ponds contain trout 
in abundance. 

A half or three quarters of a mile of river separate 
Wood Pond from 

ATTEAN POND, 

which is rather larger than the former, and much pret- 
tier. It contains many islands, and has good shores 
covered with a generous amount of hard wood. From 
its western extremity a very good road, a mile long, 
runs across to Holeb Pond, and, by carrying across 
this one mile, one saves about twenty-seven miles of 
travel around the " bow." 

Three miles south from the outlet of the pond 



KENNEBEC WATERS. 127 

MOOSE RIVER 

again resumes its course, and is " dead " for half a 
mile up to Attean Rips, just below which is a pretty 
litde island. The carry around the " rips " is on the 
left, and not more than twenty rods long. There are 
two principal " pitches," either of which can at times 
be run on the setting-pole, the upper one being per- 
haps the more difficult. 

The river is substantially smooth for eleven miles, 
between Attean Rips and Holeb Falls, except at Spen- 
cer Rips, three miles below the latter, and in ordinary 
seasons its navigation will give the canoe-man little 
trouble. Spencer Rips can be run on the setting-pole. 
At Three Brooks, opposite Bradstreet's farm, and two 
miles below Holeb Falls, one will get good fishing. 
In Town Five, near the Attean line there are two farms, 
one on each side of the river, but no houses. 

Holeb Falls is a very picturesque spot, the water 
falling some twenty-five feet over large masses of rock. 
The carry lies on the left bank, is steep and half a 
mile long. A good road leaves Parlin Pond, runs west, 
touching at Holeb Falls, and continues up the stream 
to the north branch. 

Above Holeb Falls, on the left, is Smith's farm, now 
kept by Jim Hall, — the last habitation on the river, 
as one goes up. The stream is substantially '' dead " 
from this point even up to, and above, the forks of 
the river. It is two miles above Holeb Falls to Bar- 
rett Brook, and two and a half more to Holeb Stream. 
A tolerably easy passage can be had for a canoe up 
Holeb Stream to the pond. 



12 8 TO URS BE YOND MO OS E HE A D LAKE. 

Above Holeb Stream, the first brook on the right is 
Big Gulf Stream, and the second, — a fraction of a 
mile beyond, and on the same side, — Little Gulf 
Stream. Both are so named because of the gorges 
through which they flow. The mouth of Little Gulf 
Stream is near the town line, three quarters of a mile 
west of which are Lowell Falls. A short carry lies 
on the right bank. A short distance above the falI^>, 
on the left, is a small pond, half a mile from the river, 
which used to be a famous moose-ground. 

So tortuous is the stream between Holeb Falls and 
the town line near Lowell Falls, that the distance be- 
tween the two, by canoe, is about eighteen miles, while 
in a straight line it is less than half that number. 



CAME AND FISH. 1 29 



GAME AND FISH OF NORTHERN 
MAINE. 



Northern Maine, like all other hunting-ground within 
easy reach of civilization, has been pretty thoroughly 
hunted and trapped, not by sportsmen, but by men 
who make it a business to do so. The moose, which 
twenty years ago roamed through its forests, and fre- 
quented the banks of its lakes and streams in large 
numbers, is almost extinct, and to-day it is a rare 
occurrence to meet one anywhere within its borders. 
This state of things is due to the lamentable short- 
sightedness of hunters, who in seasons of deep snow 
have, for the sake of its hide, slaughtered this noble 
animal by scores, and left its carcass to spoil. 

An occasional moose, or other wild animal, killed by 
sportsmen for its meat, would scarcely be missed, and 
the act of killing, whether in or out of " close-time," is 
on this ground justified by the community. But the 
wanton destruction of game, by any one, for the sake 
of the excitement, or " sport," as it is called, will never 
be indulged in, nor approved, by the true sportsman. 

The last remarks, mutatis mutandis, apply equally 
well to fish. The old notion has been fully disproved, 
9 



130 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

that a trout once caught, would not, if put back into the 
water, again take a hook. Fishermen can, therefore, 
by undergoing a Httle trouble, have all the " sport " 
they want, and after reserving enough of their " catch " 
for use, return the uninjured fish to their own 
element. 

The fish-laws of Maine have been altered and 
amended from year to year, to suit the fancy of each 
successive Legislature. None seem as yet to have hit 
the mark of effective protection, for it is notorious that 
more fish are caught in the winter and spring, when 
the ice first forms, and when it first breaks up, than at 
any other time of the year, if we except the time im- 
mediately after spawning. 

As the moose disappears from Maine, deer seem to 
increase, and are working their way east. Caribou 
abound about the head-waters of the Penobscot, and 
apparently increase more rapidly than they are killed 
off Large game is occasionally seen on the shores 
of Moosehead Lake. Of the fur-bearing animals, such 
as otter, beaver, sable, black cat, and loup-cerviers, the 
supply has fallen off so much, that trappers now say it 
does not pay to go after them. 

Trout are abundant away from the beaten thorough- 
fares of sportsmen. \\\ the immediate vicinity of 
Moosehead Lake fishing is fair at all times, except in 
midsummer. A hatching-house is to be built this year, 
near Mount Kineo, the good effect of which will in a 
few years be quite noticeable. 

In the lake are white-fish, " lakers," and brook-trout. 
The first-named is very good eating, lives in deep 
water, and averages a pound or more in weight. The 



GAME AND FISH. 131 

" laker," or lake-trout, weighs as high as twenty-five 
pounds, lives in deep water, — to the great annoyance 
of the white-fish, — and, in the absence of brook-trout, 
is deemed good eating. 

The writer has not attempted to give, in these pages, 
exact directions as to the whereabouts of all the good 
fishing-pools in different ponds and streams, and for 
three reasons. First, and principally, he does not 
know where they are ; secondly, they change from 
year to year, nay, even from day to day ; and, thirdly, 
it would take away much pleasure from the camper- 
out, if he were not allowed occasionally to hunt after 
his game. One soon learns, without being told, that 
at the foot of rapids, below dams, at the mouths of 
cold streams, and in pools along their course, are the 
most likely places for fish. As to game, one should 
ever be ready to meet it. It comes when least ex- 
pected, and may be off again before one can disen- 
gage his gun from a lot of rods and camp equipage. 
Keep it by your side, or in your hands, always, while 
in the woods. 

Ducks are not very abundant in the interior of 
Maine, except in a few localities, where there are good 
feeding-grounds. Sheldrakes — a fishy fowl — are most 
common, and are found everywhere. Black ducks are 
numerous on the feeding-grounds, but are exceedingly 
shy. Teal and wood-duck are found here and there. 
Partridges are abundant everywhere, and are very 
easily approached. They are most often found along 
old roads, or on the banks of streams, probably be- 
cause hunters do not go into the thick woods after 
them. 



132 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

DIGEST OF THE GAME AND INLAND FISH 
LAWS OF MAINE. 

MOOSE. 

It is unlawful to take, kill, or destroy any moose, at any 
time, until October ist, 1880, or thereafter, between Janu- 
ary 1st and October ist, in each year, under a penalty of 
one hundred dollars for each moose so taken, &c. Any 
person who aids or assists in so doing is deemed a prin- 
cipal. — Acts of 1878, ch. 50, §§ I, 2. 

DEER AND CARIBOU 

may not lawfully be killed, taken, or destroyed between 
January ist and October ist, under a penalty of forty dol- 
lars for each one so killed, &c. — Ibid. § 4. 

MOOSE, DEER, AND CARIBOU 

may not lawfully be hunted with dogs, under like penal- 
ties as for killing the same. "Any plrson may law- 
fully KILL ANY DOG FOUND HUNTING MOOSE, DEER, OR 
CARIHOU." — Ibid. §4. 

The possession of the hide or meat of these animals, at 
a time when their killing is unlawful, is presumptive, but 
not conclusive, evidence of having killed them. — Ibid. 

§§2,5. 

No person shall carry or transport any part of any such 
animals during the period in which it is unlawful to kill 
the same, under a penalty of forty dollars. — Ibid. §6. 

FUR-BEARING ANIMALS. 

The "close-time" for mink, beaver, sable, otter, and 
fishers, is from May ist to October 15th. — Ibid. §11. 



GAME AND FISH LAWS. 133 

For muskrats, from June ist to October 15th. — Acts of 
1873, ch. 30, § 15. 

The penalty for unlawfully taking any of the foregoing 
is ten dollars for each animal. — Ibid. 



BIRDS. 

The "close-time" for wood-duck, dusky (black) duck, 
or other sea-duck, is from May ist to September ist ; for 
ruffed grouse (partridge), and for woodcock, from Decem- 
ber 1st to September ist ; and for quail or pinnated grouse 
(prairie-chicken), from January ist to September ist. No 
one shall kill, sell, or have in possession, except alive, 
any of said birds, nor carry nor transport the same during 
the period in which their killing is prohibited, under a 
penalty of not less than five dollars, nor more than ten 
dollars for each bird. — Ibid. §§ 12, 16, as amended by 
ch. 126 of the Acts of 1879. 

None of the above birds, nor any wild duck can law- 
fully be taken in snares or traps. Penalty, five dollars for 
each bird. — Ibid. § 13. 

The wanton taking, or destruction, of the eggs or un- 
fledged young of any wild bird, except of crows, hawks, or 
owls, is punishable by a fine of from one to ten dollars for 
each nest-egg or young so taken or destroyed. — Ibid. § 15. 

Chapter 50 of the Acts of 1878 does not apply either 
to commissioned taxidermists, or to the shooting of ducks 
on the sea-coast. — Ibid. §§17, 19. 



FISH. 

The "close-time " for land-locked salmon, trout, and 
togue is from October ist to May ist (except on the St. 
Croix River and its tributaries, and on all the waters in 
Kennebec County, where it extends from September 15th 
to May 1st) ; for black bass, Oswego bass, and white 



134 MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 

perch, from April ist to July ist. —Acts of 1878, ch, 75, 
§ 13, as amended by ch, 122 of the Acts of 1879. 

The penalty attached to the foregoing section is not 
less than ten dollars, nor more than thirty dollars, and a 
further fine of one dollar for each fish taken. In Febru- 
ary, March, and April, however, citizens of Maine may 
" fish for and take land-locked salmon, trout, and togue, 
and convey the same to their own homes." — Ibid. § 15, 
as amended by ch. 122 of the Acts of 1879. 

The use of grapnel, spear, trawl, weir, net, seine, trap, 
set-line, and spoon, either through the ice or otherwise, 
is prohibited. Only hand-fishing, with a single-baited 
hook or line, or with artificial files, is legal. The penalty 
for disregarding this section is the same as that of sec- 
tion 15, and all grapnels, etc. are forfeited if found in use 
or operation, any person being authorized in such case to 
destroy them. — Ibid. § 14. 

No person shall sell, expose for sale, or have in pos- 
session with intent to sell, or transport from place to 
place, within the State, any of the above fish during the 
period in which the taking of said fish is prohibited. All 
such shall be deemed to have killed, caught, or trans- 
ported the same contrary to law, and be liable to the penal- 
ties provided. Penalty from ten dollars to fifty dollars. — 
Ibid. ^§ 16, 17, as amended by ch. 122, Acts of 1879. 

" No person shall fish in that portion of a pond, or other 
water, in which fish are artificially cultivated or main- 
tained by the written permission of the fish-commission- 
ers, without the permission of the proprietor, under a 
penalty of not less than ten nor more than one hundred 
dollars, and an additional penalty of two dollars for each 
fish so taken or killed." — Ibid. § 24. 



TOURS FOR CAMPERS, 135 



TOURS FOR CAMPERS. 



The following tables will show approximately the 
time needed to make several of the more usual tours, 
around and near Moosehead Lake. The night passed 
on the cars from Boston to Bangor is not reckoned in 
the tables, so that the " third night " means the night 
of the third day from Boston. 

One must needs be on the move pretty much all the 
time, to carry out the programme laid down, and it 
may be well to add two or three days, in fourteen, for 
wet weather and other drawbacks. The enjoyment 
and comfort of campers will be greatly enhanced if 
they take half as much time again for each tour as is 
here thought necessarv. 



No. I. — One Week. 

MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

Boston to Mount Kineo i day. 

Head of lake and return i day. 

Socatean River i day. 

East Outlet i day. 

Brassua Lake 2 days. 

Mount Kineo to Boston i day. 



7 days. 



136 MOOSEIIEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 



No. II. — Two Weeks. 



MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. 



Boston to Mount Kineo . . . . 

Mount Kineo House 

Urassua Lake 

'ronihcf^an and Socatcan Streams 

Mount Kineo House 

Spencer Pond 

East Outlet 

Greenville 

Wilson I'ond 

Greenville to Boston 



I day. 

1 day. 

2 days. 
2 days. 

1 day. 

2 days. 
2 days. 
I day. 

I day. 
I day. 

14 days. 



No. III. — Two Weeks. 



UP THE WEST BRANCH OF THE PENOBSCOT. 



Boston to Mount Kineo , 
Nelhudus Stream, or See])oomook 
To Forks of West Branch 
To Hale Brook .... 
Hale and Alder Brooks . 
To Penobscot Brook (?) . 
Back to Canada Falls. . 
To Gulliver Falls . . . 
To Northwest. Carry . . 

To Kineo 

To Boston 



Fal 



1 day. 

2 days. 
I day. 

I day. 

3 days. 
I day. 
I day. 

I day. 
I day. 
I day. 
I day. 

14 days. 



No. IV.— Two Weeks. 
DOWN THE WEST BRANCH (^F THE PENOBSCOT. 

Boston to Moosehead Lake ist day. 

Greenville or Mt Kineo to Moosehorn Str. 2d day. 



TOURS FOR CAMPERS. 137 

Weymouth Point, — Chesuncook Lake . 3d night. 

Ripogenus Carry 4th night. 

Sourdnahunk Dead-Water 6th night. 

Sandy Stream, — Foot of Mt. Katahdin . 8th night. 

Sandy Stream 9th night. 

Ambajejus Lake loth night. 

Fowler's, or Medway nth night. 

Mattawamkeag 12th night 

Boston 14th day. 



No. v. — Two Weeks. 

DOWN THE ST. JOHN RIVER. 

Boston to Moosehead Lake ist day. 

Moosehead Lake to Moosehorn Stream . 2d day. 

Umbazooksus Lake 3d night. 

Chamberlain Lock 4th night. 

Thoroughfare Brook, or Chase's Carry . 6th night. 

Umsaskis Lake, or Long Lake .... 8th night. 

AUagash Falls 9th night. 

Madawaska nth night 

Grand Falls 12th night 

Woodstock 13th night 

Boston 15th day. 

No. VI. — Fifteen Days. 

CAUCOMGOMOC LAKE. 

Boston to Moosehead Lake ist day. 

Moosehead Lake to Moosehorn Stream . 2d day. 

Lower Falls, — Caucomgomoc Stream . 3d night. 

Caucomgomoc Lake 4th night, 

Avery Brook 5th night 

Round Pond 6th night 

Poland Pond i day. 

Daggett Pond and Shallow Lake . . . i day. 

AUagash Lake and return to Round Pond 3 days. 



138 MOOSEIIEAD LAKE AXD VICINITY. 

Caucomgomoc Stream ' 12th night. 

Moosehorn Stream 13th night. 

Mount Kineo House 14th night. 

Boston 16th day. 

No. VII. Two AND A HALF TO ThREE WeEKS. 

FORKS AND MOOSE RIVER. 

Boston to the Forks i clay. 

The Korks 3 days. 

Jacknian House 2 days. 

Moose River Village 7th night. 

Hokb Falls 9th night. 

Lowell Falls nth night. 

Attean Pond, via Holcb Pond .... 13th night. 

Moose River Village 14th night. 

The Forks 15th night. 

Boston 17th day. 

Mooschead Lake I7tli night. 

Boston 22d day. 



The following table gives the approximate expense 
of making each of the foregoing excursions from, or 
in the vicinity of Moosehead Lake, with one guide, 
and one or two tourists to a canoe. Under " R. R. 
Fares," there is included, in Tours 4, 5, and 7, besides 
meals and sleeping-car berths, the cost of transporting 
guide and canoe from the end of the journey back to 
his home. 

The car-fare from Boston to Mount Kineo is $8.50 ; 
to Mattawamkeag, $8.40, — limited ^7.40; and to 
Woodstock, $10.00. 



^ 


O" 


Ln 


- 


o. 


. 


« 


l^j 




Q 

n 


d 

on 

3 

n 


3 

3 

3 

3- 

O 


3* 

;? 

3 


i* 
sr 

n 
< 


1 

r 


1 

7) 








1? 


1? 




'i9 


Duration of 
Tour. 


M ; - 


M :« 


";" 


N 


- 


K> :» 


K> :- 


- 


" 


ToiiristB. 


8:8 


N : - 

8:8 


-4 : M 

Si's 




1 


8:8 


8:8 


^ 
§ 


w 
^ 


R.R. Fares, 
incl. Meals 
& Sleeping- 
Cars. 




8i8 


8 8 


4>- 

8 


1 


8;8 








M. H. Lake 
Steamer, 
Pas Rentiers 
& Canoe. 


o ^ 

8 8 


818 


i^ 


p 
8 


"i 


5 u. 
8^8 


si's 


o 

8 


8 


Hotels. 


8 


8 




8 


8 


•3 


8 


Guide. 


8:8 


8^8 


00 M 

8 8 


8 


J 


oo'm 

8^8 


w : 00 

8i8 


8 


1 


Provisions. 




1 


1 




1 






Carries. 


8 


00 




00 



00 


8 


=«» 


1 

m 

1 


lA 3 


O 
O 




1 


8 


o 


8 




8 


ii 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 



Thp: author respectfully calls the attention of his 
readers to the various advertisements which make a 
])art of this volume. They are arranged by groups, in 
regular sequence, and contain a great deal of important 
information, which from its ephemeral character could 
not well be incorporated in the text. As far as the 
autiior is aware, the statements in them are authentic 
and reliable. 



INDEX. 



Abacotnetic Bog 

Abbot 

Aboljackomegus Falls 
„ Stream 

Accidents 

Adams's House . . 
Advertisements . . . 
Alder Hrook .... 
Alder Ground . • . 
Allagash Falls . . . 

„ Lake . . . 

„ Pond . . . 

„ River . 

„ Stream 
Anibajejus FalU 



PAGE 

87, 88, 89, 92, 93 
112, 113 



Lake 



• • 73 

• 7>> 73 

• 29, 30 

. . 125 

. . 140 

83, 85, M6 
55, 88, 89 

• »o5. »07. '37 

• 99> «oo, 137 

• . . . lOI 
93, loi, 106, 107 

. • . 100, lOI 

• • 74, 75. 76 



A u'' r"~" ;- • -74.77, 137 
Ambajemackomus Larry . 70, 75 

Arches 69, 70 

Arnold 119 

Aroostook River 104 

Ascent of Mt Katahdin . . . 71 

,, „ Kineo .... 49 

Attean Pond .... 126, 138 

„ Rips 127 

Auburn 117 

Avery Brook . . . . 95, 96, 137 
„ Pond 95, 99 

B Pond Ill 

Babel Brook 112 

Baker Bog 92 

Baker Brook . . . . 59, 92, 123 

„ Lake 92, 93 

,, Stream 92 

Bald Brook 84 

„ Mountain 86 

,, Rock 123 

Bangor ... 39, 40, 75, 106, 135 

„ and Piscataquis R. R. . 40, 

109, 112 

Barrett Brook 127 

Big Benson Pond 115 

„ Gulf Stream 128 

„ Gull Rock 52 

„ Heater 69 



PAGE 

Big Island 62, 81 

,, Lane Brook 86 

,j Little Wood Pond ... 126 

Bigelow, Mount ii8 

Bingham 121 

Birch Mountain 114 

„ Point 52 

Black Narrows 123 

,. Pond 94. «24 

,, River Rapids .... 93 

Blanchard 39, 40, 41 

Blethen Landing 113 

Bodfish Falls 54 

Bog Brook 83, 123 

Boston 39, 40, 106, 120, 122, 135, 

136, 137, 138 

Boston & Maine R. R. . . 39, 117 

Bradstreet's Farm 127 

Brandy Brook 94 

Brassua Lake . • • 55, 135, 136 

,, Stream 56 

Brownville 109, iii 

Buck's Cove 114 

Buoy 52 

Burnt Jacket 45 

Buttermilk Pond 115 

Camp-fire 24 

Camp-ground 22, 23 

Camp " Kit" . . . . 4, 5, 6, 7 
„ ornamentation ... 23, 24 

„ Pocahontas 80 

Canada . . . .78, 117, 119, 121 
Canada Falls . . 78, 82, 85, 136 
,, Road ... 57, 124, 125 
Canoes . . . . . 16, 17, 18, 19 
Capen's Landing .... 45, 48 

Carabassett River 118 

Caribou Lake 65 

„ Narrows 123 

„ Stream 65 

Carratunk 121, 124 

Carry Brook 77 

„ Pond 69, 70 

Carrying-Place Ponds . 119, 124 



142 



INDEX. 



PAGR 

Caucomgomoc Lake 93, 94, 95, 96, 

99, 100, 137 

River 94, loi, 137. 138 

CaucomRoniocsis 96 

Cedar Mountain 112 

,, Ponds 112 

Centre Island 59 

Chain Ponds 119 

Cliairback Mountain . . . . iii 

,, Ponds Ill 

Chamberlain Farm .... 102 

„ Lake 93, 98, 101, 102, 

105, 107 

„ Lock . 103, 107. 137 

Chase's Carry . . . 105, 107, 137 

„ Dam 104 

Cheniquasabamticook Lake . 10 1 

Chesuncouk Dam .... 66, 75 

„ Lake 47, 62, 64, 65, 66, 

67, 75. '^3. y4. 99^ 'oo, 101, 137 

Churchill Lake 104 

,, Stream .... 46, 55 

Cliff Be.ich 49, 52 

Climbing; 30 

Coburn Farm 57 

,, Field 124 

<-'olds 32. 33, 34 

Cold Stream 124 

Cooking 25, 26, 27 

Cowen's Cove 52 

Crawford Pond 112 

Cuxabexis Lake 65 



Dapgett Pond 
Dam Pitch . 
Davis's . . 
Day-Dream . 
Dead River . 



Village 



-Hole 



] )ebsconeak 
] )eer Island 
l)e])ot Farm 
Devil's Hlow 

„ Delight. . 

„ KIIhjw . . 

„ Table , . 

Dole Brook . . . 

Falls . 

I ole Pond . . . 

,, Storehouse 
Dover .... 
Dressing Game . 
Duck Cove . . 
,. Pond . . 
Ducks .... 



97. 98, 99, «37 
79 

• 4^' 

• 54 
I iS, 1 19 

. 119 

• 73 
45, 4« 

. 105 

• 59 

• 52 
. 105 

• 123 
87, 88, 89, 91 

80,91 
90, 91 
90, 91 

• 41 
28, 29 

• 58 
. 65 
. 131 



PAGB 

Eagle Lake 103 

„ Narrows .... 104 

Eagle Stream 43 

East Branch Penobscot 75, 103, 107, 
109, 116 

,, Cove 41 

„ Outlet .... 45, 135, 136 

Eastern R. R 39, 117 

Ebeeme Mountains .... 41 
,, Ponds . . . 109, no, 112 

Elbow P.og 124 

Ellis Pond 124 

Elm Pond 79 

„ Stream 79 

European & N. A. Railway 39, 40, 

Eustis Village iiq 

Eveleth House 42 

Expenses 5, «39 

P'arm Island 59 

fatigue 34, 35 

Female Pond 77 

Fish 129 

„ Laws 130, 133, 134 

„ Pond 124 

Fishing Tackle I3, 53 

Fitzgerald Pond 43 

Flagstaff Village 119 

Florenceville 106 

Forks of Kennebec "7-«25, 138 

,, of West Branch . . . 136 

,, Plantation 121 

F'ort Kent 106 

Fowler's Carry 75, 137 

Foxcroft 112, 113 

Fox Hole 62, 64 

Fredericton 106 

Frost Brook 66 

,, Pond 68, 90, 91 

Game 129 

,. I-aws 132, 133 

Gauntlet 112 

Gerrish Pond 43 

(jold Mine 52 

Grand Falls 75. 105, 106, 107, lot), 

120, 137 

,, Lake .... 108, io() 

Granite Mountain 114 

Green Mountains .... 87, 88 
Greenville . 40-44, 46, 53, 107, 136 

Grindstone Falls log 

,, Pond . . . . 114, 115 

Guides 19, 20, 21 

(lulf Ill, 112 

Gull Rock 52 



INDEX. 



143 



Gulliver Falls , 
„ Pitch 
,, Stream 

Guns . . . 



Hale Brook . . 
Hard Scrabble . 
Harrington Lake 

,, Stream 

Hatheway's . . 
Hay mock Lake . 
Heater. . . : 
High Landing . 
Hilton's . , . 
Ho« Hack Island 
Holeb Falls . . 

„ Pond . . 

,. Stream . 
Horace Falls 
Horseback Mountai 
Horseshoe Pond 
Hotels 42, 46, 51 
114, 1 16, 1 19, I 
Houston Dead-Wat 

Ponds . 
Hunger . . . 
Hurd Po)»ds . . 
Hygienic Notes 

Indian Pond 45, 

„ Stream . 

Island Falls . . 



Jackman . . . 
Johnson's Landing 
Jo Mary Lakes 
Road 



46. 54 



PAGE 

80, 81, 136 

. . 70 

. . 80 

• i3i 19 

83, 84, 136 
. . 49 

. 67, 68 

. . 67 

. . 65 

. . 103 

. . 69 

. 87, 88 

121, 125 

. . 48 
27, 128, 138 

126, ^38 

127, 128 



65, 



no, 124 
'", «i3, 
«25, 139 



. . Ill 

• 34, 35 
. . 96 
29 et seq. 



55, 124, 125 
. 124 
. 67 



I2S» 138 

• 43 

76, 109, 112 

109, I 10, 112 



Katahdin. — See Mt- Kafahdin. 

,, Iron-Works. 47, 109, in 

,, Lake 116 

„ Pond 73 

Katepskonegan Dead-Water . 73 
Kennebec 4i,45> 52, 117-120, 123-125 

,, Dam 45 

Kineo. — See Mt. Kineo. 

„ Bay . . . • ... 49 

,, Point 49 

King's High Landing ... 81 

Kinneho 50 

Knight's Pond 124 

Knights's Farm 81 

Lake House 42, 114 

,, Megantic 119 

Lane's Clearing .... 78, 81 

Lang Pond 125 

,, Stream 125 



PACK 

Leadbetter Brook 86 

„ Falls .... 87, 89 

Ledge Falls 119 

Legend 50 

Lewiston 117 

Lily Bay 46 

,, Mountains .... 41 

Liquors 12, 35, 36, 37 

Little Brassua Pond ... 56, 57 

,, Gulf Stream 128 

„ Gull Rock 52 

„ Heater 69 

„ Indian Pond .... 124 

„ Kineo 48 

„ Pleasant Pond .... 47 

,, Scott Brook 94 

,, Spencer Pond .... 47 

„ Wood Pond 126 

Lobster Lake 64 

,. Stream 62, 63 

Long Palls 119, 120 

„ Lake . 93, 101, 105, 107, 137 
„ Pond 57,91,111,119,124,125 

Loon Lake 96, 99 

Lowell Falls 128, 138 

Lucky Pond 48 

Luggage 7-13 

Madawaska 137 

„ River . . . 106, 107 

Madison 118 

Maine Central R. R. . . . 39, 117 

Maquaso 50 

Mattawamkeag 75, 76, 109, 115, 137 
138 

McKinney's Farm 126 

Medway 109, 137 

Megantic Lake 119 

Miasm 31 

Middle Branch 89 

Millinokett Lake .... 73, 77 
„ Stream .... 75 

Milo 40, 109 

Miseree Stream 55 

Moody Islands 48, 53 

Moose Brook 59- ^5 

Moosehead Lake 39-4', 44j S°i 57> 

61, 77, 117, 125. 130, 135- '3i5 

Moosehorn Stream 62, 64, 107, 136, 

137, »38 

Moose Pond 65 

,, River 45, 52, 55, 56, 57, 126, 

127 

„ Bridge .... 57 

,, „ Village . 121, 125, 138 

Morris Farm . . . 61, 62, 64, 79 

Moscow »21 



144 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Mosquito Narrows .... 123 

,, Pond 123 

,, Repellent .... 12 

,, Stream 123 

Mount Abraham i iS 

,, Bigelow 118 

,, Katahdin 40, 6j, 64, 66, 68, 

69> 7>. 73i 75. 77. "5. > '6, 137 

„ Kineo 44, 45, 48, 53, 55, 57- 

5Q, 64, 107, 130, 135, 136, 138 

,, Kineo House 49, 51, 53, 54, 

136, 138 

Moxie Palls 122 

„ Mountain 121 

„ Pond 122 

,, Stream 122 

Mud Pond 93, 101, 102 

,, Carry 102 

Mummer-Nunner-Lungen Pond iii 

Munsiingan Lake 104 

Murphy's Farm 94 

Muskrat Pond 77 

Mystic Grotto 52 

Nalimakanta Lake • . . • 76, 77 
Nolhudus .Stream . . .80,81,136 

New IJrunswick 103 

Norridgcwock 117 

Norris Hrook 88, Sq 

Niirih Anson .... 117-119, 122 

North Hronk 46 

,, Hraiich 81, 85. 86, 88, 90, 91 
,, Twin Dam .... 74, 76 

,, „ Lake 74 

Northeast Carry 5S, 50, 61, 78, 79 
Nortliwest Carry . 59, 77-79. "36 

Norton's Farm 110 

Number in Party 3 

( )ld Canada Road 78, 80, 82, 83, 84 

( )ldtown 39. 40 

( )re Mountain 11 1 

Oitcr Pond 124 

Outfit 3. -4 

Pack-straps 11 

I'addling 16 

Pamedomcook Lake ... 74, 76 

Parlin Pond 125, 127 

Parti idges 131 

Party 2 

Passamagamock Falls ... 74 

Pearl Pond no 

Pebble Reach 49. 52 

Pfirce Ponds 124 

Penobscot . ■ 41, 50, 61. 64, 68, 79 
„ Brook ... 84, 8s, 136 



PACK 

Penobscot Lake 84 

,, Pond 77 

Personal Luggage 7~i3 

Pine Mountain 114 

,, Stream Falls ... 62, 63, 64 

Piscataquis 40 

Pleasant Pond 123 

,, River 109-112 

Pocahontas Camp 80 

Pockwockamus I)e.-\d-Water • 73 
Falls .... 73 

Poland Brook 97. 98 

,, Pond .... 98, 99, 137 

Poling 17 

Pollywog Pond 77 

Poinolah Mmintain .... 73 
Posture in Canoe .... 17, 18 

Portland 106 

Profile 50 

Provisions H. '5. «6 

Putting-in Place 6g 

Quakish Lake 74 

Quebec 121 

Quicksands 31 

RapmufF Stream 6a 

Rauilv.w Lake 761 77 

Rankin's F.ills 123 

kasles. Father 117 

Recipes 35, 36, 27 

Ripogenus Carry . . 69,75,137 

., Gorge 68 

Lake 66-69 

Riviire du Loup 121 

Roach Pond 46. 47 

,, Rivi-r 46 

Robbins Hill 121 

Robert Brook 9a 

Rocky Kips 62, 63 

Rolling Dam Ledge .... 57 
Round Pond. . . 55.96, 99, 137 
Routes. . . 39, 40, 115, 117, 120 

Russell Bnxik 104 

,, Mountain 40 

,, Pond 79 

„ Stream 79 

Sam's Pitch SS 

Sand Bar 4^ 

,, Island 48 

Sandy Bay 84, 121 

„ Stream ... 71, 73, 75 

Schoodic Lake .... 109, no 

Sears's Clearing 62 

Sea.son i, 3 

Sebec Corner 113 



INDEX. 



145 



PAGE 

Sebec Lake . . . • 112, 113, 115 

„ Village 112, 113 

Second Lake 108 

Seeboomook Falls . . .78, 79, 136 
„ Island ... 78, 79 

„ Meadows ... 78 

„ Stream ... 79, 8 1 

Seven Islands 93» «os 

Shad Pond 75. 76 

Shallow Lake .... 97-99. »37 
Sherman Village . . . 115, 116 

Ship Pond 115 

., Stream . . . 114, 115 

Shirley 41 

Skinninp Game 28 

Skowhegan • . 117, 118, 120, 121 

Slate Mountain 114 

SlauRhter Pond 68 

Smith Brook 103 

Smith's Farm 127 

Snare lirook 104 

Socatean Falls 58 

„ Point 59 

„ P<'ol 58 

„ River ... 58, 135, 136 

Solon 118, 120, 121 

Somerset R. R 117, 118 

Soper Brook 67, 104 

Sourdnahunk Carry .... 71 

„ Dead-Water 70, 71, 

137 

„ Lake .... 67 

„ Mountains . . 66 

,, Stream ... 67, 71 

South Branch Penobscot 81, 82, 85. 

86 

South Lagrange 40 

„ Sebec 112 

Spencer Bay 45. 46, 47 

,, Brook 46. 47 

„ Mountains .... 47, 64 

„ Pond 47. >36 

„ Rips 127 

Spencer's Camp 87-89 

Spider Lake 104 

Spruce Mountain Pond . . . 11 1 

Square Lake 105 

Squaw Brook 43 

,, Mountain 41 

„ Pond 43 

Stacyville 116 

Steamboats 44. 54 

Stimulation 12, 35-57 

St. John 50, 106 

„ Pond .... 89, 91-93 

,. River 93, i37 

St. Joseph 121 



PAGE 

Stony Brook Rapids .... 57 

Store 53 

Sugar Island . . . . 45, 50 

Summit of Katahdin .... 72 

Sun-stroke 34 

Swan's Farm 80, 81 

Swimming 30 

Table-Land 72 

Table Rock 49 

Taking Cold 32-34 

Teios Lake 103, 107 

Telosmis 107 

Ten-thousand Acre Ponds . . 124 

Tent 6, 22, 23 

Thoroughfare Brook . 104, 107, 137 

Three Brooks 127 

„ Sisters 49, 50, 52 

Tobique 106 

Tom P'letcher Brook .... 56 

Tomhegan Pond 124 

„ River . . 57, 58, 136 

Toulbah Mountains .... 100 

Tours 135, '39 

Traveller Mountains .... 108 

Trout Brook 108 

Truesdell's Camp 88, 89 

Twin Brooks 104 

Umbazooksus Lake . 102, 107, 137 

,, Stream . . .93, loi 

Umsaskis Lake . . . 105, 107, 137 

Uncle Jim's Carry 114 

Upper Dam, — South Branch . 85 

Wadleigh Brook ... . 67, 99 

,, Pond 77 

Wangen Brook no 

Wassataquoik Mountain ... 73 
,, Stream. . . . 116 

Waterville 120 

Webster Brook 108 

,, Lake . . . 103, 107, 108 

West Branch Penobscot 62-64, 68, 

75, 78, 109, 136 

„ Cove 43 

46, 54 
[ 17-120 
65, 137 

• 59 
43. 136 
[13-115 

. 124 

• 92 
24, 25 

57. 126 
107, 137, 138 



„ Outlet Stream 
„ Waterville . . 
Weymouth Point . 
Williams Stream 
Wilson Ponds . . . 
,, Stream . . 
Wilson's Hill Pond 
Woboostook Stream 

Wood 

,, Pond . . . 
Woodstock. . . 106, 



FORKS OF THE KENNEBEC AND DEAD RIVER 

Reached most comfortably via the 

Somerset Railroad, 

Connecting at West Waterville with through trains on the 
Maine Central Railroad, via 

AUBURN Mm LEWISTOM, 

From Boston and points further West. 

LEAVING 

West Waterville at 4.10 p.m., passengers arrive in North Anson 
at 5.25 P.M., connect there with daily stage to Solon or Bing- 
Iiam, and continue the next morning up the Kennebec River to 
the Forks. 

From North Anson is the shortest and most attractive route 
up the Valley of the Carabassett, to Dead River and Flagstaff, 
passing near Mounts Bigelow and Abraham. 



RETURNING. 

Train leaves North Anson at 7.45 a.m., connecting at West 
Waterville with through train for Boston. 



JOHN AYER, Pres't., W. M. AYER, Gen. Tick. Ag't. 

West Water c ill e. West Waterville. 



Wafer Street, Sl^owhe^on, Maine. 



F. B. HESELTON, Proprietor. 



This Hotel, pleasantly situated near the Falls of the \ 
Kennebec, and within easy reach of the Railroad Depot, 
contains a hundred bed- rooms, besides Billiard- Room 
and elegant Dance-Hall. j 

Summer Boarders ran have GOOD ROOMS 
ami hoard, at from $1,00 to $2.00 per day. j 

Good Livery-Stable connected with the Hotel, where teams \ 
can always be had at reasonable rates. I 

Stages leave the house every morning {Sundays excepted) \ 
for Solon, Bingham, and the Forks of the Kennebec. 



THE FORKS STAGE, 

W. Q. ffESELTQN & SQN.t FroprietQrs, 



Runs daily (Sundays excepted), between Skowhegan 
and the Forks of tje Kennebec, through Madison^ 
Solon, Bingham, Moscow, and Carratunk. 

Leaves Skowhegan at 6.30 A.M. 

,, the Forks at 6.30 a.m. 

Round Trip Tickets can be bought, at reduced rates, 
in Boston, Porthmd, and on the line of the Maine Central 
Ilailroad. 



Excursion Ticket from Boston to the Forks 
and Return, $14.00. 

Carratunk House, 

SOLOI^, J\IJlIJSfJE. 
jr. H. GK,A.^i^, Proprietor. 



A good Hotel, with good Accommodations, and an 
excellent Liver rj Stable. 

Summer Boarders wanted. Terms Reasonable. 



TH E 

p .^ ^fs. wia .fift 



lEi Uttll^ 



JOSEPH CLARK, Proprietor. 



Newly built expressly for Suniiner Visitors, and contains 
seventy-five nicely-furnislied rooms. It is situated on the banks 
of the Kennebec, near tiie mouth of Dead Kiver, forty-six miles 
from Skowhe{?an, and on the mail road to Canada. 

First-rale Fisliiiig& lliinliiur-lirounds close al hand 

The famous Moxie Pond, one of the finest fishing-ponds in the 
neighborhood, is only six miles from the liotel. 

Guides furnished at §1.00 per day. Address Horace Adams, 
John Adams, or the Proprietor of the P\)rks Hotel. 



STAGE HOUSE 

BINGHAM, MAINE. 

After a year's absence, the subscriber has returned to his old 
quarters, and, with a house thoroughly repaired and refurnished, 
is ready to receive liis old friends and the travelling public, to 
whom lie extends a cordial welcome. Terms reasonable. 

G. W. SAVAGE, Proprietor. 



JACKMAH HOtlSE, 

Jackmantown, Somerset County, Maine. 

A. F. ADAMS, PiioPKiETOK. 

Twenty miles above the Forks, on the main road to CaiuldUf 
and three miles from PAUL IX I*OND, cne of the best 
trout-ponds in the County. 

Guides furnished to parties, at ."Jl.OO per day. 

GOOD HUNTING IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD. 



The stajje runs three times a week, on Tuesdays, Thursdays 
and {Saturdays, from the Forks to Moose River ViUage, returning 
on ahernate days. Fare §2.00. Passengers dine at Jackman- 
town. j 
A, F. ADAMS, rroprietor. 



VOSE & PAUL, 

PHOTOGRAPHERS 

SKOWHEOAN, ME. 

Stereoscopic Views of KENNEBEC and PENOBSCOT 
waters, particularly of MOOSEHEAD LAKE and 
the KENNEBEC RIVER. 



FIRST CLASS WORK FURNISHED AT REASONABLE RATES, 
AND SATISFACTION GUARANTEED. 



Utiyafjcfod J'ak, 



HOTELS, STORES, AND STEAMER. 



1 Elfll lilSl, 



Twenty miles by road from Greenville, at the foot of Roach 
Pond, Reached comfortably by steamer to Lily Bay, thence 
by team, seven miles, over a good road. 

The Trout-Fishing in its neighborhood is unexcelled 
by any on Moosehead Lake. 

The hotel, a new and coniniodious two-story building, can ac- 
commodate a goodly number of guests, and the wants of visitors 
will receive careful attention. 



TEPLl^^S E^A^SY. 



Canoes and Boats to let. 

LEVI DAVIS, Proprietor. 




it .1 Jrllf'(/*J'ri» 






^ ^' '':,- 'ii'ijW'i'f'!'.;;! 



MOUNT KINEO 

Is a magnificent promontory, situated near the middle of 

SHoosehead LaTce, 

In the State of Maine, and almost divides the Lake, as it rises 
from the water to a perpendicular height of nearly 1,200 /eef. 

Iff i iiifi iltii iiip 

Is situated at the foot of Mount Kineo, in close 
proximity to the 

FAVORITE HUNTING AND FISHING GROUNDS, 

And in the midst of the 

For which the region is famed. Nearly one thousand feet above 
the sea level, surrounded by the great pine-forests, and fanned 
by breezes passing over the clear waters of the Lake, the Mount 
Kineo House offers many inducements to those seeking ref- 
uge from the city-heats, and to 

SUFFERERS FROM HAY-FEVER. 

The attractions for sportsmen at this resort are too well known 
to need comment. Every thing required for a trip in the woods 
may be obtained at the house. Boats, birch-canoes, &c., are al- 
ways in readiness. The elegant little steamer " Day-Dream " will 
always be available for the use of the guests of the house. Bil- 
liard-room, bowling-alleys, and croquet-grounds are convenient 
and in good order. For any information, address 

O. A. DENNEN, Superintendent, 

MoDKT KiNEO House, Moosehead Lake, Me. 



IVI EALS. 

Breakfast, 7.30 to 9 a.m. ; Dinner, 1| p.m. ; Supper, 6| p.m. 

BOARD AND LODGING. 

Single person, $8.00 to $15.00 a week, according to location of 
room. 

Man and wife, •'^15.00 to §25.00. 

Children, usually half price. 

Nurse and young child (under two years), Sl.OO to $1.50 a day. 

Transients, $2.00 to .$2.50 a day. 

Single meals, 75 cents ; Lodging, 50 cents. 

In July, a discount of 15 per cent is made on the above prices. 

BOATS. 

Row-boats to let, at 50 cents a day, or $2.50 a week. 
Canoes, 25 cents a day, — for long trips, less. 

The "DAY-DREAM," $10.00 a day. 

To Head of Lake, .^10.00. To Lily Bay or Spencer Bay, $5.00. 
To East Outlet, $3.00 to $4.00, — large parties, 25 cents apiece. 
To Socatean or Tomhegan, §3.00 to $5.00, —according to size of 
party. 

Around the Mountain, parties of twelve or fifteen, 25 cts. apiece. 

FARES ON STEAMERS. 

Greenville to Kineo, or reverse, $1.00; round trip, $1.50. 

Kineo to Greenville and return, not necessarily on same day 

(guests of hotel), 75 cents. 
Kineo to Head of Lake and return on same trip (guests of 

hotel), $1.00. 



EAST OUTLET HOUSE, ; 

KENNEBEC DAM, HOOSEHEAD LAKE. i 

HENRY I. WILSOX, I'roprielor. ] 



Favorite Resort for Fishermen 



Tlie iiKiny pools in the river, close at hand, furnish 
exciting s}>()rt to the lovers of fly-fisiiing, while the near 
vicinity of Churchill Stream, Wetd Outlet, and Jndidn Pond, 
serves materially to increase the attractions of the place. 
Mr. Wilson's knowledge of, and familiarity with the best 
hunting and fishing-grounds in the neighborhood, makes 
him a valuable adjunct to parties in quest of pleasure. 



FAIRY OF THE LAKE, 

Kcniodfllt'd, and thoroughly ovcihanlcd, is ready to run 
regular trips to Mr. Kinko, or the Ileiid of the Lake ; will 
also run, when desired, to Si'KN'cku Bay, Lily Bay, 
East Outlet, or any other point on 

MQOSEHEAD LAKi. 



Reasonable terms offered to Excursionists, by the day, 
or for a longer time. Address, — 

J. H. EVELETH, 

GREENVILLK, MAINE. 



Greenville, Moosehead Lake. 



On the HIGHEST and COOLEST part of 
the village, it commands a fine view of the 
LAKE and its picturesque islands, near at hand, 
and is conveniently located near the head-quar- 
ters of the BLANCHARD STAGE LINE, 
and directly opposite the POST-OFFICE, and 
GROCERY STORE of J. H. EVELETH & 
CO. 

The House has ample accommodations for 
fifty people ; and no pains are spared to make 
its guests comfortable and at home. 



Prices Moderate. Teams to Let. 



Stage Passengers en route for Kineo dine here, 
and are conveyed to the STEAMER free of 
charge. 

AMOS H. WALKER, Proprietor. 



AND 

STJIPIPLIES. 



J. H. EVELETH «fe CO., 

Opposite the EVELETH HOUSE, and connected 
with the POST-OFFICE. 

GREENVILLE, MAINE. 



Coiisfftnfff/ on tmniJ a t/enrrftl assorfnirnf of 
Stuplf . I'rovisioNSf J>rt/ (iootis, (Jrochevy^ and 
(Hassware^ T^rinjs^ ll<trihr(irr^ LunthrrniCN's 
Stijpplics^ Ilshhif/ T<t('hft\ ami Aintn imltitm. 

Sl'ORTSMI'N'S AND QMI'KKS' OUTFITS 

Carefully put up, and jutt on board the Stetnner, 
if'hile jtaAsengers arc at dinner. 



D. T. SANDEES, 







GREENVILLE, MAINE. 



Hardware, Glassware, Crockery, Dry Goods, 
and Groceries of all kinds and descriptions ; 
Canned Goods, Tea, Coffee, and Baking-Powder; 
Fishing Lines find Trout-Plies in great variety; 
Paddles and Setting Poles. 



Wants of Campers carefully attended to. 



Canoes to let by the week or month, at rea- 
sonable rates. 



M. e. SHAW & SOHS, 

Groceries aM Hardware. 

Steamboat Wharf, adjoining Lake House. 



Flour, Sugar, Canned Vegetables and Fruits, 

Shoes, Moccasons, Woollen Shirts, 

Socks, Bakers, Frying-pans, 

Pails and Tin-ware, Drugs, 

and Lumbermen's 

Supplies, all at 

Reasonable 

Prices. 



CANOES FOR SALE AND TO LET. 

G-reertv^ille, JVCcuirte. 



cAMPme & iiSHm& APmAKcis. 




It is impossible here to mention all tlie items. Send for our Retail Cat- 
alofine of FISHING TACKLE AND ANGLERS' IMPLEMENTS, 

which contains the details of kvkry thini; nkkdkd fok fishing. 

Among our CAMPING CONVENIENCES are Portable Cookers; 
Pocket Cook Stoves; Jack and Fishing I.ani|.8; Sportsmen's Oil Tanne«l 
Moceasons, Knee Boots, Slippers, Ladies' Moceasons; Pocket Compasses; 
Boat Corapa.s86s; Pocket Drinking Cujts; Flasks; Mosquito Head Shields; 
Culexifuge (ointment to repel Black Unats); Travellers' Lunch Baskets; 
Tourists' Dressing-Cases; Field and Opera Classes; Hunting Knives; Sports- 
men's Knives; UNION WEB HAMMOCKS (cheap in price, while they 
are the strongest and most durable); Camp Stools; Patent Rowlocks. 

Orders taken for (rrares\i Adirondack Boats. 

BEADFOED & ANTHONY, 374 WASHINaTON ST., BOSTON. 

CHESUMCOOK FARM Mm 



Situated at the head of Chesuncook Lake, on its 
Western Shore. Magnificent Panorama of Mt. Katahdin 
and the Sourdnahunk Mountains. 

Meals and lodging furnished at all times on short notice. 
Fresh milk constantly on hand. 

Campers going down the St. John, or Penobscot Rivers, 
or up to Caucomgomoc Lake, supplied with Pork, Flour, 
and Potatoes. 




WTM. RBAD ATSn SONS, 

13 Faneuil Hall Square, Boston, 

80LK NEW ENGLAND AGENTS FOR i' 

COLT'S NEW BREECH LOADER. ' 

THE BEST AMEIlICAy GUN! 

Tho rfpiitatloii of tin- CoU'h Revolver Co. lor lii^hftst finality in all arms 

of their maiuifacture is a HutTicient rev^ointiieinlalion for IIiIh i;iiii. It 1b i 

of tlie favorite top-siiaj>, double-bolt action, witli latent improvement*, I 

as Iteboundin^; Lock.s, iJCr. ' 

PRICB $50.00 ILJSJ-D UFWikRDS. 

J 

Agents for W. & C. Scott &. Son's celebrated Breech '' 

Loaders. "' 

FINE TROUT AND SALMON RODS, \ 

J 
Fllen, IJiifs, and «'v«Ty tliinR In FiHhiniq: Tackle, Touri«t«' Knap- 

Ka«-ks, T«Mil«», Kiil>)M>r Blankott*, Ac, >ViiM'Ii«*Ht«T, Sharp, \ 

.'Maynard, an<l all iiiakcs of Kitles. <« 

"We now offer a lot of Sharp's Sliding-Barrel Sportin^j Hiflcs, 45 calibre. 
Central Fire. Reloadable (-'artridge. They use the same cartridge :ui i\ti 
Colt Revolver; and from the fact that the cartridge can Ik; reloadtsl, are '] 
desirable for parties going into camp. The best low-price*! Ride In the "1 
marltet, I»rlce only Sll.'J.no. 

SEND STAMP FOR C|R(WLAF^.5 j 














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WERT 

BOOKBINDING 

Crantville. Pa 

JULY . AUG 1989 



